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Wiring for 12v and maybe 5v budget but effective options?

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#1 markm75c

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 02:51 PM

As my dome finally is getting closer to delivery, hopefully in a few weeks, i'm starting to think about maybe doing dedicated 12v wiring at least, though perhaps i dont need it at least right off the start here.

 

In my build thread you can see that i basically have a 12x12 deck, permanent pvc 10" pier in the middle and nexdome to go around that.  I created a just a bit bigger than a shoebox area under the deck for power bricks for now.  Drilled a hole to allow air and wires through from the pier.

 

My mount is the cem120 but i also have a 7 port USB that i was using.

 

 

 

Here is a shot of the mount panels  The central ones are input.  And the one can take 12v 10amp on the center (dont have this supply).  The bottom one has the brick it came with, 12v5amp.  My thinking was i could attach the 7 port hub off the usb 3.0 port at the top, whereas the usb 3.0 on the bottom would go to my mini pc (19v mini pc btw).

cem60-front-cropped.jpg

 

So for right now i had ordered this basic brick off amazon:

Xenocam AC to DC converter, 12v 10amp $20  That would just power that secondary port in the middle for now and use the brick that came with the mount for the main power.

 

On that top right panel on the front is 5v1amp, sides have dual 12v1amp options and then on the left side there is 12v5amp on each max (2 of them).

 

What i definitely have to connect around the mount perhaps is the following:

 

Main power brick (OEM came with it) 12v5amp

Scope secondary power as mentioned 12v10amp (maybe the amazon brick for now).

 

Then coming off the usb 7 port ill have these:

USB power 12v3amp

Asi294 USB 3.0 + power 12v3amp

ASI 224 USB 3.0  (never at same time as 294 but 3.0 needed)

ASI 290mm mini USB 2.0

USB 2.0 to focuser

USB 2.0 on the mount for control (from mount to usb 7 port)

 

So if i plug the 7 port usb into the usb 3.0 i can attach it somewhere and just plug all usb's like i have been into the 7 port (or some usb 2.0 on the mount itself and all usb 3.0 on the 7 port, kinda a waste either way).

 

 

*****Now the 12v alternative wiring options:

So far i dont have any 5v needs but maybe i would one day?

 

I was thinking something like this power supply would do the job + wiring?

12v universal regulated 30amp power supply $18

 

I'm not completely up on how these wire together, but its my thought that i could use an 8 port anderson power pole board like this for a mere $56 and just run a positive and negative from the 12v regulated power supply to the pier somewhere?

 

Then create or buy prefab dc 2.1mm? connectors to wire into this anderson board and send to where they are needed?

Then theres the whole debate of whether i just send power to all the devices from this thing or just feed a single 10amp12v to the middle panel on the cem120 and use the ports on the cem120.

 

 

I guess i have multiple options here, i'm hoping short term there is no harm in using the simple 10amp brick off amazon. 

 

The other concern is where i'd put something like that regulated power supply in the dome itself, i guess create a small open ended plywood (1/2?) box and put it on the "wall" of the box, near the main power panel in the dome.

 

I'd also need to figure out the right type of wire (gauge etc) off amazon or similar to buy for the run from the reg. power supply to pier area (10 foot, so maybe 16 gauge, unsure)

 

Any thoughts/input here?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

 

 

 



#2 kathyastro

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 05:48 PM

I have my power supplies (three of them, for dome rotation, shutters, and all the stuff on the mount) on a shelf in the corner of the observatory.  The 12v feed to the pier is powered by a 35A power supply.  The wire runs under the floor.  On the pier, I have a Rigrunner, feeding power to the mount itself, the 12v accessory input on the mount (I have  CEM60), the focuser module, a dimmer for reticle eyepieces, and a cigarette-lighter outlet (just in case I ever need it to test a new device). 

 

I added a block of four Powerpole connectors to the saddle, fed from the mount's internal accessory wiring.  Into that, I plug my imaging camera and filter wheel.  I use the barrel connector on the mount to power my mirror fan.

 

I can't honestly imagine that you would ever need 5v at the mount.  Devices that run off 5v are usually powered via USB.

 

Use heavy-duty wire.  16ga is probably fine.

 

The power supply you linked is for computers.  Its 12v is probably 12.0 volts.  Most astro equipment is designed for "nominal" 12v, which means automotive or marine batteries that actually run at 13.5 volts or thereabouts.  A power supply that puts out 12.0 volts might actually give an under-voltage to some devices that are expecting more.  My power supply is 14.0 volts, and all my devices are happy.



#3 markm75c

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 06:06 PM

I have my power supplies (three of them, for dome rotation, shutters, and all the stuff on the mount) on a shelf in the corner of the observatory.  The 12v feed to the pier is powered by a 35A power supply.  The wire runs under the floor.  On the pier, I have a Rigrunner, feeding power to the mount itself, the 12v accessory input on the mount (I have  CEM60), the focuser module, a dimmer for reticle eyepieces, and a cigarette-lighter outlet (just in case I ever need it to test a new device). 

 

I added a block of four Powerpole connectors to the saddle, fed from the mount's internal accessory wiring.  Into that, I plug my imaging camera and filter wheel.  I use the barrel connector on the mount to power my mirror fan.

 

I can't honestly imagine that you would ever need 5v at the mount.  Devices that run off 5v are usually powered via USB.

 

Use heavy-duty wire.  16ga is probably fine.

 

The power supply you linked is for computers.  Its 12v is probably 12.0 volts.  Most astro equipment is designed for "nominal" 12v, which means automotive or marine batteries that actually run at 13.5 volts or thereabouts.  A power supply that puts out 12.0 volts might actually give an under-voltage to some devices that are expecting more.  My power supply is 14.0 volts, and all my devices are happy.

What sort of 12v 35amp supply are you using.  Your setup sounds great, though probably overkill for my current needs, i'm guessing.

 

I didnt think about the 12v aspect, so probably something like this would suffice (or up to 35amp i guess):

https://www.amazon.c...n/dp/B00IVC3RSQ

(unsure what the backend looks like)

 

I originally thought something like this https://powerwerx.co...al-meters-30amp

 

Wiring wise, Looks like you can get 100 feet for $30 on amazon of the 16 gauge

 

most of the dc connectors i'm seeing appear to be 18 gauge not 16, assuming these are what most are using.  Maybe i dont need 16 gauge only in the run going to pier from the supply


Edited by markm75c, 14 September 2019 - 06:18 PM.


#4 kathyastro

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 08:17 PM

I used this (or a very similar) power supply.  I though it was 35A, but this one says 30A.

https://powerwerx.co...upply-powerpole

 

The distribution block I attached to the front of the saddle is this one:

https://powerwerx.co...tribution-block

 

You probably don't need heavy-duty wire from the distribution blocks to the individual devices.  But you want it from the power supply to the pier.



#5 markm75c

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 01:15 AM

I used this (or a very similar) power supply. I though it was 35A, but this one says 30A.
https://powerwerx.co...upply-powerpole

The distribution block I attached to the front of the saddle is this one:
https://powerwerx.co...tribution-block

You probably don't need heavy-duty wire from the distribution blocks to the individual devices. But you want it from the power supply to the pier.

Yea I'm thinking the powerwerx is the way to go. I read though some things like certain cameras won't work since this is 14.1v that it needs to be under 14 and some opened it to change to say 13.5v. They have the variable one you can dial in for $159 though

How did you keep the unit from getting wet from any condensation in the observatory. I still think I should make the small box mount it on the wall of the bay. It should stay shielded

Edited by markm75c, 15 September 2019 - 01:15 AM.


#6 t-ara-fan

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 01:15 AM


most of the dc connectors i'm seeing appear to be 18 gauge not 16, assuming these are what most are using.  Maybe i dont need 16 gauge only in the run going to pier from the supply

16ga, 5 meters, 5 amps = 0.66V voltage drop.  Too much. (Voltage drop calculator here.)

 

I bought some 10ga wire for the 4m run from my power supplies to the scope. With a 10ga wire for the mount and second 10ga for the camera, dew heater, guider, etc.  So only 2-3 amps max on each wire.

 

I think a RigRunner is overkill.  I use an 8 position Anderson distribution block. I think if something shorts out, and doesn't just go up in a puff of smoke and become an open circuit, then the current limit in my power supply will kick in and shut down the supply.

 

10ga, 5 meters, 5 amps = 0.16V voltage drop.  And I might switch to 13.8V for everything.  I know the mount, cooled camera, and dew heater can take it. I just need to see if my 12V USB hubs can. Easy to test!!!


Edited by t-ara-fan, 15 September 2019 - 01:19 AM.


#7 markm75c

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 01:20 AM

16ga, 5 meters, 5 amps = 0.66V voltage drop. Too much.

I bought some 10ga wire for the 4m run from my power supplies to the scope. With a 10ga wire for the mount and 10ga for the camera, dew heater, guider, etc.

I think a RigRunner is overkill. I use an 8 position Anderson distribution block. I think if something shorts out, and doesn't just go up in a puff of smoke and become an open circuit, then the current limit in my power supply will kick in and shut down the supply.

10ga, 5 meters, 5 amps = 0.16V voltage drop. And I might switch to 13.8V for everything. I know the mount, cooled camera, and dew heater can take it. I just need to see if my 12V USB hubs can. Easy to test!!!


Nice. OK I should probably up the gauge a bit.

How did you do the DC connectors 2.5 and 2.1 etc. Did you find a source online that sells bare pig tails etc


The other part of this is the astrozap dew controller with cig plug on the end. What does everyone do with that, cut the plug off? I don't know what spec it needs. I assume 12v5amp

#8 nimitz69

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 07:15 AM

Yea I'm thinking the powerwerx is the way to go. I read though some things like certain cameras won't work since this is 14.1v that it needs to be under 14 and some opened it to change to say 13.5v. They have the variable one you can dial in for $159 though

How did you keep the unit from getting wet from any condensation in the observatory. I still think I should make the small box mount it on the wall of the bay. It should stay shielded

I have this exact same power supply & a 7 position Rig Runner.  right now since I just image from in my backyard while I'm finishing my observatory the power supply is just plugged into an outside wall socket sitting next to the tripod & the RigRunner is plugged into the powerbox.  All devices are either directly connected to the RigRunner or via a powered USB hub which is connected to the RigRunner.  Been working this way since the beginning of the year with no issues.



#9 kathyastro

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 07:34 AM

How did you do the DC connectors 2.5 and 2.1 etc. Did you find a source online that sells bare pig tails etc


The other part of this is the astrozap dew controller with cig plug on the end. What does everyone do with that, cut the plug off?

For 2.1mm barrel connectors, I buy the cable preassembled with a molded-on 2.1mm at one end and bare wires at the other.  I attach a Powerpole connector to the bare end, and I am good to go.

 

Yes, I cut off all my cigarette-lighter plugs and replaced them with Powerpoles.  The lighter plugs are evil.  They hold only by friction, and there is a spring in the end trying to push the thing out of the socket.  It is too easy to get a bad connection.  Powerpoles have a positive lock and are not going to break contact unexpectedly.


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#10 markm75c

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 10:08 PM

For 2.1mm barrel connectors, I buy the cable preassembled with a molded-on 2.1mm at one end and bare wires at the other.  I attach a Powerpole connector to the bare end, and I am good to go.

 

Yes, I cut off all my cigarette-lighter plugs and replaced them with Powerpoles.  The lighter plugs are evil.  They hold only by friction, and there is a spring in the end trying to push the thing out of the socket.  It is too easy to get a bad connection.  Powerpoles have a positive lock and are not going to break contact unexpectedly.

 

Nice i was always afraid to just cut the astrozapper cig lighter off.  Only question i'd have is how to know for sure which is positive and negative.  I guess for now i could even solder on a 2.1mm (it could be 4 weeks before the dome is all done and setup along with the 12v wiring).  

 

 

On the voltage drop, this is where i'm unsure, going from the pier to the side should be no more than 12 feet, probably about 6 honestly.  Even at 15 feet i'm seeing this stat for 20 amps:

Voltage drop: 0.52
Voltage drop percentage: 4.37%
Voltage at the end: 11.48

 

However, i dont think ill be pulling 20 amps, probably 10 which is about 0.26 drop.  That is, if i send a positive and negative to the anderson distrubution block at the pier area from the 30 amp powerworx device.  I guess though, if i have it set to 13.5 volts, it wont matter.  20 amps loss of 0.52v would mean it would still be around 13volts (for 10 guage wire).

 

16 gauge however is around 1.58v drop on 15 amps.  Looks like 15amps on 12 gauge is about 0.63, so 12 gauge is about as thin as i can probably go for the main run, i think 16 or 18 going from the distribution to each device is plenty.

 

I guess i should go for the $156 unit over the $119 just because its easier to lower the volts to 13.5

 

It almost seems like, with this solution, i wont really need ac power at the pier, though ill still have it there, at least not for most of the equipment.  I'm thinking some sort of master on off, maybe just a power strip in one of the bays would come in handy (for dc off/on and the rest), as with dc on even with the mount off, some of the ports still get power.


Edited by markm75c, 15 September 2019 - 10:14 PM.


#11 markm75c

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 12:40 PM

At this point here is a summary on what I think i'm going with based on everyone's input (thank you):

 

Powerwerx Variable 30amp ac to dc unit:  $159 shipped from here (looks like another $7.99 for a bracket to probably attach to a pvc box ill make)

**I'm not sure if the pvc box is really needed, well maybe over the top to be safe in case of a sudden leak in the nexdome, my real concern is on general condensation which i dont think an open box will really help, or if its even a worry with a unit like this?  Perhaps i could simply put in it some sort of tool box with holes for ventilation? Or, i might just mount on the pier itself, but ill need to run power back to the dome motor most likely.

 

I will adjust the output until the other end is roughly 12.5-13v constant under load (so probably setting to 13.5v instead of 14.1 at the unit)

I'm read too, that certain cameras out there might require 12v and only 12v, if i ever run into these, ill use the other ac brick with 2.1mm dc connectors instead.

 

Seems this has the best ratings and is used often on here, price is a tad higher than desired.

Although pyramid has a 30amp unit for around $72 but it doesnt appear you can change its output.

 

 

UPDATE: here is an alternative model to consider for $106 shipped (after 5% coupon) (Circuit Specialists CSI25SW-D 15v though, but 25 amp) ; however the reviews are a bit sketchy but i know of one person using them for awhile now.

UPDATE2: This Alinco DM-430T 30amp might do the trick and is cheaper DM-430T $138

 

Anderson powerpole distribution panel (40amp), 8 port (probably only need 4 for now):

$57 includes the fuses for each one (also seems to include the anderson connectors)

**UPDATE: or the $104 rigrunner 4008 option, strictly because it offers leds and audio alarm (leds for remote visibility of issues, audio for in person) ?

Or this generic for $72 with visual leds only

**$104 shipped here

 

12 gauge wire from the bay where ill have a ups/lcd screen to the pier (10-14 feet max, probably no more than 15 amp at any given point, less most likely):

$39 for 25 feet of red, 25 feet of black (this might be cheaper locally?), this was as cheap as i could find here on amazon

*Silicone wire, i assume its fine though i see pure copper as well

**update: $24.95 for 25 feet bonded rip cord here

**even better here:  $22 for 25 feet rip cord here

 

 

$11 for 40 feet: 18 gauge wire for the leads coming off the distribution block.  

**update: $8 here for 25 feet  bonded rip cord

**0.23 per foot stranded copper here

 

$30 crimping tool for anderson 15,30 etc  (Update: actually this one for $19 appears to be good)

 

$9 for dc pigtails for 2.1 connectors

**or this digikey source  or here

 

$10 for dc 2.5mm connectors (for making the ones to power the mount in its 2 locations)

 

$16 for 10 pair anderson connectors  (may not need if distribution panel comes with them above, which appears it does)

 

 

I think thats everything, about $293  here.


Edited by markm75c, 17 September 2019 - 11:48 AM.

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#12 t-ara-fan

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 03:21 PM

 

How did you do the DC connectors 2.5 and 2.1 etc. Did you find a source online that sells bare pig tails etc


The other part of this is the astrozap dew controller with cig plug on the end. What does everyone do with that, cut the plug off? I don't know what spec it needs. I assume 12v5amp

I buy the pigtails from Digikey:

2.1mm barrels:  https://www.digikey....?k=2.1mm barrel

I get the 18ga 839-1246-ND and 839-1242-ND because I like the red&black wires.  Center = positive = red.  For a single device a few feet away from distribution 18ga is fine.   They also sell 2.1mm extensions

 

Cig-lighter connectors are awful. I would cut the cig end off the cable and crimp on a Powerpole connector.

 

BTW buying the Powerpole crimp tool is worth the money. You get a reliable connection the first try.


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#13 t-ara-fan

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 03:25 PM

 

 

12 gauge wire from the bay where ill have a ups/lcd screen to the pier (10-14 feet max, probably no more than 15 amp at any given point, less most likely):

$39 for 25 feet of red, 25 feet of black (this might be cheaper locally?), this was as cheap as i could find here on amazon

*Silicone wire, i assume its fine though i see pure copper as well

 

$11 for 40 feet: 18 gauge wire for the leads coming off the distribution block.  

 

 

$30 crimping tool for anderson 15,30 etc

 

$9 for dc pigtails for 2.1 connectors

 

$10 for dc 2.5mm connectors (for making the ones to power the mount in its 2 locations)

 

$16 for 10 pair anderson connectors  (may not need if distribution panel comes with them above, which appears it does)

 

 

I think thats everything, about $324 here.

I buy the bonded zip cord, rather than separate red and black wires.

Those pigtails you listed look pretty short. Would you splice in more wire?  See my post above with 6' pigtails from Digikey.

Your Amazon crimp tool has a better price than the one from PowerWerx.

I am thinking of getting a linear 13.8V supply, which would be less noisy than a switcher.


Edited by t-ara-fan, 16 September 2019 - 06:18 PM.

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#14 markm75c

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 08:32 PM

I'm now thinking i may switch to the rigrunner 4008 unit, simply because it has the audio and visual led alarms for over/under volts (unclear to me how you set the limits or if you can though?)  If it works in a way where you can have them go off if say below 12.0v or above 13.5v then it could be useful, especially in a remote sense.

 

I'm also now thinking maybe if i put the ac to dc converter unit on the pier itself and leave on 24/7, the heat from it might combat any condensation issues that could occur in the nexdome (need others input from the nexdome forums to know for sure on that), otherwise ill place it in the bay and may also opt to move my mini pc to the bay in a drawer ventilated as well.  I think i'm going to get a web control unit that allows things to be turned off individually as well, so i could also end up getting a second powerwerx to power the dome itself, have the main unit power the mount, have these on separate channels on the web control to remote control turning things on and off 



#15 Phil Sherman

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Posted 17 September 2019 - 07:54 AM

I do all of my astro gear wiring using low voltage underground yard lighting twin lead. It`s available from my local Home Depot by the foot and in spools. I`ve used both the 12 and 14 gauge wire. The only issue with the 12ga is that you need to thin out the insulation to get it into the back of a small powerpole connector. An alternative is to trim the  insulation back and recover the exposed wire with heat shrink tubing.



#16 markm75c

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Posted 17 September 2019 - 10:51 AM

One of the remaining tasks i need to figure out is whether or not to fully utilize the rigrunner for all the power needs, or to rely on partly the cem120's outputs and the rest on the rig runner.  If i did the latter I wouldnt need many rig runner ports at all and i doubt the cem120 can alert to low/high volts like the rigrunner will.  So therefore i think its probably best just to use the rigrunner 100% but sort of a waste of good internal wiring on the cem120 part (same deal with the usb hub i may end up using over the built in ports).

 

**Also, is it possible to make some sort of temporary female 2.5 or 2.1mm dc plug off the rig runner (input) to use a wall wart i have on hand to power the rig runner outside before the dome arrives to test and arrange wiring.. i'm assuming i could just solder on a dc connector to the input that would normally come from the ac to dc power unit.


Edited by markm75c, 17 September 2019 - 10:54 AM.


#17 markm75c

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Posted 17 September 2019 - 11:32 AM

Also, this dxengineering stuff has great pricing (i updated the summary above), but basically too, i found an ac to dc power unit that seems solid for $138 there (no mounting bracket though, so that might be a challenge if i go pier mount) (they ship most things free and next day arrival too, at least to me from ohio to pa)

https://www.dxengine...rts/alo-dm-430t


Edited by markm75c, 17 September 2019 - 11:49 AM.


#18 markm75c

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Posted 17 September 2019 - 04:10 PM

I found out the cem120's aux output on the saddle can be split (somehow), so given that, i may not even need a rigrunner and dc, or maybe just dc unit to power the two inputs on the mount for now (2-4 port distro unit?)



#19 t-ara-fan

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Posted 17 September 2019 - 09:09 PM

 

I'm also now thinking maybe if i put the ac to dc converter unit on the pier itself and leave on 24/7, the heat from it might combat any condensation issues that could occur in the nexdome (need others input from the nexdome forums to know for sure on that), 

With everything at idle, the power supply will probably just kick out 1-2W of heat.

 

Add one of these to make some heat.  Three bucks plus shipping.



#20 Raginar

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 09:07 AM

As my dome finally is getting closer to delivery, hopefully in a few weeks, i'm starting to think about maybe doing dedicated 12v wiring at least, though perhaps i dont need it at least right off the start here.

 

In my build thread you can see that i basically have a 12x12 deck, permanent pvc 10" pier in the middle and nexdome to go around that.  I created a just a bit bigger than a shoebox area under the deck for power bricks for now.  Drilled a hole to allow air and wires through from the pier.

 

My mount is the cem120 but i also have a 7 port USB that i was using.

 

 

 

Here is a shot of the mount panels  The central ones are input.  And the one can take 12v 10amp on the center (dont have this supply).  The bottom one has the brick it came with, 12v5amp.  My thinking was i could attach the 7 port hub off the usb 3.0 port at the top, whereas the usb 3.0 on the bottom would go to my mini pc (19v mini pc btw).

cem60-front-cropped.jpg

 

So for right now i had ordered this basic brick off amazon:

Xenocam AC to DC converter, 12v 10amp $20  That would just power that secondary port in the middle for now and use the brick that came with the mount for the main power.

 

On that top right panel on the front is 5v1amp, sides have dual 12v1amp options and then on the left side there is 12v5amp on each max (2 of them).

 

What i definitely have to connect around the mount perhaps is the following:

 

Main power brick (OEM came with it) 12v5amp

Scope secondary power as mentioned 12v10amp (maybe the amazon brick for now).

 

Then coming off the usb 7 port ill have these:

USB power 12v3amp

Asi294 USB 3.0 + power 12v3amp

ASI 224 USB 3.0  (never at same time as 294 but 3.0 needed)

ASI 290mm mini USB 2.0

USB 2.0 to focuser

USB 2.0 on the mount for control (from mount to usb 7 port)

 

So if i plug the 7 port usb into the usb 3.0 i can attach it somewhere and just plug all usb's like i have been into the 7 port (or some usb 2.0 on the mount itself and all usb 3.0 on the 7 port, kinda a waste either way).

 

 

*****Now the 12v alternative wiring options:

So far i dont have any 5v needs but maybe i would one day?

 

I was thinking something like this power supply would do the job + wiring?

12v universal regulated 30amp power supply $18

 

I'm not completely up on how these wire together, but its my thought that i could use an 8 port anderson power pole board like this for a mere $56 and just run a positive and negative from the 12v regulated power supply to the pier somewhere?

 

Then create or buy prefab dc 2.1mm? connectors to wire into this anderson board and send to where they are needed?

Then theres the whole debate of whether i just send power to all the devices from this thing or just feed a single 10amp12v to the middle panel on the cem120 and use the ports on the cem120.

 

 

I guess i have multiple options here, i'm hoping short term there is no harm in using the simple 10amp brick off amazon. 

 

The other concern is where i'd put something like that regulated power supply in the dome itself, i guess create a small open ended plywood (1/2?) box and put it on the "wall" of the box, near the main power panel in the dome.

 

I'd also need to figure out the right type of wire (gauge etc) off amazon or similar to buy for the run from the reg. power supply to pier area (10 foot, so maybe 16 gauge, unsure)

 

Any thoughts/input here?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Thanks in advance

I used a Powerwerx regulated supply with rigrunner distribution panels and powerpole connectors on their wiring.  I have the rig runner mounted on my scope with the computer.  The only cables that go up to the computer is a power supply; the only cable going down from it is an HDMI cable for a portable screen I use.  

 

When I'm in my observatory, I have an additional serial cable that goes from the roof controller to the computer.

 

Chris


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#21 markm75c

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 10:22 AM

Had some time to iron things out last nite.

 

 i was able to power everything from the mount  So i guess ill need to decide when to get the power supply and a rig runner board (just using my amazon 10amp generic brick and the 5amp that came with the mount for now)

 

The rig runner board would probably only power the aux 10amp port, the main 5amp port, the dome and future shutter (10amp unsure), maybe a usb hub (3amp) for the usbs that come off the lower part of the mount (i have 3 right now, not using the lan port just yet but i may just use that if its just as easy to get ascom working via lan, saves 1 usb).  Thats about 25-30amps still (but probably in reality a bit less).

 

So i guess i still need at least a 4-5 port rigrunner and the only one they sell with alarms/leds is the 4008, so ill prob still get that.

 

i was going to get one of these web control units.

https://www.amazon.c...lv_ov_lig_dp_it   $169

The only issue i can see is that the max is 15 amps on a plug on here, but i do know others are using them.

 

Now my only decision is figuring out if i'm going to mount the ac to dc unit on the pier or in a bay

 

If i put it on the pier then for this web control to work i need to run power (extension) to the pier.  Still unsure if i truly need this type of control, but i guess it would be nice to click on an app and turn on/off the mount, dome lights, dome control etc remotely.  The goal was remote control capable in the end.



#22 Raginar

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 11:22 AM

15A is pretty high.  My guide camera/focuser/rotator/cooler on a QHY16200/Industrial computer use a max of 3A and usually hover around 2.2A.

 

My mount uses around 1-3A depending on what it's doing.



#23 markm75c

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 11:51 AM

15A is pretty high.  My guide camera/focuser/rotator/cooler on a QHY16200/Industrial computer use a max of 3A and usually hover around 2.2A.

 

My mount uses around 1-3A depending on what it's doing.

Yeah i dont think the total pull will be that high at all.  Re-summarizing for better clarity here:

 

 

I think i'm overcomplicating my own setup. As like i said, everything OTA accessories i power off my mount which is fed by a 10amp plug on the input panel (no need for rigrunner at this time for the accessories part). The mount power has another input 5amp. Both are using old school wall warts (i have ac power to the dome or will soon anyway, its wired)
Now i need to decide if i should go through the effort of the dc unit to power the mount and accessories on ota via a rigrunner or not. Clean power, i guess, its a bonus but at a cost of around $300 with all wires, dc units etc.
In terms of the digital logger web control unit then, I guess ill have this (each separate control):
1. Mount power AC wallwart 5amp (came with cem120)
2. Mount accessories power 10amp amazon wallwart reads 12.2 on voltmeter (still unsure when i'd need to only power mount and not all or none? could just combine into 1)
3. Dome lights led
4. Dome rotation control
5. Dome portable heater (never on high as noted)
So yeah i need to weigh in the need for dc or just stick with the AC adapters for now. And for led purposes only the 4008 model has leds/alarms.
1 + 2 could be combined into the rigrunner/dc generator,, i just dont know its worth it.



#24 markm75c

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 01:46 PM

I guess one perk of going to the ac to dc unit, would be possible reduction in noise vs using the AC to DC wall warts, at least with imaging.  

 

If for now i choose to stick with the walwarts, i'll probably put the web control unit on the pier and run female to male extensions to the wall wart for the dome at least (5amp) and anything else that sits on the perimeter that takes DC plugs.

 

It would seem based on calculations that i'd still need to run/make at least 12 gauge to go over 12 feet or so max at 5amp without much drop (11.79v), actually probably 10 gauge necessary, unless i'm doing the calculations wrong (actually 10 gauge is still 11.87 at the end, doesnt seem right for a simple small adapter).


Edited by markm75c, 18 September 2019 - 01:52 PM.


#25 Raginar

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 05:21 PM

I just put my power supply at the mount. You can 3M or velcro it in place to shorten the run. 12’ is huge.


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