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CPC 800 power connection

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#1 twjs

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Posted 18 July 2019 - 07:45 PM

Sorry to start another power thread but I can't find the older thread that I resurrected. As many of you know the power connection on the CPC 800 is wonky at best. I have the Power Tank 17 and it appears to be fitted with a screw thread but it doesn't work at all. Any of youse guys have a proper fix for this?



#2 carolinaskies

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 05:32 AM

Not sure whether your referencing the issue of power plugs coming out or of inconsistent power of the mount. 

If it's the latter check out this thread... 

https://www.cloudyni...er#entry7517868



#3 twjs

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 08:51 AM

Not sure whether your referencing the issue of power plugs coming out or of inconsistent power of the mount. 

If it's the latter check out this thread... 

https://www.cloudyni...er#entry7517868

thank but it's the insecure physical connecton.



#4 macdonjh

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 01:09 PM

I had an Orion Sirius that had a wonky power connection.  The socket on the mount's panel had worn and didn't hold that barrel connector well.  I finally go sick of it.  I took the panel out, desoldered the socket and installed a short pig tail with a simple RCA connector.  I polarity tested it and put the mount back together when the polarity test was good (reverse polarity can fry a SynScan mount).  Never had an accidental power disconnect after that.  You can use any, more secure, connector you want with a pig tail: XLR, Anderson Power Pole, etc.

 

I'll have a photo when I get home...



#5 twjs

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 05:02 PM

I had an Orion Sirius that had a wonky power connection.  The socket on the mount's panel had worn and didn't hold that barrel connector well.  I finally go sick of it.  I took the panel out, desoldered the socket and installed a short pig tail with a simple RCA connector.  I polarity tested it and put the mount back together when the polarity test was good (reverse polarity can fry a SynScan mount).  Never had an accidental power disconnect after that.  You can use any, more secure, connector you want with a pig tail: XLR, Anderson Power Pole, etc.

 

I'll have a photo when I get home...

sweet!



#6 carolinaskies

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 06:12 PM

There are a few approaches to updating the power connector.  

The OEM connector problem usually is related to the central pin in the port. The pin is actually split and when the two halves get jammed together sometimes the connection will become intermittent.  The short term fix is to take a thin blade and force the pin apart.  

Alternately you can replace the port with your choice of coupler.  As stated above you can simply unsolder the existing wire from the port and put the connector of choice in it's place.  If you use an external pigtail connector remember to seal up the hole so that moisture doesn't creep inside the mount. 

You can opt for a screw together connector like... https://www.amazon.c...d/dp/B075D52YXF
This would fit in place of the original 
 

You can opt for a power pole connector or other pigtail wire as I said above.  Anderson Power Pole is one, but personally I'd opt for a rubberized connector available most anywhere ...  https://www.allelect...or-14awg/1.html



#7 Migwan

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 08:13 PM

The split pin center conductor is definitely problematic.  I found a right angle male connector off an old power supply and spliced that into my power wiring.  I have not lost connection since  (1.5 yrs).   For awhile I taped the wire to the deck so it wouldn't get pulled on, but don't even do that any more. 

 

jd


Edited by Migwan, 19 July 2019 - 08:14 PM.


#8 twjs

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Posted 19 July 2019 - 08:31 PM

The split pin center conductor is definitely problematic.  I found a right angle male connector off an old power supply and spliced that into my power wiring.  I have not lost connection since  (1.5 yrs).   For awhile I taped the wire to the deck so it wouldn't get pulled on, but don't even do that any more. 

 

jd

yeah I thought of that and will do so in the interim. I'm not the most confident guy when it comes to cracking open expensive instruments, but I'll look at those bits mentioned.

 

Thanks!


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#9 carolinaskies

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Posted 20 July 2019 - 02:48 PM

There are 4 or so screws which old the base cover in place.  Once you remove them you'll need to carefully and slowly pry the cover up, often it has an interference fit around the fork arms so it will take a little pressure prying up to pop the cover over them.  The cover will have the bread boards and attaching cords attached of course so go slow once you have the cover popped up a bit.  It will come through the forks toward the side the ports are located on the board.  You can then flip the cover over and see every connector.  

The underside of the top panel once you remove it will look similar to the following.  My CPC1100 is c2004 so a newer version may be a bit different.  

CPC1100_repair_ (3) (640x360).jpg

I made up a new power port simply by clipping off the old wire and soldering on the new port.  Whether you opt to put a new port in or a pigtail connector to stick through the hole the process is the same.  

CPC1100_repair_power (2).jpg

 




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