Hi again Gary, sorry I've been helping someone move house so havent been on the forum.
Glad to hear you're getting good results with your Canon and toaster. Everyones different with some finding it easy with toaster and hard with sharpcap, and other are vice versa.
*1 After you packup your nights viewing, always copy the frames in the toaster Monitor folder to another place. Not all the frames ... just the original jpg or cr4 frames from your camera. Then at any time in the future you can start up a new toaster session and copy and paste them into the Monitor folder and practise reprocessing them as many times as you want to learn and hone your settings and use. Very handy to try out different things and learn. Dont drag and drop them into the monitor folder as it will create all the temp files back in your "historic" folder. But by copying and then navigating to the Monitor folder where you paste ... it creates all the temp files in the Monitor folder which is where it should have those temp files.
*2 darks flats etc ... they'll only work in toaster if you shoot RAW. To do them there's a few ways but the best (IMO) is to do the following. EG to do darks (repeat this workflow to do flats, bias, etc)... Set EOS Utilities to save the dark in a folder NOT monitored by toaster. Then drag and drop them into toaster. On dropping them, it will ask if they are darks, bias, flats, etc select darks. You will see them in toasters filelist marked as darks. Check one of the darks as a light, then highlight them all (all darks and the one light) and in the filelist window press the Recalibrate darks button. Even though it says darks, the same button will process bias and flats if you are doing them. Anyway, on pressing it will create a Master dark/flat/bias back in the folder where you saved them from the camera. It will name the Master as Master_Dark_ISO1600_30 or whatever you shoot them at (IE iso1600 30 second) ... think the temp is in that name too (cannot recall). To use that darkframe (bias, flat etc) you simply drag it into the filelist next time you are out in the dark shooting at that iso and secs exposure and it will apply it. To save having to take heaps of darks, the filelist widow also has a Dark Frame Factor setting which is initially 1 ... ie use that darkframe as it was shot. But you can change that 1 to higher or lower numbers to increase/decrease its affect ... so if you find the temp changes during the night vastly different to when you shot them (with our uncooled Canons) you can compensate somewhat by mucking around with the setting until the warm pixels disappear (of most of them). So that saves having to shoot darks at 5 degree temp diffs.
*3 darks - addendum, depending on your model of Canon, Clarkvision says when you see warm pixels appearing do NOT turn the camera off, go into the camera menu and find sensor clean and activate it. It remaps the current bad pixel map marking the new warm pixels from shooting long exp. Do NOT turn of after doing that .... just start shooting again immediately. As if you turn off the camera it resets the bad pixel map back to factory.
*4 flats - the color adjustments window has a Lens gradient slider which does a great job of reducing vignetting. All three gradient sliders (Expand, Lens and Sky) you MUST click the Apply E/G button everytime you make and adjustment. If shooting jpegs though it sometimes blows the image out to look like way over exposed. It isn't and is easy to get around by when you see that effect just reduce the Brightness slider down heaps. It often actually leads to better images when it has the "blown out" moment compared to what you can achieve when it was still unblown.
*5 RAW processing is really easy to do using what I mentioned in *4 above. Namely, when you shoot RAW (ie CR2 for Canon) the first thing you should do is press Auto Expand button in the colour adj window. Boom, you'll see a similarly overblown kind of image. No worries, it is the best way to see vignetting so next just adjust the Lens Grad until you see a evenly grey image instead of the vignetted image. Then, same as I said in *4 above, reduce the brightness slider way down. The image should look pretty darn good right at that point. Further tweakage is up to you. Contrast slider adds heaps of noise so often reducing contrast and then adjust brightess helps reduce noise. And reducing the Exp Grad by just 1 often makes the background darker. And increasing by just 1 makes it brighter but also brings out more details. It is for these few very simple adjustments I have described in this *5 tip for RAW proccessing that I said in *4 tip about the lens gradient often blowing out jpegs .... can actually be a good (bug) .... and why it sometimes leads to better jpegs images than you first got. Because when/if the jpeg blows out, the blown image makes it easy to adjust the lens grad to get rid of vignetting, then drop the brightness, drop contrast and raise brightness correspondingly, then increase or decrease Expand Grad to bring out more detail or darken background.
*6 Dont forget as above ... if you have copied your raw frames to a historic folder then you can try all the above over and over to test and refine your processing skills at any time.
Oh yeah ... Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic SLR's all have a built in jpeg (ONLY - unfortunately!) MSNR multishot noise reduction setting. Pro photographers use this feature INSTEAD of using the normal noise reduction settings in SLR cameras. Why do they use MSNR? Because it turns off all normal NR settings and actually reduces noise by taking 4 images and stacking them in-camera. It correctly overlays detail on top of the same detail in all frames and as it can actually work hand-held it has very good capability to handle image shifts and derotation etc. It obviously means a 30 sec frame will take 2 minutes before it actually finishes in-camera and sends the single stacked frame to toasters monitor folder ... but it takes only a second or two to do the stacking. IE you can stack jpegs in toaster BTW! So on my system it takes about a minute to process each frame when stacking. So to stack 4 frames it will take 4 minutes just to stack individually using toaster, but MSNR will stack 4 almost instantly. IE 8 frames in toaster with jpegs = 8 minutes to stack, 8 frame with MSNR 1 minute (to stack the second image as first image is effectively stack of 4 and second image also a stack of 4). Faster