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Lots on Unitron lately

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140 replies to this topic

#26 Chuck Hards

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Posted 09 October 2019 - 09:24 AM

 The S&T DVD is a PITA, I have originals.

 

I haven't been able to use the DVDs since WinXP.   A friend stuck them on a thumb drive for me, TONS easier to deal with.  I have most paper issues but they are not organized.



#27 apfever

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Posted 10 October 2019 - 10:37 PM

This took quite some time, mostly because of the weight shaft. I had to figure out a variety of things from scratch such as the tension rods that set the gap at the top of the legs. Two of the legs would never go on the hub due to the tension rods holding the tops too close together. What I call the tension rods are also the rods the spreader tray attaches to.  There were a few nut and bolt items in the parts box I had to figure out. This is much taller than the model 140 I had. Slo-mo rod and floppy are in the mount case and in good shape. The counterweight is 11.7 pounds and still a bit heavy in this configuration, all the way up. This was ordered from the factory as the Unihex version so that should at least match the weight, maybe let the weight move down the shaft a hair. I'm holding off on the Unihex and solar set till I get closer to viewing.  Adding those now would push the OTA further out and it sticks out enough as is. The OTA is balanced in the saddle as shown. 

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#28 apfever

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Posted 10 October 2019 - 10:46 PM

Did these come with both latitude adjusters as standard equipment? I checked the throw and they blend into each other nicely for continuous extended range.  The band on the longer installed unit is tape deposit. The nickel plate is fine.

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Edited by apfever, 10 October 2019 - 10:48 PM.

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#29 CHASLX200

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Posted 11 October 2019 - 05:13 AM

Did these come with both latitude adjusters as standard equipment? I checked the throw and they blend into each other nicely for continuous extended range.  The band on the longer installed unit is tape deposit. The nickel plate is fine.

 My 1960 M152 did as i had to  use the one that came in the box for my Florida latitude



#30 Jim Curry

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Posted 11 October 2019 - 05:21 AM

Mine, too

 My 1960 M152 did as i had to  use the one that came in the box for my Florida latitude



#31 apfever

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Posted 11 October 2019 - 06:57 AM

A few parts of this scope had been messed with and left undamaged but not quite right. The counterweight shaft is one.  The collar had the set screw removed and reinstalled in the shaft, while the collar had been unscrewed till it bound up. This took a while to wiggle off in the first picture. There was no damage to the shaft or collar, not even the plating.  I was able to figure out what went where after I removed the collar. 

 

Unitron got this part right. The collar was installed very tight against the unmachined ring on the shaft before it was drilled and tapped for the retaining screw. I had to use larger lock nuts to hold the shaft, and had to knock the collar tighter and tighter with several tries to get the original retaining holes to line up.  Second picture. 

 

All of this took a lot of lube including down the hole in the collar. A lot of back and forth movement to keep things progressing the right direction.  Reading glasses and mini light, mini files for some very minor end dings on the shaft, tranny picks, razors, my 5 gallon bolts bucket, and everything else in the cockpit to try to get this to fly without any galling or other damnage.  I wasn't about to touch a tap or die. Those would cut a best fit once they start to lock, and that would mean plating coming off where it shouldn't at the least. Aside from some very light touch up on the first thread at the exposed tip of the shaft, I didn't experience a mark on the plating. This took some time.

 

 

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#32 apfever

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Posted 11 October 2019 - 07:12 AM

FOR THE RECORD:

 

Unlike the nightmare time I had identifying the thread on my model 142 shaft, this one was easy. It is NOT metric, it is a standard 3/4" UNC (universal national course), used to be called just a 3/4" NC, this is 10 threads per inch. Here's a standard bolt that I was able to hand thread in all 2" deep.  After the model 142 ordeal, I am simply shocked that the random daily setting on the thread cutting machine was this close to a standard thread. wink.gif

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#33 apfever

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Posted 11 October 2019 - 07:27 AM

My first time through. I'll figure out better ergonomics. The tray is broken so this let me lift the mount and have the legs come up on the carpet for security. I used the tray as a guide to get the right spread. I don't think the tips will get through the carpet.  I put that floor in myself.  Somebody had the nuts and washers wrong at the top of the legs. I figured that out with the loose parts. 

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Edited by apfever, 11 October 2019 - 07:30 AM.

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#34 apfever

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Posted 11 October 2019 - 07:43 AM

For those in the know - WOW - you get to see the $1.95 version!

 

This will be part of the resto work after first light check of the OTA. The AZ movement is locked solid even with the lock screw removed. There's no external sign of corrosion outside the retaining ring so it should be a matter of internal cleaning, buffing, lube. I get a funky feeling on this. You think there might be batteries left in it?

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#35 apfever

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Posted 11 October 2019 - 07:57 AM

Unitron furniture, might be good for a lamp stand too.

 

Kind of scary but I opened it carefully and double checked how it was hung.  Our first cold day for the season hit pretty hard and heavy. I heat with wood and had to find a replacement for the large maple table I got rid of. The mount case was way to perfect to turn down. I plan to use it for the season, it can go with me if I'm not here.

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#36 apfever

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Posted 11 October 2019 - 08:03 AM

 My 1960 M152 did as i had to  use the one that came in the box for my Florida latitude

 

 

Mine, too

Thank you, thank you, so standard equipment.

 

 


Edited by apfever, 11 October 2019 - 01:14 PM.


#37 ccwemyss

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Posted 11 October 2019 - 10:14 AM

The early Unitron 142 turned out to be a 1/2" x 12TPI threaded shaft, which fit perfectly. That was a Whitworth standard, and was used in automotive applications in the US. You can still find taps and dies for it if you search sites for antique car tools. 

 

Chip W.

 

FOR THE RECORD:

 

Unlike the nightmare time I had identifying the thread on my model 142 shaft, this one was easy. It is NOT metric, it is a standard 3/4" UNC (universal national course), used to be called just a 3/4" NC, this is 10 threads per inch. Here's a standard bolt that I was able to hand thread in all 2" deep.  After the model 142 ordeal, I am simply shocked that the random daily setting on the thread cutting machine was this close to a standard thread. wink.gif



#38 apfever

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Posted 13 October 2019 - 09:13 AM

I think 1/2 X 12 is what I calculated for that, but I never found any record or reference of existence.  Good job.  Maybe the daily thread setting was actually oriented towards an official spec!



#39 Terra Nova

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Posted 13 October 2019 - 04:00 PM

For someone who hasn’t used one or seen one in person, it’s hard to imagine just how huge the 4” Unitron GEMs are!


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#40 apfever

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Posted 23 October 2019 - 11:18 AM

cutting to the chase.  i'm surprised by the pickle.

 

Been more than ready for this and putting it together never struck me as a rocket science issue.  One thing it turned out to be is quite ambiguous. What I recalled didn't make logic to me, so I looked up my picture in post number 8.  That picture shows the tray hook would go UP under the leg rod, and the moving latch would slide OVER the leg rod and bear the assemblies weight.  I think I can do better than that and may not reassemble it that way even if factory. This shows the hooks installed each way. I'd prefer the lower left so the hook would rest down on the rod for installation.  

 

TRY to consider an assembled unit with the pictures showing the tray upside down.  It gets worse otherwise.

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Edited by apfever, 23 October 2019 - 01:11 PM.

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#41 apfever

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Posted 23 October 2019 - 11:29 AM

Turns out that the slider can go either way on the hook. Top or bottom.  Go with the pencil, it is written.  The latch on the right side could hook down on the rod, and the slider would be on top to operate. I think this is factory.  This leaves the hook loose to float on the rod since the slider has clearance under the rod. 

 

The point of the pencil is having the slider mounted on the bottom of the hook so that it would push the wedge end up against the rod and apply some positive hold. I doubt Unitron had this in mind but it Works. Larger washers on the top side of the slider bolts would bear a little tension, not an issue now, will get to that.   

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#42 apfever

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Posted 23 October 2019 - 11:35 AM

Here's to looking up under the latch, mounted on the rod. The slider is on the bottom, with the wedge end holding up against the rod.  This works and is what I'm going for.   This is sitting here waiting. Due to the ambiguous possibilities, I have no idea which way the spring would go. The spring could be made to work either way with any other possibility and right about now I start to …..something.  

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#43 apfever

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Posted 23 October 2019 - 11:38 AM

While I'm waiting,  I might as well do the nylon washer thing.  Then check back. The washers need to be bored.

 

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#44 apfever

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Posted 23 October 2019 - 12:24 PM

Hmmmm, no solutions yet.

 

Here's bored and mounted.

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#45 apfever

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Posted 23 October 2019 - 12:26 PM

Other side and the same thing on the Celestron Polaris that I've been doing forever.  Too easy and too friendly to the system. The Celestron takes a stock store slip fit.

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Edited by apfever, 23 October 2019 - 12:27 PM.

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#46 apfever

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 06:47 PM

For those in the know - WOW - you get to see the $1.95 version!

 

This will be part of the resto work after first light check of the OTA. The AZ movement is locked solid even with the lock screw removed. There's no external sign of corrosion outside the retaining ring so it should be a matter of internal cleaning, buffing, lube. I get a funky feeling on this. You think there might be batteries left in it?

This is a picture after attempt. It didn't move an iota, maybe not even a dx.

 

That's black walnut 6/4 that I drilled the slip fitting holes in to match the tray light protrusions. This walnut was clamped in a vice to hold it so the larger body of the mount could be turned to unscrew the mount and light. The crush marks in the small holes can be seen from the tabs of the tray light. I put more on it than what meets the inner eye. The fluid is penetrating lube. 

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#47 apfever

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 06:52 PM

I made two strap wrenches and a couple pieces of flat stock that would break something before they would bend. I figured the cracking and stress pops were in the wood. This was a lot but I have one more shot with a lot more.

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#48 apfever

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:09 PM

Here's the tool to hold the light, before using it. Next time around I'll make the holes in the middle of a long board, and use the board as a double handles wrench. The mount will be held.

I'm thinking also that I may slit the line of holes through the middle and clamp them so the light protrusion is grabbed by the board also. 

 

I'll cut a shamrock into a piece of 3/4"  13 ply cabinet plywood, to match the leg mounts of the hub. I can custom relieve the shamrock to apply force exactly where I want it. The LARGE piece of plywood will be clamped to the main bench with the shamrock off the side. The mount will go upside down, and the leg tangs up through the shamrock.  It will be held by pins in the leg bolt holes. Then the long wrench on the light.  I'll use the 50/50 mix of acetone and used tranny fluid.  Have both. This will be up and photo'd tomorrow. What will hold things a little is getting the dry ice.  I'll cut a ring of dry ice and put it over the tray light for a bit to help shrink it.  The question is, How hot can I get the hub assembly first?  I figured it should be OK with a hot car rolled up in the sun on a hot day so maybe the low 200's degree range.

 

Heat the mount.

Foil the mount and put it in the holder.

Dry ice the tray light, listen for the pull.

Take the dry ice ring off and wrench till I shear the tray light tangs off.

Get other implements of destruction and drill out the frozen light.

Cut the light threads through to the hub and knock the pieces out.

This will save the mount and threads for another light.  

 

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#49 apfever

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:14 PM

Meanwhile the legs but I have to run to get some special stainless hardware for this... so pictures fast.

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#50 apfever

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:17 PM

.

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