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"New" Binocular Acquisition - Hoya 10X50 #36036

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#1 Rustler46

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Posted 13 May 2019 - 08:44 PM

A dear friend of mine just gave me a nice pair of Hoya 10X50  binoculars. These are the older style with flat metal end plates on the prism housing. On the end plates it says:

 

  • Left side:
    Hoya 
    COATED OPTICS
  • Right side:
    10X50
    Field 5°
    No. 36036

My own 7X50 binoculars (ca 1964, see description in my signature block) look like the same design, but have a 7.1° FOV. I assume the 10X50 will show certain astronomical objects better than the 7X50s. The "new" binoculars will be a nice pair to mount on my binocular chair.

 

Is anything known about the quality of such a binocular? This may be the same Hoya that makes optical filters. When were they produced? Coments? 

 

Here's a photo.

 

Hoya 10X50-01431.jpg


Edited by Rustler46, 14 May 2019 - 07:38 PM.

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#2 Mark9473

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 01:16 PM

They look just like the '70s Zenith that I borrowed from my dad.

Check if there's a JB number near the front of the hinge, that will tell you who made them.


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#3 Rustler46

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 02:59 PM

They look just like the '70s Zenith that I borrowed from my dad.

Check if there's a JB number near the front of the hinge, that will tell you who made them.

Thanks for the feedback, Mark9473. I looked on the binoculars for other markings besides those in my original post. There are a few:

  1. Manufacturing inspection sticker on center post - "PASSED  Japan Telescope Inspection Institute"
  2. End of center post, plate held on by Philips screw - JAPAN
  3. Front saddles hinged on center post:
    Left - [check symbol - looks like square-root sign]-B81
    Right - [check symbol - looks like square-root sign]-E54

I wonder if the marks at #3 are manufacturer's part numbers.

 

I had an opportunity to try viewing the Moon and Jupiter a few nights ago. Then I discovered the binocs were out of collimation. The misalignment was perhaps 3/4° in horizontal and 1/2° vertical. With considerable effort my eyes could merge the images. But I'll need to get collimation adjusted before much further use. Since the left and right prism cases have a flat plate held on with screws, it looks easy to gain access for prism adjustments. The eyepieces will need to come off first. So I'll likely try to do the job myself.

 

Seems like I saw some instructions (by Glenn LeDrew?) on this forum on how to proceed. If successful, I may then try collimating my 15X80 binocs. For now the 10X50s seem similar in construction to my 7X50s from the mid 1960s (see info under my signature). Seibert Optics can do the job for around $100 each plus shipping. For that I'll likely see if they can be collimated by myself, leaving more funds available for other necessary purchases.

 

Best Regards,

Russ



#4 Mark9473

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 03:28 PM

Somebody more knowledgeable will come along and help you with those manufacturer codes, I hope. Or you could google.
Regarding collimation, the first thing to check with that body type is that both objective barrels are correctly screwed into the main body. Sometimes people look inside and then mis-thread upon reassembly.
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#5 Rich V.

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 06:18 PM

Russ, after checking the threading of the barrels as Mark suggests, perhaps you should take a look and see if the objective lenses have rotating eccentric cells under a lock ring.  Many older designs use this eccentric collimation convention rather than prism tilt screws.  It might save you having to open up the binos at all.

 

Rich

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  • eccentric.jpg

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#6 Rustler46

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Posted 21 May 2019 - 06:47 PM

Russ, after checking the threading of the barrels as Mark suggests, perhaps you should take a look and see if the objective lenses have rotating eccentric cells under a lock ring.  Many older designs use this eccentric collimation convention rather than prism tilt screws.  It might save you having to open up the binos at all.

 

Rich

Thanks so much, Rich! If any my 4 binoculars has that feature, it will be most useful. I'll take a look at the 10X50s this evening to see what's up. Even if I can eliminated the vertical offset, the horizontal offset isn't so hard for one's eyes to compensate for. Of course it's best to get it right in both directions. After collimation I'm looking forward to using the 10X50s on my iPad-assisted Binocular chair. The only problem is that I'll need to decide whether to use the binocular-chair or set up the C-11 with my new WO binoviewers. It's nice that either choice is a win.

 

Edit:

Alas, neither objective lens has the eccentric rings for adjusting collimation. So I'll need to figure out how to get into the prism boxes. I think my binocular-chair thread above has some comments about that by Glenn LeDrew.

 

Best Regards,

Russ


Edited by Rustler46, 22 May 2019 - 01:25 AM.



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