How to avoid splinters, chips, and rough edges on wood parts
Sharp cutting tools are everything if you want clean cuts.
Modern carbide tooling has revolutionized woodworking (and metal and plastic working, too)
However, not all carbide is created equal, and even carbide gets dull.
There are pretty much three levels of carbide tooling, the Chinesium stuff, the tradesperson/light industrial variety, and the pro-grade stuff.
for single/occasional use, the Chinese cutters available everywhere work OK, but for any sort of reliability, better to step up to the trade-grade cutters - those offered by the tool-makers, Makita, Dewalt, etc, fit here, as do the cutters made by Freud, which are also available in the big-box stores and lumber yards. The high-end stuff is mostly specialty retailers, but it lasts the best.
A mid-grade fine-tooth blade for a table-saw will cut cleanly for maybe an hour of use cutting Baltic Birch, perhaps two hours cutting lumberyard birch ply or MDF board, longer if cutting hardwoods. After that, it's time to pass it on to less exacting tasks, or send it out for resharpening.
Router cutters, being small and operating at high speed, have a shorter life than we would hope, a mid-grade cutter making parts in Baltic Birch is only splinter-free for maybe 15 minutes of use, and half-hour in other sheet stock.... Router cutters are not normally re-sharpenable.
Drill bits are the same story, it doesn't take long for a bit to lose its edge slightly, especially if you are drilling steel with it sometimes. A carbide forstener bit will hold up pretty well, but watch for increased pressure to drill, and more splintering. There is pretty much no way to sharpen forsteners or brad-points, regular bits - if you use them a lot, might be worth buying a 'drill-doctor' type sharpener.
Band saw blades, same story..... they get splintery fast in high-glue sheetstock like baltic birch, you just have to watch, and change them out when it starts looking ragged.
Hand tools, planes and chisels and the like, want to be sharp enough to shave the hairs off the back of your hand to work right. Fortunately, they are easy to sharpen, though it takes practice, and one of the many jigs available does a lot to produce good results. Planer and jointer knives..... not quite shaving grade, but when you can feel any irregularities on the cutting edge, or start to see little lines on the work, or pullout on uneven grain, time to devote an hour or two to sharpening or replacing them.
Most mid-size cities have sharpening services that will do sawblades and knives, some will do plane irons, a few will do router cutters and shaper cutters.
As always, your mileage may vary, but.... the stuff you inherited from your Dad..... or bought back in college..... best to let it pass on to the happy hunting grounds.