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Let the NV Journey Begin

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#1 Peregrinatum

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Posted 09 November 2019 - 10:12 PM

Just received this in the mail today, as a token for starting my NV quest...  C mount X 1.25" Bayonet

 

With assistance from Eddgie I was able to place an order with UNV for a Mod 3 C Mount NV Monocular, Rich from UNV advised it won't be available until January... so this gives me some time to start acquiring the needed accessories... I think TNVC may have them sooner, but I did not want to pay the additional sales tax required here in Kommifornia, so a  little wait is fine with me...  I look at NV as a means to astronomy long after I can't manage all the other heavier equipment.

 

I hope to document my progress here, please feel free to advise from your experiences on how I should proceed.

 

edit:  I would appreciate a heads up if you see a Mod 3 C pop up on the classifieds.

 

edit:  I plan to use NV in these modes:

-hand held monocular

-prime focus in an OAG

-afocally with an eyepiece

-imaging through the NV monocular

 

TuQlBj1.jpg


Edited by nicknacknock, 09 June 2020 - 09:31 AM.

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#2 Mazerski

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Posted 09 November 2019 - 10:27 PM

Filters: opinions will vary and depends on $$ and light pollution 

 

I live on east coast and sky is not great so overall I find the Astronomik 

— 642nm IR 

— 6nm CCD Ha 

 

the best all around. You will need both types (IR and Ha).


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#3 MrRoberts

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Posted 09 November 2019 - 10:49 PM

I started my journey earlier this year. Also have the MOD3 (wht pho/filmless/with gain control). I live about 45 min drive nw of Chicago, so lots of general light pollution. I'm taking this one to my grave. What an asset. I've been using it these past couple of weeks near Tucson while visiting parents. I only keep my C-8/E and Esprit 80 here, so have been playing with it between the two scope. With the dark sky's here it really stands out even more.

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#4 bobhen

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Posted 10 November 2019 - 07:59 AM

 I look at NV as a means to astronomy long after I can't manage all the other heavier equipment.

 

The above says it all.

 

That’s exactly why when I downsized I moved to NV. Now, with NV, my smaller, more portable, lighter scopes actually deliver more than larger unassisted scopes.

 

As a guide, I use the 6 nm Ha Astronomik and a 685 Pass filters in my “heavy” light pollution and I’m very happy with those filters. I tried a 7 Ha and 610 Pass and like the aforementioned better.

 

Not sure what scopes you are using but most NV users use a camera lens or maybe a 50 mm guide scope for extremely wide fields, a small 5-6” fast reflector or 80-120 mm fast refractor for wide fields and a larger scope or two for objects that need image scale.

 

For the last three years since I started using NV, I haven’t used glass eyepieces for any deep sky viewing. 

 

Bob


Edited by bobhen, 10 November 2019 - 07:59 AM.

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#5 Peregrinatum

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Posted 10 November 2019 - 10:48 AM

I started my journey earlier this year. Also have the MOD3 (wht pho/filmless/with gain control). I live about 45 min drive nw of Chicago, so lots of general light pollution. I'm taking this one to my grave. What an asset. I've been using it these past couple of weeks near Tucson while visiting parents. I only keep my C-8/E and Esprit 80 here, so have been playing with it between the two scope. With the dark sky's here it really stands out even more.

 

With your SCT would this image train work, or are other components needed (reducer)? 

 

OTA> Diagonal> 1.25" Bayonet to C Mount> Mod 3

 

I have a C925 Edge with FR



#6 Peregrinatum

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Posted 10 November 2019 - 10:52 AM

The above says it all.

 

That’s exactly why when I downsized I moved to NV. Now, with NV, my smaller, more portable, lighter scopes actually deliver more than larger unassisted scopes.

 

As a guide, I use the 6 nm Ha Astronomik and a 685 Pass filters in my “heavy” light pollution and I’m very happy with those filters. I tried a 7 Ha and 610 Pass and like the aforementioned better.

 

Not sure what scopes you are using but most NV users use a camera lens or maybe a 50 mm guide scope for extremely wide fields, a small 5-6” fast reflector or 80-120 mm fast refractor for wide fields and a larger scope or two for objects that need image scale.

 

For the last three years since I started using NV, I haven’t used glass eyepieces for any deep sky viewing. 

 

Bob

Nice, I have both of those filters now... a Baader 1.25" 685nm IR Pass that I use for planetary imaging, and an Astonomik 1.25" 6nm Ha I use for DSO imaging.

 

My skies are approximately 19 and probably orange/red on the Bortle scale... presently I can't see M33 with glass using a 12" Dob, so that is my standard at present Lol to see M33 without having to image it!

 

I have these scopes presently, not sure which would be best with NV:

12" GSO Dob

C925 Edge & 0.7XFR

AT115mm & 0.8XFR

SV80mm Access & 0.8XFR


Edited by Peregrinatum, 10 November 2019 - 10:55 AM.


#7 bobhen

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Posted 10 November 2019 - 12:14 PM

Nice, I have both of those filters now... a Baader 1.25" 685nm IR Pass that I use for planetary imaging, and an Astonomik 1.25" 6nm Ha I use for DSO imaging.

 

My skies are approximately 19 and probably orange/red on the Bortle scale... presently I can't see M33 with glass using a 12" Dob, so that is my standard at present Lol to see M33 without having to image it!

 

I have these scopes presently, not sure which would be best with NV:

12" GSO Dob

C925 Edge & 0.7XFR

AT115mm & 0.8XFR

SV80mm Access & 0.8XFR

Even in very heavy light pollution, you’ll see M33 with the Pass filter and 80 or 115mm refractors. If you know where to look, put in the Ha filter and NCG 604 (the nebula in M33) can also be spotted.

 

All your scopes will work. It’s just a matter of how wide a field you want. And with NV, you will be observing some very large nebula so you will want a wide field scope.

 

As a guide, I use a 102mm F5 achromat with a .7 reducer getting to around F3.5 so around 350mm FL. This gives me some rally nice wide field views. For “extremely” wide field views, I use a repurposed Orion 50mm guide scope at F3.2 with a FL of 162mm.

 

The SCT and Dobsonian can be used for the smaller stuff like globulars etc.

 

Bob



#8 GOLGO13

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Posted 10 November 2019 - 04:08 PM

I think that 12 inch will really shine for some objects. I've found my 10 inch F4.7 provides me the bests views for what I can fit in the field of view.

 

they all have their place...even the C9.25 will be useful for smaller DSOs.



#9 MrRoberts

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Posted 11 November 2019 - 09:19 AM

Yes I have used this combo with great results. Although the C/8 has a narrower FOV, with the added light available certain objects  will just POP (pre tape your jaw so it doesn't drop off lol.gif ) 

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#10 Peregrinatum

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Posted 26 November 2019 - 08:25 PM

Picked up one of these bad boys today off Ebay, Canon FD Nifty 50 F/1.4, still on the backorder list at UNV eta January.

 

Is there an adapter that can be used to attach a 1.25" filter on there end?

 

b5imVo7l.jpg



#11 Jeff Morgan

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Posted 26 November 2019 - 11:01 PM

Picked up one of these bad boys today off Ebay, Canon FD Nifty 50 F/1.4, still on the backorder list at UNV eta January.

 

Is there an adapter that can be used to attach a 1.25" filter on there end?

 

b5imVo7l.jpg

 

 

Congrats on the lens, I have one and they are killer!

 

No way to use 1.25" filters directly. I glued a 1.25" ring into the base of a FD->C adapter. Works fine, although space is tight.

 

You can also get a 52->48mm step down ring. It allows use of 2" filters over the front of the SLR lens. It fits both my Canon 50mm and my 135mm. My preferred method for the smaller lenses. Much more convenient and conducive to filter changes.


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#12 sunnyday

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Posted 26 November 2019 - 11:17 PM

I started my journey earlier this year. Also have the MOD3 (wht pho/filmless/with gain control). I live about 45 min drive nw of Chicago, so lots of general light pollution. I'm taking this one to my grave. What an asset. I've been using it these past couple of weeks near Tucson while visiting parents. I only keep my C-8/E and Esprit 80 here, so have been playing with it between the two scope. With the dark sky's here it really stands out even more.

I know it's not the subject of that topic.
sorry, but how do you like your Ioptron AZM Pro.
sorry, one more time

thanks 



#13 Peregrinatum

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Posted 26 December 2019 - 07:16 PM

Rich at UNV is building my tube now, will ship soon, here are the specs:

 

Resolution - 72 lp/mm
EBI - 0.6
Photo Cathode Sensitivity - 2524
SNR - 33.7
Gain - 62,835
Halo - 0.8
Blems over 0.03" = 0


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#14 GOLGO13

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Posted 26 December 2019 - 07:20 PM

Rich at UNV is building my tube now, will ship soon, here are the specs:

Resolution - 72 lp/mm
EBI - 0.6
Photo Cathode Sensitivity - 2524
SNR - 33.7
Gain - 62,835
Halo - 0.8
Blems over 0.03" = 0


That should be quite nice
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#15 BJS

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Posted 26 December 2019 - 08:34 PM

I know it's not the subject of that topic.
sorry, but how do you like your Ioptron AZM Pro.
sorry, one more time

thanks 

I have one and love it.  Works like charm...great for NV work since i can put two OTA's on it.


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#16 Peregrinatum

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 11:25 PM

I have a shipment!!!  Delivery next Monday... getting excited now.  I ordered on 11/2/19, shipped in less than 2 months and it met my specs, hopefully worth the wait.



#17 Joko

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Posted 31 December 2019 - 12:25 PM

Rich at UNV is building my tube now, will ship soon, here are the specs:

 

Resolution - 72 lp/mm
EBI - 0.6
Photo Cathode Sensitivity - 2524
SNR - 33.7
Gain - 62,835
Halo - 0.8
Blems over 0.03" = 0

Great specs, you should love it !



#18 Eddgie

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Posted 31 December 2019 - 02:23 PM

I have a shipment!!!  Delivery next Monday... getting excited now.  I ordered on 11/2/19, shipped in less than 2 months and it met my specs, hopefully worth the wait.

Excellent!  Looking forward to your reports!

 

Rich shipped my new Mod 3 yesterday and it arrived today, but I live in Austin, which is only 200 mi from Dallas, so lucky me (but then I pay sales tax so unlucky me! LOL).

 

Mine came with an f/1.4 CCTV lens.  I think it is the same a Fujian, not the Fujinon, which is a nicer but much more expensive lens and much better off axis, but it is better than getting an empty hole in the front.   I would guess though that a CCTV lens is now standard equipment. 

 

So, hopefully yours will be on time and fun to use!


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#19 Peregrinatum

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Posted 07 January 2020 - 12:29 PM

The Mod3C arrived yesterday, it did come with a 25mm CCTV lens, I didn't expect that and had already acquired a used Cosmicar 25mm F1.4 CCTV lens so I could get going wtih it.

 

edit:  first thing I did was secure it to the lanyard!

 

It wasn't dark yet, so I played around with it the dark garage, got used to using the on/off switch which seems to have two levels of intensity, and using the gain knob.  Had fun with it there.  There is a dial on the front by the eye cup, not sure what it does?

 

It was a terrible night for viewing, moon was bright and we had mist which just amplified the moon glow, compounded by the Bortle 6/7 city LP fog...  while I was doing some AP testing on SGP I would take in views during the imaging runs.... lots and lots of stars that are just not possible seeing while using the 1X Cosmicar CCTV lens, I thought I saw a few globs, took a real good look at M42 and could not see any nebulosity but that was expected...

 

I ended up ordering the ENVIS lens, as it is highly recommended for 1X widefield viewing.

 

If the clouds break up tonight I am going to use it prime focus in one of my OTAs, I have a 12" Dob, 115mm triplet refractor, and a 80mm doublet refractor, which one would give me the best views? 


Edited by Peregrinatum, 07 January 2020 - 12:40 PM.


#20 GOLGO13

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Posted 07 January 2020 - 01:05 PM

The Mod3C arrived yesterday, it did come with a 25mm CCTV lens, I didn't expect that and had already acquired a used Cosmicar 25mm F1.4 CCTV lens so I could get going wtih it.

 

edit:  first thing I did was secure it to the lanyard!

 

It wasn't dark yet, so I played around with it the dark garage, got used to using the on/off switch which seems to have two levels of intensity, and using the gain knob.  Had fun with it there.  There is a dial on the front by the eye cup, not sure what it does?

 

It was a terrible night for viewing, moon was bright and we had mist which just amplified the moon glow, compounded by the Bortle 6/7 city LP fog...  while I was doing some AP testing on SGP I would take in views during the imaging runs.... lots and lots of stars that are just not possible seeing while using the 1X Cosmicar CCTV lens, I thought I saw a few globs, took a real good look at M42 and could not see any nebulosity but that was expected...

 

I ended up ordering the ENVIS lens, as it is highly recommended for 1X widefield viewing.

 

If the clouds break up tonight I am going to use it prime focus in one of my OTAs, I have a 12" Dob, 115mm triplet refractor, and a 80mm doublet refractor, which one would give me the best views? 

did you get an Hydrogen Alpha filter yet? That makes a big difference. I suggest getting an IR pass filter of some sort also. I found 685nm was good for my situation. HA for nebulas IR pass for everything else.



#21 Eddgie

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Posted 07 January 2020 - 01:51 PM

 

 

It wasn't dark yet, so I played around with it the dark garage, got used to using the on/off switch which seems to have two levels of intensity, and using the gain knob.  Had fun with it there.  There is a dial on the front by the eye cup, not sure what it does?

 

There are three positions on the switch: Off, On, and IR On.

 

The IR on turns on a built in IR illumination and this is used for making light in either pitch black or very low illumination conditions.   When on, you should see a small red indicator at the edge of the field of the eyepiece (where will depend on the orientation, but it is right at the very edge and will require that your eye be close to the eyepiece to see).   

 

A caution here is that if you accidentally turn on the illuminator while observing and only click it one position, the device will not be off, and if you leave it this way and uncapped, it can cause you to burn in an image to your display.   In bright light, the tube is supposed to turn off in a minute, but in lower light with a very bright source like a street light, that won't happen, so you can damage your tube.    Always make sure that you are off by looking into the device before you cap it for storage. 

 

The tube can also appear to have different levels of illumination though you rarely see this in operation.  For example, you might turn on the tube and see the display very bright, then qo dim.  If the conditions are bright, the built in automatic brightness control (ABC) will automatically step the display down.  It is doing this more or less constantly, but when you first turn on the tube, if it is bright in the environment, you will see the maximum step down intensity all at once.  That is automatic though and is independent of gain.   This would appear to change the charge voltage to the phosphor screen so that it does not emit as strongly as it would with a full blast of electrons from the microchannel plate.  I do not believe that it changes the gain, only the brightness (or otherwise, wouldn't that call it automatic gain control??).

 

Make sure you double check power and cap the device when not in use. IF the cap is on it and you accidentally leave it on it will just run until the battery dies, but it will not hurt anything.   Capping is just good insurance. 

 

If you are using a PVS-14, put a piece of black electrical tape inside the cap over the training hole.  Once again, if you leave it on, even though the training hole is tiny, it is an image intensifer, and if there is a bright image on the screen for 50 hours, it could damage the screen, and will essentially shorten the life of the tube by as much as 50 hours depending on how bright the light is.  If it is in a case, then nothing will probably happen, but if it is sitting out somehwere in high ambient light, it will be essentially giving full wear to the phosphor screen.

 

IF you ever see Night Vision devices for sale on Ebay and the view in the picture shows that there are dark areas in the screen, that is a high wear screen and in time, even with good practices, the screen will eventually start to degrade (we are talking many many thousands of hours, and for astronomy, it is pretty safe bet that the tube will last a lifetime because this is a very low light environment vs looking at the cars coming by in front of your house to marvel at how bright the taillights are to NV (hint, they are as bright as the headlights, but your eye does not see them at this same brightness.  A quick check will show that both car headlights and car taillights are both about 55 watts, but the NV sees read much better than the human eye.)

 

So, be careful that you are not in On mode when you store your device, and as insurance, cap it. 


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#22 Jeff Morgan

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Posted 07 January 2020 - 02:57 PM

I ended up ordering the ENVIS lens, as it is highly recommended for 1X widefield viewing.

 

Good move, you'll forget the sting of the price in short order.


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#23 Peregrinatum

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Posted 07 January 2020 - 03:00 PM

 

 

So, be careful that you are not in On mode when you store your device, and as insurance, cap it. 

Thanks for letting me know about that and the added info, I needed to read this!



#24 Peregrinatum

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Posted 07 January 2020 - 03:03 PM

did you get an Hydrogen Alpha filter yet? That makes a big difference. I suggest getting an IR pass filter of some sort also. I found 685nm was good for my situation. HA for nebulas IR pass for everything else.

For Ha filters I have a 685 pass filter and a 6nm filter, I hope to try them tonight... my 6nm filter pulls double duty with my mono AP and I'm in the middle of shooting the Horsehead nebula right now (don't want to remove it from the imaging train so I don't have to take another set of flats), so it might a few weeks before I try it.


Edited by Peregrinatum, 07 January 2020 - 03:05 PM.


#25 Eddgie

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Posted 07 January 2020 - 04:16 PM

For Ha filters I have a 685 pass filter and a 6nm filter, I hope to try them tonight... my 6nm filter pulls double duty with my mono AP and I'm in the middle of shooting the Horsehead nebula right now (don't want to remove it from the imaging train so I don't have to take another set of flats), so it might a few weeks before I try it.

Eager to hear your result!




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