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Cleaner Stars - How to install an aperture mask on your Newtonian

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#1 pbkoden

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 04:39 PM

Here is a simple inexpensive way to greatly improve the diffraction artifacts around bright stars in your images. Here is the before and after effect both looking into the focuser drawtube, and what the resultant images look like:

 

 

cLa2r1u.jpg

 

 

The ideal primary mirror would have a perfect circular edge profile. But the edges of your primary mirror are not perfect. They diffract light and cause diffraction spikes/rays to extend from the core of bright stars in all directions. In addition, the three mirror clips that overlap the edges of the primary will cause gaps in these spikes where they mask the edges of the primary. The combination is a a bright area of diffraction spikes with three dark lobes in it. The trick to fixing this is to mask the entire edge of the primary mirror, including the mirror clips. This reduces the diffraction effect, and creates a nice even halo around the star core. Here is how to do it.

 

Here is what you will need:

  • Material to cut a masking ring out of and a template to cut to
  • Hobby knife to cut the material
  • Flat black paint or flocking material
  • Double-sided foam tape

The first thing you will need to do is cut out a masking ring. The outside diameter of the ring should be small enough to fit inside your tube easily, but larger than the outside of your mirror. The inside diameter of the ring should as large as possible, while being just small enough to cover the mirror clips when centered over the primary mirror. You can take measurements and then use a free tool like Sketchup or LibreCAD to create a 1:1 print with your inner and out diameters to use as a cutting template. 

 

The mask can be cut from just about any material. I originally hand cut one from black art matting board which worked great for over a year. Eventually it sagged and lost its shape some, so now I am replacing it with a 1/16" thick aluminum water-jet cut ring from an online metal cutting service (metalscut4u.com). The service was very easy to use, their online form includes a ring shape and all you need to do is select it and then type in your ID and OD to get an instant cost on a multitude of materials.

 

 

iMxRPvU.jpg

 

 

If you cut your ring out of something reflective or lightly colored, you will need to paint or flock it to prevent unwanted reflections from entering the light path. In my case I will flock my ring front and back.

 

Once the mask is dark and flat, adhere it to your mirror clips with double sided foam tape, being sure to center it over the primary mirror. In my case, I've removed the flocking from the areas where the tape needs to make contact so I get good adhesion. 

 

 

zAoaTTb.jpg

 

 

L5woKIu.jpg

 

 

And that is all there really is to it. The only downside is that you do lose some mirror area, reducing your effective focal ratio by a practically unnoticeable amount.

 

 

 


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#2 J A VOLK

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 05:08 PM

Worked well - guessing the biggest effect removed was from the mirror clips and possibly the end of the spider arms. I've seen a method where you put little caps on the clips that are like the truncated part of a circle to eliminate spikes. I made a similar mask for a 10" mirror I made that had a great optical figure, but a very narrow turned edge.

Edited by J A VOLK, 07 April 2019 - 05:09 PM.

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#3 Jon Rista

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 06:58 PM

It isn't just cleaner stars. It clearly helps contrast as well, as all that extra scattered light gets strewn all around the stars in a non-uniform manner and that hurts contrast of background details around said stars.


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#4 calypsob

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 06:09 PM

Ha, awesome I have spent the past 2 days trying to decide if I should print a mask or have one cut. Im going to give your suggested link a try, thanks.

#5 Jon Rista

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 06:32 PM

Just curious, is there no other way to hold a newt primary so that the clips don't obscure the path?



#6 calypsob

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 06:43 PM

Just curious, is there no other way to hold a newt primary so that the clips don't obscure the path?

 

They shouldnt be touching the mirror, technically they are just a fail safe to prevent the primary from falling out in transit. Some people will put a shim between the primary clip/mirror and fill the void with silicone and then remove the shims, this prevents astigmatism and lets you ditch the clips, kinda sketchy though imo. One of my primaries has silicone tipped screws that grab the mirror but it still uses clips as a fail safe. They are hard to avoid unless you go with a conical mirror which has no clips or you can get a turned edge beveled mirror where the clips do not cover any reflective surface.


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#7 calypsob

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 07:31 AM

This guy btw can do a CNC wood aperture mask for a lower price than the metal one. https://www.ebay.com...=p2047675.l2559  Just try to limit the obstruction to .125" if possible

 

Im still making up my mind, it would be kind of cool to remove the clips and trace and drill the ring so that it bolts down in place of the clips.



#8 rkayakr

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 08:40 AM

I have a mak-newt that already blocks incoming light around the corrector perimeter. I wonder if a mask at the primary mirror will make any difference?



#9 RaulTheRat

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 10:47 PM

I have a mak-newt that already blocks incoming light around the corrector perimeter. I wonder if a mask at the primary mirror will make any difference?


I've not accurately calculated, but I do plan to mask my own 190mn like this shortly, since my intuition is that off-axis rays will still make it to the mirror edges - on mine the primary is 200mm, and the front aperture 190mm, but even a degree off-axis, over a 60cm tube (and it's actually longer than that) a star one degree off-axis should be able to illuminate part of the mirror 1cm displaced from the aperture (using the 1 in 60 rule) - so I'm pretty sure the mirror clip area and mirror edge are being illuminated.

#10 elmiko

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 11:52 PM

I did the same thing with my Orion imaging Newtonian 8 inch f 3.9. I made mine out of 1/4 foam board . Drew the inner and outer circles using a compass. Then cut them using a Dremel tool. Then mounted it using one of the mirror clip screws on each mirror clip. Really improve my images! Mike


Edited by elmiko, 14 April 2019 - 11:52 PM.

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#11 betelgeuse91

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Posted 15 April 2019 - 09:21 AM

Why can't every imaging Newtonian come with the mask... Everyone wants this!


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#12 ribuck

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Posted 13 April 2020 - 03:26 PM

Lacerta scopes come with a mask pre-installed mask - they take the Skywatcher Scopes - replace the tube and focuser, flock the tube, and install a mask on the primary 

 

They sell the masks on their website for 8" & 10" mirrors



#13 calypsob

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Posted 13 April 2020 - 07:35 PM

I ended up silicone gluing my 6” into place. You determine where to place the blobs, put in spacers, set in the mirror. When the silicone dries remove the spacers. Now you can remove the mirror clips. No need to mask.
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#14 ribuck

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Posted 14 April 2020 - 02:10 AM

Hi Wes,

 

I'm afraid i'm not as brave as you.  I'd worry about the glue failing



#15 calypsob

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Posted 14 April 2020 - 06:22 AM

Hi Wes,

I'm afraid i'm not as brave as you. I'd worry about the glue failing

Yea I mean my scope was not very expensive so im not too worried. I do store it upright, but honestly you need a piece of piano wire to remove the silicone. Also note that When its on the mount its always pointing up. I dont think I would glue in something larger than a 6 without an excellent mirror support because you may start to introduce an astigmatism. You need to spend a while reading about the plop methods if you go that route.

Edited by calypsob, 14 April 2020 - 06:24 AM.


#16 ribuck

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Posted 14 April 2020 - 06:53 AM

I think I might just get a pre-made mask that can be removed if needed and try it for myself and see how i get on.

 

Cheers,

Rich.



#17 Randy Dunton

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Posted 11 November 2020 - 10:58 PM

thanks for posting. I bought a new Explore Scientific Newt 8" F4 and was having really ugly spikes (like a fan) on 180 degrees off of bright stars (e.g. Vega) in addition to the spider vanes. I created a mask (using masking tape) on the front lip of the tube and the mask removed the artifacts ! Not sure if the manufacturer will send a fix. I have researched this further and found that SkyWatcher has 9 of these masks factory preinstalled, spaced apart near the primary mirror, that seems the way to go.

Obviously the mask needs to be a perfect circle, the masking tape was just a test. I am surprised that some scopes do not have these installed.

Attached Thumbnails

  • artifact 1.jpg
  • artifact with baffle around edge.jpg
  • baffle 360 deg.jpg

Edited by Randy Dunton, 11 November 2020 - 11:32 PM.

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#18 unimatrix0

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Posted 07 December 2021 - 01:23 PM

I can further simplify this, although I'm not done and haven't installed it yet.   This comes from having me install speakers and subwoofers in my cars and always added some extra foam around the circumference of the speakers. 

 

Get a black strip of foam, I cut it off from a large-square foam piece- thick enough to cover those 3 notches that hold the mirror, it's better if it's slightly thicker.  

 

 

 

The length needs to be  the circumference of your mirror's diameter (duh). 

 

Assume it's a 6" reflector ~ 15.4 centimeters diameter although making it a tiny bit longer doesn't hurt (it's foam so you can manipulate it a bit) . 

 

To calculate circumference, let's get elementary: 
 

C = 2 × π × r

C = 2 × π × 7.7 = 48.3cm ~ 19.01 inches

 

The rest is just gluing it.  Put adhesive or double sided tape on the 3 clips, and then glue the foam strip ends together.  Voila!  Bada bimm bada boom! 
No weight; no drawing or cutting perfect circles, your piece of foam strip will be circle-enough ; easy to remove or replace . 

 

Here is another tip.  The best tool to cut foam is not a box cutter knife or scissors . It's the bread cutting electric knife. It cuts whatever foam beautifully, I do it all the time, because I do shipping at work and cut foams to shape sometimes, I couldn't exist without it. 
 

I'm doing this for a 6" reflector so the clips aren't too big so i don't need thicker foam. 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_0955.jpg
  • IMG_0956.jpg

Edited by unimatrix0, 07 December 2021 - 01:31 PM.

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#19 TelescopeGreg

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Posted 07 December 2021 - 02:37 PM

I can further simplify this, although I'm not done and haven't installed it yet.   This comes from having me install speakers and subwoofers in my cars and always added some extra foam around the circumference of the speakers. 

 

Get a black strip of foam, I cut it off from a large-square foam piece- thick enough to cover those 3 notches that hold the mirror, it's better if it's slightly thicker. 

Ah!  Brilliant!

 

I had assumed the mask needed to be at the tail of the scope (immediately in front of the mirror), and couldn't figure out how I'd stick something down there without disassembling the works or risk damaging the mirror.  Putting it at the top is perfect.

 

I expect one might even find some foam weather stripping that can work, complete with an adhesive backing.



#20 unimatrix0

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Posted 07 December 2021 - 03:39 PM

Ah!  Brilliant!

 

I had assumed the mask needed to be at the tail of the scope (immediately in front of the mirror), and couldn't figure out how I'd stick something down there without disassembling the works or risk damaging the mirror.  Putting it at the top is perfect.

 

I expect one might even find some foam weather stripping that can work, complete with an adhesive backing.

Well, I meant to be put on the top of those 3 notches holding the primary mirror, but you can probably try putting black weather strip around the front-top edge , just before the secondary mirror at the opening. I don't know. 
My understanding was that the mirror holding notches causing some spikes, but who knows if the front end is narrowed down works as well.

It's not hard to remove these primary mirrors, I accidentally removed it from mine when I un-twisted all the adjusting screws and tightener screws , it comes right out as one unit held in a frame, easily. Just don't drop it, that's the end of it. At least that's how my cheapo-Orion reflector is made of. 


Edited by unimatrix0, 07 December 2021 - 03:43 PM.


#21 17.5Dob

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Posted 07 December 2021 - 04:00 PM

Nice to see this old thread resurrected...I have done the exact same thing with my Newt,as well as cutting 5/8" of the focuser drawtube that was intruding into the light path as well.

And removing the mirror in it's cell is just a matter of taking out a few small screws. I know some manufacturers are now sending out scopes with preinstalled masks.

#22 TelescopeGreg

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Posted 07 December 2021 - 06:20 PM

Well, I meant to be put on the top of those 3 notches holding the primary mirror, but you can probably try putting black weather strip around the front-top edge , just before the secondary mirror at the opening. I don't know. 
My understanding was that the mirror holding notches causing some spikes, but who knows if the front end is narrowed down works as well.

It's not hard to remove these primary mirrors, I accidentally removed it from mine when I un-twisted all the adjusting screws and tightener screws , it comes right out as one unit held in a frame, easily. Just don't drop it, that's the end of it. At least that's how my cheapo-Orion reflector is made of. 

Seeing the example of using tape at the top of the scope started my mental leap that your foam was similarly positioned, but that was definitely a leap.  Thanks for clarifying.

 

My imaging now is all with the 5" refractor, and I have little desire to put yet more time and money into the Newt for additional imaging time.  Poking stuff down the tube is scary enough, and removing the mirror altogether is well beyond that.  Given the other construction shortcuts Celestron has taken, I wouldn't want to risk it.  I think it's fine as-is for casual visual use.  It would need a significantly upgraded mount, for one thing, and if I invest that much in the mount, it's not going to be used with the entry level OTA.  The other components just aren't that good.  And I can create the diffraction spikes, if they're desired for a particular image, with a couple of wires and some tape on the end of the refractor.

 

I may turn the Newt into a Dob for visual use at Outreach events, if I can figure out a simple way to build such a base.



#23 unimatrix0

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Posted 24 June 2022 - 04:19 PM

Just an update on this. I removed mine, because i was troubleshooting some collimation issues, but certainly it wasn't the aperture ring causing anything. (hint: it cannot, unless its all over the place). I'm gonna 3D print a new aperture ring using flat-black PLA. 

 

BTW, if anyone has doubts using PLA, due to its characteristics regarding temperature, my previous ring was on my Newt for over 5 months now in all sort of temperatures and it was fine. I would not use PTEG though, it's too shiny even if the material is called flat. The other option would be ABS i guess. 

 

I have a small 3D printer so the whole ring won't fit on the bed, so I make it from 2 halves and when i put it on the mirror holding clips they nicely make a full circle , no problems. 


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#24 tombkk

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Posted 29 November 2022 - 12:00 AM

Just an update on this. I removed mine, because i was troubleshooting some collimation issues, but certainly it wasn't the aperture ring causing anything. (hint: it cannot, unless its all over the place). I'm gonna 3D print a new aperture ring using flat-black PLA. 

 

BTW, if anyone has doubts using PLA, due to its characteristics regarding temperature, my previous ring was on my Newt for over 5 months now in all sort of temperatures and it was fine. I would not use PTEG though, it's too shiny even if the material is called flat. The other option would be ABS i guess. 

 

I have a small 3D printer so the whole ring won't fit on the bed, so I make it from 2 halves and when i put it on the mirror holding clips they nicely make a full circle , no problems. 

 

I printed mine from black ABS plastic for GSO 200mm f/4 imaging newtonian OTA. The inner/outer dimention of the mask ring is 192/224 mm, just enough to hide the three clips and the outer edge of the mirror. The mask ring is 3mm thick with three 2 x holes to allow installing on top of the original rubber spacers on mirror edge. The mask and mirror are then retained by the original three metal mounting plates and original screws. One drawback of using aperture mask is the aperture is reduced to 192mm, making slower aperture of f/4.2. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Apergure Mask.jpg

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#25 Tom62e

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Posted 18 December 2022 - 03:08 PM

I used the same mask as tombkk (I printed it using PTEG) and have had excellent results.  Didn't really notice a change in data acquisition speed but it is something to consider.




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