I got an RI2 last year bundled with a Celestron Evolution 8 telescope I purchased. Other dealers were bundling the scope with Celestron eyepiece kits that I really wasn't interested in, but Orange County Telescopes bundled it with the RI2. I was intrigued by the ideal of EAA, especially with the chance of getting my feet wet essentially for free. The RI2 comes bundled with a small low resolution monitor, all the cables, a battery, and a 0.5x focal reducer. I ended up getting the USB screen grabber to hook it to my laptop and never used the included monitor. I used it with Sharpcap on the laptop for live stacking of images rather than the limited "stacking" that can be done by the camera hooked to its own monitor.
Based on my use of this system for nearly a year, I agree with the consensus above. Although the RI2 is advertised as a complete package, implying you need a whole bunch of extra stuff if you buy a different camera, that implication is a bit misleading. If you already have a laptop that you will be using with the camera as well as a .63x focal reducer, that's about all you'll really need as "extras" for most other camera purchases. After a year of getting my feet wet with the RI2, I bought an ASI 294MC Pro. Since this is a cooled camera, I did have to buy a separate battery (a Celestron Lithium Power Pack) in order to run the cooler. Like you, I already had a 0.63x focal reducer, otherwise, that can potentially be an additional purchase. I also had a Celestron camera T-adapter, with I can use to directly mount the camera to the focal reducer instead of using the 1.25" adapter supplied with the camera that makes it so you mount the camera just like you would any 1.25" eyepiece. I also purchased some additional spacers to ensure I had the right back focus distance between the reducer and the camera.
Although the RI2 comes with all the necessary cables, the cabling needed is much more extensive than the single USB cable I now use with my CMOS camera. I ended up zip-tying the RI2 cables in several places for cable management and to prevent too much strain on the connector. Fiddling with the RI2 camera menus to adjust gain and exposure is a bit of a pain as you have to bring up a separate menu, then work your way through the menus to make the changes. If you forget to close the menu after getting the setting right, then take a snapshot in Sharpcap, well you get a picture of your menu instead of the object you intended to image. In contrast, ZWO camera menus are integrated into SharpCap, which makes things much much easier.
As has been mentioned, you will have a very limited field of view with the RI2, even with the .5x reducer. I think I stacked the .63x and .5x reducers at times, which improved things somewhat, but still had a limited FOV. The limited FOV and lengthy process to change gain and exposure made it more difficult for SharpCap to find alignment stars for live stacking. Also, the limited FOV was fine for small objects, but would only show portions of larger objects (even the full Moon is too large). With the longer focal length of your CPC 1100, the FOV issues will be even worse. Now, if you are intending to use it primarily for planets, it would be fine.
One other thing about the RI2 menus -- the gain and exposure settings are expressed in a way that it is not intuitively obvious once you get slower than 1/50 of a second exposure. Also, the increments between allowable exposure settings are larger than for the CMOS cameras that can be controlled via SharpCap.
I don't know where you got the idea you might need a guide camera, auto-focus, auto-align, or wedge if you went with a different camera, but the "need" for these is no different than for the RI2. If you a doing short sub-exposures (like 30 seconds or less) and fairly short exposure times (those associated with EAA rather than all-out astrophotography/imaging, your alt-azimuth mount with no guiding should be fine. I generally do sub-exposures up to 30 seconds and no more than 15 minutes total imaging time (although it would be possible to go a bit longer) with my Evolution 8 alt-azimuth mount coupled with a CMOS camera and SharpCap live stacking. It doesn't take me more than 10 minutes to manually align using Celeston's CPWI, but as Dave said, a lot of people like StarSense. I will probably end up getting the Celestron motorized focuser when the 2nd gen version comes out and when CPWI/SharpCap seamlessly connect to it, but for now I am fine with manual focusing. I do use a Bahtinov mask for focusing, which I recommend you look into no matter what camera you end up with.