My concern would be that these would be that the Quark can stop tuning once the temps get above about 85 degrees.
The chromasphere model will still show Proms, but at 90 degrees, mine completely quit tuning.
You know you are not tuning when the green light does not fully illuminate. Now that does not mean the Quark won't still work, but it does mean that you may not get tight enough band pass to show much surface detail.
I had thought that is was just the effect of using such high power, but in the end, I learned that the Quark really does not handle heat well. I have read numerous reports of people saying that their Quark green light does not come on when tuning, and Daystar even says that this means that the temp is too high for the quark to work fully well. Emphasis added by me...
If after 20 minutes of the same knob position setting the LED has not
turned green, the ambient temperature may be too hot or too cold for the Quark
to regulate the temperature. However, the filter may still be usable while slightly
mistuned and performance may not be affected.
This is a quote from Daystar Manual and while the use the word "may still be usable" but in my book that means "may not show you surface features with much detail." That was my experience. At 85 degrees, the Quark would stop giving green, but sometime would show some surface detail, but at 90 degrees, surface detail was poor... Maybe it was my sample, but I know I read over and over that people say that their Quark does not turn green and maybe they still got good surface detail, but at 90, I could only really use it for prominences. (To be fair, it really did give excellent views of Proms, but so does my Lunt 80).
My Lunt 80 works at 95 degrees as well as it works at 50. I can see more surface detail in it than I ever saw in the Quark and it is only single stacked. I live in a hot environment, and maybe I am the exception, but I would suggest that anyone that lives and regularly observes at 90 or above to look to a standard etalon design. These are temp stable even at 100. I did a lot of research after the fact and found numerous cases where people said that they were not getting full green, and Quark is telling us right in the user's manual that this may mean that you are out of band, and again, my experience was that I was way out of band when it got over 90.
I also of course get full disk and with binoviewers using zoom eyepieces, which was impossible with a similar sized scope using the Quark at f/30. Since the standard zoom is 24mm at shortest focal length, you really can't get anything close to full disk. You can use a faster focal lenght scope, but now you loose the ability to tune as tight as with an f/7 or f/8 scope.
Edited by Eddgie, 28 July 2019 - 05:31 PM.