If the FirstLight Twilight Nano manual mount is all you have then you are out of luck most likely. The more magnification you have the faster the Moon will move across the FOV and the shorter the exposure you can use to try and freeze the frame. Shooting video might work better but I am not an expert on video. Even an Alt-Az go-to mount would be better as the effect of field rotation is much less than the effect of no tracking at all.
I think I talked to you here previously as I see that you are not that far geographically from me. I would consider donating an Alt-Az go-to mount from my collection to you as I have a number of them I bought for a project (Nexstar 80 GT, SLT) that is over and I don't feel they are worth enough to ship to someone on a sale. I just need to check if the SLT has a Vixen rail plate-holder which is what I think you need. A bigger mount would be better but I don't have anything in-between I could give you.
My first Lunar images were done in the early 60's in high school with my Criterion RV-6 Dynascope Newtonian. B&W Film and a Praktica SLR which my father processed himself in our bathroom. I experimented with prime, afocal, and eyepiece-projection photography at the telescope. This came with a clock drive so it could track things in a basic sort of way.
Looking at your gallery I see some things that worked for you. At night there is something called the Looney 11 Rule. Its related to the photographers Sunny 16 Rule, except is is for night time and applies to lunar photography. Camera and/or scope at F11 and speed the reciprocal of the ASA of the film or ISO of the digital camera. If the telescope is around F11 then you can do prime photography using shutter speeds of like 1/100 to 1/400 depending on where you set the camera's ISO 100-400.
As far as I know, all Lunar imaging is best done with short exposures. So tracking shouldn't really be necessary for Lunar imaging, though does it make it a lot easier. I haven't tried them yet, but I think there are applications that can crop and center the ROI, and then rotate the frames for stacking (PIPP was mentioned to me in another thread). I found a really nice photo of Cleomedes G (19.4 km) with a DSLR camera and a (Barlowed) 750/150 Newtonian on AstroBin.com. A 114-mm Newtonian might have half the resolution, but should be doable I think with similar processing and atmospheric conditions. The photo from AstroBin required no less than five different software applications in order to produce, meaning it probably took a lot of time and work.
I've been to a couple of star parties with the Tri-State Astronomers in the Hagerstown-Martinsburg Area so it is possible we may have met there. If you could even just loan a GOTO mount for the day of the Mercury transit, it would be a huge help! I was going to try to rent a GOTO mount for November 11, but the budget is so tight, and I spent everything on the DSLR camera, so I haven't been able to get a power adapter, power supply, or intervalometer for the DSLR camera yet, which is probably going to be even more important than a tracking mount if I want enough images for stacking (6-image bursts are probably not enough). But even a manual (nonmotorized) GEM would be easier to use for Lunar (or Solar) imaging than a manual altazimuth mount, especially at a longer focal length.
The feedback I have gotten so far is that continuous shooting at 6000*4000 will always produce better results than 1920*1080 video, even with a slower framerate. I haven't tried 1080p video yet though to confirm that.
Edited by Nicole Sharp, 11 September 2019 - 05:45 PM.