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Smallest lightest travelli Eaa Scope?

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#26 Peter_-_

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 03:31 PM

My Travel and Portable mount is a Sky Watcher All View Mount (it can be powered with AA batteries).  I use it with a variety of DSLR Lenses, 50 mm and 60 mm Refractor Telescopes and for a camera, I use my Nikon D3400 (battery powered)  and other ZWO cams.  Also have an ASI Air to use the iPad with the ZWO cams....just an alternative path for travel...Pat Utah smile.gif

 

Hi Pat,

 

Fantastic set-up; it's pretty well the direction I'm thinking of at the moment.  It had occurred to me that camera lenses can be bought second hand quite cheaply and  are normally manufactured to a very high standard; might be  much better option than cheap guide scope with questionable optics.

 

Do you find much difference between 50mm and 60mm aperture, or are do they operate at roughly the same exposure speeds and show the same resolution of DSO's? I think i saw a Zwo dslr lens adapter that connected their cameras up to standard lenses which would make it an easy job to get everything to focus correctly.

 

Roughly how much would that Nikon 500mm lens cost?



#27 Alien Observatory

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 04:16 PM

Peter, I bought almost everything used, The mount $300 ( including shipping), Nikon 500mm $300. The AT 60 ED is a much better telescope than the SV 50mm and it is heaver than the 50mm.  The 60mm was about $50 more (used) than the 50mm (new)  and both around $300 (I sold the 50mm to buy the 60mm).

 

For the correct back spacing I use a few spacers and T adapters and of course the Nikon Lens adapter (maybe $100 for all).  If you go this route just PM me and I can give you the details of the adapters I use.  The last item I bought new was a cheap Power Inverter (Harbor Freight) that has 2 normal 120 V outlets that I use the car battery for power when needed as sometimes the AA battery option is not enough power for a multi day outing.

 

Tonight I will be using the 500mm lens, the ASI 183 mono for a little moon watching with the All View Mount as the clouds are still here...Pat Utah :)



#28 Organic Astrochemist

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 11:38 AM

This seems to be the biggest aperture lightweight finder scope I can locate which is 70mm and weighs only 1.2lbs/0.5kg, the same as the 50mm and 60mm sizes.

 

Anyone got one?

 

Orion 70mm multi-use finderscope: €105

https://www.teleskop...ts_id=7488#desc

 

 

lmKelZq.jpg

Yes I have and use my Orion 70mm and it works great. (very good point about spacers/diagonal for the camera; notice I have a long straight tube). I think it's better to connect to the T2 than use the flimsy 1.25" nosepiece.

IMG_3294.jpg

But you really need to know what you want to observe. I use mine for a portable/fast set up spectroscopy.

Here's and image taken with Star Analyzer 100, SharpCap, 4 seconds of Mizar AB and Alcor (their spectra are to the right), ASI290MM-cool, skytracker Pro mount.

Mizar AB and Alcor annotated.jpg

And here is the spectrum of Alcor processed in real time with RSpec.

alcor.png

 

I think Barbosa made a great post of M51 to give you an idea of what you might see. I think ASI290MM would be a great camera. Sensitive and small pixels so your image isn't too blocky. Note the small field of view ~1 degree. You will need a good goto and/or platesolving to get to your target. I suspect a guider will make your life easier; it did for me. I added the QHY5III178C with a cheap 35mm C-mount lens as a guider scope. M51 is unusally big and bright as galaxies go, so lower your expectations as the targets get smaller and dimmer. With only 278 mm of focal length you will never get the image scale seen in many images, but I think the fast speed, f/4, is the way to go with a portable rig.



#29 Peter_-_

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 12:38 PM

Yes I have and use my Orion 70mm and it works great. (very good point about spacers/diagonal for the camera; notice I have a long straight tube). I think it's better to connect to the T2 than use the flimsy 1.25" nosepiece.

attachicon.gif IMG_3294.jpg

But you really need to know what you want to observe. I use mine for a portable/fast set up spectroscopy.

Here's and image taken with Star Analyzer 100, SharpCap, 4 seconds of Mizar AB and Alcor (their spectra are to the right), ASI290MM-cool, skytracker Pro mount.

attachicon.gif Mizar AB and Alcor annotated.jpg

And here is the spectrum of Alcor processed in real time with RSpec.

attachicon.gif alcor.png

 

I think Barbosa made a great post of M51 to give you an idea of what you might see. I think ASI290MM would be a great camera. Sensitive and small pixels so your image isn't too blocky. Note the small field of view ~1 degree. You will need a good goto and/or platesolving to get to your target. I suspect a guider will make your life easier; it did for me. I added the QHY5III178C with a cheap 35mm C-mount lens as a guider scope. M51 is unusally big and bright as galaxies go, so lower your expectations as the targets get smaller and dimmer. With only 278 mm of focal length you will never get the image scale seen in many images, but I think the fast speed, f/4, is the way to go with a portable rig.

 

Ok, I think that would make a very good and light setup. The extra light gathering of the 70mm is worth getting by the looks of it, so I'm going to go ahead and buy the Orion. ☺

 

Using the camera T2 connector for the Zwo290, what sort of length would you recommend for the straight spacer tube to get good focus?

 

I notice there are two distinct models of the ZWO290.

 

https://www.teleskop...-1-MP-CMOS.html

 

https://www.teleskop...MOS-Camera.html

 

As a beginner I'm not able to tell which would be best for this type of finder for basic Eaa use, and whether the usb.3 version downloads the subs quicker because of the faster connectivity?



#30 Organic Astrochemist

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 02:57 PM

I think the manual says that the light path is 80 mm (check this). My tube is 75 mm so I brought the focuser out a little. I think you could also use a diagonal.

The mini won’t connect to the T2 but this one will
https://www.teleskop...-1-MP-CMOS.html

Have you decided on a mount? The sky is a very big place so you have to decide how to find your small target. I went with an all manual approach but I’m not at all sure that’s best. Maybe others can comment on the ease of alignment/goto accuracy of their small mounts.

Edited by Organic Astrochemist, 14 April 2019 - 03:03 PM.


#31 Peter_-_

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Posted 15 April 2019 - 12:19 PM

I think the manual says that the light path is 80 mm (check this). My tube is 75 mm so I brought the focuser out a little. I think you could also use a diagonal.

The mini won’t connect to the T2 but this one will
https://www.teleskop...-1-MP-CMOS.html

Have you decided on a mount? The sky is a very big place so you have to decide how to find your small target. I went with an all manual approach but I’m not at all sure that’s best. Maybe others can comment on the ease of alignment/goto accuracy of their small mounts.

 

Thanks very much for your input. ☺



#32 Organic Astrochemist

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 09:06 PM

Here's my solution to platesolving without a goto mount:

platesolve.jpg

I take an image with the 35 mm lens, platesolve with AstroTortilla which then syncs with my ASCOM telescope simulator and shows me where the telescope is pointed in Cartes du Ciel. Usually I can star hop from there using the 35 mm lens and Sharpcap.


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#33 Peter_-_

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 05:51 AM



Here's my solution to platesolving without a goto mount:

attachicon.gif platesolve.jpg

I take an image with the 35 mm lens, platesolve with AstroTortilla which then syncs with my ASCOM telescope simulator and shows me where the telescope is pointed in Cartes du Ciel. Usually I can star hop from there using the 35 mm lens and Sharpcap.

 That's a very clever idea i hadn't considered. Presumably AstroTortillo automatically interprets the stars in the photo and tells you precisely where you are pointed, then you nudge your scope towards the target and repeat: a very nice solution that's very simple to execute without the complexity of a go-to mount.

 

I have drawn out star hopping charts from my observations with small binos, but it takes a lot of time and effort to sort out the exact location of the target. The problem is that it's not immediately obvious from the star charts what groups and patterns of stars will present themselves, so you have to keep on observing and referring back to Sky safari to line everything up nicely.

 

NJuvihx.jpg

 

I was wondering what would be the longest exposure without a tracking mount before everything gets blurred and turns into a big mess? Is it possible to take 2 second photos, stack them, and see any detail of DSO's?


Edited by Peter_-_, 17 April 2019 - 05:52 AM.


#34 tgrlx200

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Posted 13 May 2019 - 12:04 AM

I read an article of somebody who had a Celestron 4SE and a ZWO 224 camera and he got better views with it than I would through the eyepiece of a 10 inch LX200GPS



#35 Howie1

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Posted 13 May 2019 - 07:55 PM

My portable lightweight rig is DSLR with standard 55-250mm zoom (f/3.6 - f/5.6) on Star Adventurer. When I go camping or travelling I normally take my laptop, DSLR and camera tripod anyway. So the only extra's I am carrying are the Star Adventurer itself which is small and not too heavy. While the images are the end of some stacking, I enjoy the fact that after just the first 30, 60 or 90 second frame there is enough detail and colors n stuff for surrounding travelers watching on to get a good thrill. Actually they are usually amazed such a simple setup can get such objects! But while talking to folk and enjoying their company or reveling in the evening cool and views, I usually let 6 to 9 frames stack .... sometimes more. Not really short EAA but for me works a treat. 

Lightweight rig fully portable
Lightweight fully portable rig setup
m20 m21 m8 m24 iso6400 secs90 x 9 frames ScreenGrab
rho ophiuchi ISO3200 secs30 x 6 frames ScreenGrab
Milky Way 55mm ISO3200 secs30 x 9 frames ScreenGrab

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#36 Howie1

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Posted 13 May 2019 - 08:06 PM

Forgot to put the tech details ... image of m20,m21, m8, m24 was lens set to 250mm f/5.6, with camera ISO6400, 9 frames of 90 seconds.

Image of Rho Ochiuchi was lens set to 55mm f/5.6, with camera ISO3200, 6 frames of 30 seconds.

Image of Milky Way was lens set to 55mm f/5.6 (I think it was - maybe I swapped it for the 18mm-55mm lens - can't recall), with camera again at ISO3200 for 9 thirty second frames. 

 

Don't forget when camping n stuff it's usually Bortle 4 or even better skies. They aren't LP backyard shots. But they do illustrate how very simple and inexpensive EAA can be. I already owned the DSLR (2nd hand with two zoom lens for $500), the laptop ($400 second hand) and tripod ($30 second hand) all of which are used for normal daytime shots. The only expense to do the EAA side of things was the Star Adventurer ($550 brand new) and about $20 for some aluminium and Office supplies photocopying and laminating to make a DEC setting circle (I use the Adventurer's) back polar month circle doubled in order to make it works to find stuff in RA using SkySafari's Hour Angle. 

 

Cheers



#37 Rickster

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Posted 14 May 2019 - 02:04 PM

Excellent Howie.  Amazing what beauty can be captured with an ordinary DSLR and a light weight mount.  I am sure that the fellow travelers appreciated the introduction to their night sky. 


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#38 39.1N84.5W

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Posted 18 May 2019 - 12:59 AM

I've used a lodestar mono (and ultrastar mono) with a 50mm f3.2 finderscope. If you can afford it I'd strongly recommend getting the ultrastar over the lodestar.
Either way you should also get a 5nm or 7nm h-alpha 1.25" filter. This (along with a c-mount threaded adapter) will greatly open up your observing schedule. Narrowband targets like north American nebula etc. are perfect with this wide field setup... and in heavy light pollution including a bright moon.
Personally I use the Orion 7nm but there are probably others for less money.


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