Learn to use a polar scope. ASPA and equivalent software routines have their place, but apparently do not do any better than a polar scope does. The polar scope is fast and easy once you learn to use it. It is also quite accurate enough tof 1-minute subs at 800mm focal length.
Get the polar scope and one of the many free smartphone apps (I use PolarisView) that tell you where Polaris should be on the circle. Mechanically put Polaris in that spot, and you have your polar alignment done. Don't bother with trying to interpret where the constellations are in the polar scope's reticule. That's pretty much useless. I often have to remove (unscrew) the polar scope in order to get the mount aimed close enough to have it with the scope's field of view, then put it back in and go from there.
Once the mount is polar aligned, I do a "quick align" on the hand controller after verifying the date and time. There's a menu item to enable the realtime clock; the default from the factory is OFF. Doing the quick align starts the rotisserie running, so you're not fighting moving stars during the star alignment. Makes things a lot less stressful!
Then I pick a bright star about half way up in the sky and halfway back on, say, the west side of the scope, and use a sky mapping app (I use SkEye on the phone) to figure out (or verify my guess) what star it is. Tell the hand controller to go there, and then use the hand controller arrow keys to put that star dead center in the middle of the eyepiece. I use a "reticule eyepiece", but using the DSLR's Live View can work too. I also have a much better time getting the chosen star to be within the field of view of the eyepiece by using a Telrad finder (easier than using the magnifying one that comes with the scope) to get the scope close first. The keys Motor Speed, 7 put the scope in a high rate to get it there, then Motor Speed, 4 to fine tune it within the eyepiece. When it's centered, push Back a few times to get back to the main menu, then Align, Enter, Enter, and Align (I think that's the sequence) to capture that star as an Alignment star. Do the same procedure with another star on the other side (east, in this example). Now do it again for a 3rd star (you can be on the same side as the last alignment star), but this time instead of Align and enter, push Align, then the Scroll Down (9) key to select Calibration instead of Alignment, and follow that through. Then flip back over to the other side and do it again for a second calibration star. That usually gets the scope calibrated well enough that an arbitrary GoTo operation will put your target pretty close to center of the eyepiece.
That last section was a big mystery to me initially, as folks were telling me to "do a 3- or 4-star alignment", but only two alignment stars are allowed. The others aren't alignment stars, but calibration stars. Sheesh...
Now, if you've done all this with some precision, you're all set to go. You can add two more calibration stars if you want. I sometimes do that with a star near my target, just for a little more precision if the target is one I can't see exactly in the eyepiece or in a quick image with the camera. I usually use that last calibration star with a Bahtinov mask to focus the camera, then slew to the target and start snapping images.