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Lots on Unitron lately

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#51 apfever

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:23 PM

The dunk tank.  4" ABS pipe, rubber cap quickie, plenty of Behr.  That's a short dunk up to the center block. They float so a pipe is used to sink them for about an hour.  

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#52 apfever

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:25 PM

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#53 apfever

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:27 PM

All done and soaking in ….I think it was a matress bag....I'll start the rub tomorrow. The tips are in Evaporust. I need to run for new screws. 

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#54 Steve Allison

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:36 PM

Great fun watching your progress!



#55 Jim Curry

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Posted 11 January 2020 - 07:33 AM

A lot of work but really taking shape.  Too bad about the light.  The threads are probably too far away from the lip for the penetrating oil to reach.  I hate to think you'll have to perform a destructive disassembly but that may be your only option.



#56 apfever

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Posted 11 January 2020 - 11:17 PM

I have to hand it to Company 7 for having the best picture of this light.  I have a gap that lets me reach the threads. The base of the light does not seat hard on the hub. I'll use a hypodermic for lube. Today got busy. 

 

CO. 7 link

 

scroll down about 1/3

 


Edited by apfever, 11 January 2020 - 11:18 PM.


#57 Jim Curry

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 11:04 AM

That's it.  A gap is what you'll need.  Good luck.



#58 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 03:57 PM

Oh boy,  see to pulling this together, just decided to take pictures.  I'm guessing several times what I cram in here. These are simply done. I'm done with them. They can still bleed but I just move them around. so...they are sunning. It's perfect. I just took these. The chair is part of the inspiration.

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#59 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 04:09 PM

So finding the tips.  Evaporust, the stuff is a blast. I love the finish it leaves, which then leaves. Let an item drip dry from Evaporust and that coating will take a finish as well. All three tips had weep holes. These are staying As Is with original finish, getting two coats. 

 

The screws in the bag are stainless replacements for the 9 tip screws, three each tip. These are left over from all the ATCO and/or 10TE scopes. They're Philips, kept the originals which weren't horrible. Turns out the new ones are a hair smaller and perfect for the tip mods.

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Edited by apfever, 24 January 2020 - 04:16 PM.


#60 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 04:13 PM

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#61 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 04:19 PM

The tips are in the upper left corner close to where they go.  That's it for tips.

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#62 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 04:28 PM

An inside tip. I did these with some scope. I think one Chip has. Maybe more than one. Pretty easy. Seems like a good idea. I think this stuff breaths when it's foamed. Maybe not but I like the result. You can't beat the wood tip for getting damp with a rag or sponge or anything. Wet it good for the Gorilla Glue. I do not have stock in the company. This approach will give you Iron Man finger tips for a very short period of time. I find it gone after a very short stint splitting firewood. Put it on thin there isn't much needed. 

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#63 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 04:38 PM

The spreader tray worked great. It has the same finish. Cut some sandwich bags in half, up the middle so you have the bottom corners. The right edge shows a bag over the wood leg tip and the metal tip pushed over that. The plastic for prongs are to align the original screw holes at 3 per tip. So First the damp, then glue, then a baggie corner, then tip already pre aligned so you know how it goes, insert fork prongs. 

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#64 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 04:47 PM

Just check them and you NEED to work the prongs out and lightly back in on occasion. The glue will grab them. Flip the prongs after a few times and wiggle the curve in the other way. I only lost one that broke off. Lightly installed the other two screws and used the tip hole to drill through. Weight of the legs on the tips seemed perfect to cure.  Watch the foam, easy to trim down off. 

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#65 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 04:56 PM

I let one foam extra fluff before the bag to show how the Gorilla expands. 

Picture after cure and tip removal, with the bag still on.  The bag comes off nicely. 

I knock off the glue from the wood tip to let the tip expose. These now have a decent custom support fit. 

The slightly smaller tip screws rocked solid. I used a true lacquer pen paint to blacken the tip screws...eventually.

 

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#66 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 05:35 PM

Unitron had finish over the leg screws which I like. There were 4 different screws, two lengths in each of brass and steel. I went all brass.  After full assembly I dipped the tips in the 5 gallon bucket and also brushed over the outside faces for a second coat. They now get a rag wipe as they bleed back out. That will stop in a few more days. Going for the brass here. The hard rubber caps are perfect leg tip protectors for any surface. 

 

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#67 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 05:40 PM

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#68 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 09:49 PM

Did a lot on this awhile ago, not so far awaay. Decided to hold the base and eliminate gear fear of breaking the base. This is some 13 ply 3/4" cabinet sheet. I cut out rings for a truss upper cage from it, a long time ago.  Perfect wings to mount the frozen base and turn the light out. The drilled holes let the leg mounts go flush to the ply and easy enough to trace them out. 

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#69 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 09:58 PM

Some paper box shims where I felt like it, mount held snug to the top plate, ATF/acetone mix and in the hypo. The whole assembly held by rotating to stop in the barn door. This all stays still.  The custom tool turns the light.  I already hear "..how many people does it take.....

 

This was right at attempt. There is 3M double sided tape around the light base, and the tool pre-tacky to grab tape. By this time I also did the gorilla glue mold to custom grip the whole tangs on the light. 

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Edited by apfever, 24 January 2020 - 10:01 PM.


#70 apfever

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 10:11 PM

The second failure of the tool with the 3M tape and glue filled holes. Time to step up the tooling. The clamping is holding the mount in place while the glue forms to the tangs on the light. This shows how the ply is cocked in the barn door to hold. 

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Edited by apfever, 24 January 2020 - 10:13 PM.

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#71 apfever

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Posted 25 January 2020 - 04:52 AM

How hot can I heat the mount? My oven is programable to under 175 degrees.   I'm seriously thinking about the dry ice thing too. I could damp rag it if boiling first, then ice it, then dry ice it. I haven't figured the CTE of the aluminum (hope its AL) but say a difference of well over 200 degrees for the diameter of the threads would be interesting. Think this would hurt it?  I believe there may be a bondo type stuff under the finish. 

 

I'm going to a new board. 4/4 oak with better grain. I also want to pin the tool into the light by drilling and using the inverted drill bit as a pin from tool to light. A slight angle into the counter clockwise direction, doesn't have to be much of an angle. A little angle will go a long way to snugging the tool and light together. Use some of that 3M.



#72 KentTolley

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Posted 25 January 2020 - 06:34 PM

An awesome and inspiring instrument and  you are doing a bang-up job restoring it.  



#73 apfever

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Posted 04 September 2020 - 02:40 PM

Well where was I?   First and foremost, opinion needed. 

 

The wing stubs failed after heating the unit to 195 degrees F, then dry ice on the light to shrink it away from the hot mount. This has been the holding point for all this time. I mostly expected a structural failure. The tray light no doubt has the batteries left in and the corrosion isn't going to un-unitize. 

 

I have two options:

1. Finish breaking out the light. Do some cutting, drilling, and just knock out the bits and pieces. I believe the threads in the mount will be OK. Knocking out the pieces will let me clean that up. Knocking out the pieces will let me get better access to free up the locked azimuth movement for polar alignment. The azimuth movement may be recoverable and I think it is.  I never had big expectation for the light. 

 

2. Leave it with the light locked in.  Let some one else take a stab at it 'as is' in the future. The two boss' are broken off now from the attempt. It would have been salvageable on the Enterprise. 

 

I think it more valuable if I knock out it's light and do the clean up even if the azimuth is Star Trek also. 

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#74 starman876

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Posted 04 September 2020 - 03:00 PM

have  you tried soaking it in vinigar?



#75 apfever

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Posted 04 September 2020 - 04:30 PM

Ouch. Late for that. I have about a pint of vinegar but I don't want to risk the finish or any acid damage that might show up elsewhere. I'm not sure what the base metal is. No guarantee it is aluminum or magnesium. It may be a bit more base, as in base of the smelting pot sometimes called pot metal. Baking soda is reactive to battery corrosion in a general way, vinegar would be the opposite. 

I believe the batteries are inside. Corrosion this extensive - with the batteries still there - spells not practical to me. That's a LOT of mass mess inside.  It fills the chamber to affect the azm movement.  There is some corrosion chunks that had come out the ALT. bolt hole on occasion. The torque I applied was enough to cause concern about the mount integrity if I went further.  

 

Here's a couple of pictures from January. I had thought about drilling through the board and light, then pinning the two with the bit at a slight angle. I took about 12 pictures of various setups. It turns out that more torque ability wasn't needed to jeopardize the mount. 

 

Yes, the light could still be salvaged aside from the tangs that could be glued back. The tangs only hold the shell cover. I have no way to turn the light now unless I do the drill and pin.  Any and all electronics and possibly casting integrity are going to be toast for the light.  But, I'm still open for ideas. More input on vinegar and it's effects both good and bad.

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Edited by apfever, 04 September 2020 - 04:32 PM.



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