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Full Disc & AR2752 | Nov 18th 2019

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#1 MalVeauX

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 12:02 PM

Heya,

 

It's been raining for days and total cloud cover all through this week, but today it was cleared up for a while. Seeing was poor this morning. But I was able to get a little time on AR2752 which is still persistent. I looked at the photosphere and didn't notice any appreciable sunspot, but the activity in the chromosphere was still nice with a little mottling and a nice filament. If this persists as it approaches the limb, it could be interesting seeing it as a prominence over the active region.

 

Colored:

 

49084961778_35338262ce_b.jpg

 

 

49085238971_9ce95def9f_c.jpg

 

49085238791_c1194c68c9_c.jpg

 

B&W:

 

49085685907_1d01721757_b.jpg

 

49085450527_ef175b438d_c.jpg

 

49084729598_00ae4784f0_c.jpg

 

Earth Scale:

 

49084994033_c85c3c3c50_c.jpg

 

Very best,


Edited by MalVeauX, 18 November 2019 - 12:07 PM.

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#2 rigel123

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 12:24 PM

Great shot of AR2752!  Hope it lasts until it hits the limb!


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#3 Mike G.

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 12:28 PM

I wasn't catching any proms yesterday, now I can see they were pretty faint and with the cloud cover I had, seems reasonable.  plus, it was about 38-40 degrees and I wasn't picking up a lot of detail due to that as well.  thanks for posting what was going on!

 

Mike


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#4 MAURITS

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 02:09 PM

Excellent Marty.


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#5 RickV

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 03:38 PM

Hey Marty - nice images... but... where did those purple fringes come from?

 

Best,

Rick


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#6 MalVeauX

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 09:07 PM

I later grabbed some data for a time lapse animation at 120mm aperture to handle the day time seeing late day which is poor compared to the morning.

 

https://www.astrobin...vpna8h/0/?real=

 

Also some comparison data for resolution differences:

 

120mm aperture resolution:

 

120mm_HA_11182019.jpg

 

52mm aperture resolution:

 

52mm_Aperture_PST_290MM.jpg

 

Star party!

 

Solarsetup_Emberlynn_11182019.jpg

 

Very best,


Edited by MalVeauX, 18 November 2019 - 09:32 PM.

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#7 AstroDan2015

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 09:34 PM

Marty, You must be using an expensive set-up to achieve such fine resolution and contrast?


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#8 MalVeauX

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Posted 18 November 2019 - 09:39 PM

Marty, You must be using an expensive set-up to achieve such fine resolution and contrast?

No sir, the reality is that the seeing is the most critical part of it all. One can induce contrast in post-processing. Otherwise, high contrast from the HA filter's properties can be a thing, but even inexpensive stuff can get there. Resolution however, regardless of what instruments used, is totally at the mercy of the quality of the atmospheric seeing. I find that in my area, early morning's are my only chance for higher resolution moments and even then I don't always get to the limits of my 8 inch scope, usually not at those limits ever, probably more like a 6 inch scope in reality just based on seeing quality not being top notch. My all-day-seeing quality can handle a 120mm aperture though, at any time of day, in HA at least, so that's my "seeing ceiling" so to speak, or safe go-to for imaging during the day when seeing isn't good enough for larger. I don't have a SolarScintillationMonoitor (SSM) yet, which would help a lot with triggering sessions based on seeing, maybe one day. But I'm fairly cheap so it may be a while!

 

Fine resolution starts to really show up in that 102~127mm range, even 80mm~90mm shows virtually everything quite nicely. So an inexpensive achromatic refractor and an HA filter of your choice, such as a Quark Chromosphere, gets you there affordably. But again seeing matters the most when it comes to resolution, so imaging during the day when seeing is the worst, or if local seeing is not good to begin with, etc, are all factors that can determine how big you might want to go to chase resolution. Honestly if I had to drop everything and have a single solar scope, it would be a double-stack 90mm~100mm, such as a Solarmax 90 III (which costs more than my setup!).

 

See above post for resolution examples with associated apertures.

 

Very best,


Edited by MalVeauX, 19 November 2019 - 08:38 AM.

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#9 wargrafix

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 12:01 AM

Good job!!!
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#10 dragracingdan

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 04:14 AM

Great images! How do you get the earth scale accurately?

Best,
Dan
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#11 tholan

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 07:04 AM

Great job Marty. Where did you get the reflective material that you use on your scope and camera?

Regards,

Tom


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#12 MalVeauX

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 07:44 AM

Thanks all, bow.gif

 

How do you get the earth scale accurately?

You can calculate it, but I just take a limb shot and scale an Earth image to the limb, then reduce it by 109x. I do that with each imaging train on each scope so that I can reference back to it for simplicity after I do it once.

 

Where did you get the reflective material that you use on your scope and camera?

 

It's just reflectix,  you can get it at Home Depot / Lowes / etc. It's a heat barrier, some use it for insulating, but I use it simply to keep heat currents/plumes from rising into my scope(s) from the pier, mount head, etc, that gets really hot when exposed to direct sunlight and allows the heat to rise which can ruin local seeing quality in the tube itself. So I cover most surfaces and put a barrier around the OTA so that heat goes around it instead of right through it.

 

Very best,


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#13 rigel123

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 08:06 AM

Great comparison on the difference in resolution!


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#14 PhotonJohn

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 08:35 AM

Marty, I have watched your tutorial many times. Are you still using AutoStakkert, Registax and PS as in your video? Thanks for the beautiful images.


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#15 MalVeauX

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 08:41 AM

Marty, I have watched your tutorial many times. Are you still using AutoStakkert, Registax and PS as in your video? Thanks for the beautiful images.

Hi John,

 

No sir, I really need to re-do that, I don't do a lot of that anymore. I use Autostakkert!3 and IMPPG primarily. The rest is solely in Photoshop and even then, its mostly just clean up, shadow lifting, or gradient removal, and dodge/burning, stuff that can be done in other software likely. I also do not do two exposures anymore, I do just one exposure to handle both the surface & prominences and process from there. I don't use Registax at all now. I need to re-do the guide to better explain my work flow these days, I try to slim it down to speed things up and simplify. I'm using a different camera too, as my IMX174 sensor had issues when over-exposing (weird lines would show up), lately I'm using an ASI290MM to again simplify things, speed things up, less stuff in the imaging train to account for, etc.

 

Very best,


Edited by MalVeauX, 19 November 2019 - 08:42 AM.


#16 PhotonJohn

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 09:26 AM

Hi John,

 

No sir, I really need to re-do that, I don't do a lot of that anymore. I use Autostakkert!3 and IMPPG primarily. The rest is solely in Photoshop and even then, its mostly just clean up, shadow lifting, or gradient removal, and dodge/burning, stuff that can be done in other software likely. I also do not do two exposures anymore, I do just one exposure to handle both the surface & prominences and process from there. I don't use Registax at all now. I need to re-do the guide to better explain my work flow these days, I try to slim it down to speed things up and simplify. I'm using a different camera too, as my IMX174 sensor had issues when over-exposing (weird lines would show up), lately I'm using an ASI290MM to again simplify things, speed things up, less stuff in the imaging train to account for, etc.

 

Very best,

Thanks Marty,

 

For right now I will stick with my current set up, a Lunt double stacked LS-60THAD/B12C and ASI174mm. Your work flow is amazing with the amount of images you post. It takes me all day to produce one image. I have AutoStakkert!3, PS and will download IMPPG. I am lucky to live in central Florida for the good seeing.

 

Thanks again for responding,

                                        John 


Edited by PhotonJohn, 19 November 2019 - 09:29 AM.

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#17 descott12

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 12:46 PM

I later grabbed some data for a time lapse animation at 120mm aperture to handle the day time seeing late day which is poor compared to the morning.

 

https://www.astrobin...vpna8h/0/?real=

 

Also some comparison data for resolution differences:

 

120mm aperture resolution:

 

attachicon.gif 120mm_HA_11182019.jpg

 

52mm aperture resolution:

 

attachicon.gif 52mm_Aperture_PST_290MM.jpg

 

Star party!

 

attachicon.gif Solarsetup_Emberlynn_11182019.jpg

 

Very best,

The difference in aperture is pretty amazing. Thanks for posting. Of course that only leads to me spending more money... so maybe Is shouldn't have looked!


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#18 descott12

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 12:52 PM

Hey Marty,

For your close-ups with the 52 mm aperture, are you using a Barlow of any type or is that straight into your quark?


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#19 MalVeauX

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 01:03 PM

Hey Marty,

For your close-ups with the 52 mm aperture, are you using a Barlow of any type or is that straight into your quark?

Hey Dave,

 

Not using a barlow this go around.

 

Very best,


Edited by MalVeauX, 19 November 2019 - 01:41 PM.


#20 rigel123

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 02:55 PM

Hey Dave,

 

Not using a barlow this go around.

 

Very best,

So your FOV is due to the long f/ratio because of your extensions?



#21 MalVeauX

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 04:26 PM

So your FOV is due to the long f/ratio because of your extensions?

Small sensor, ASI290MM :)

 

Very best,



#22 rigel123

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 05:40 PM

Small sensor, ASI290MM smile.gif

 

Very best,

That has about the same specs as my Skyris236M and I need a 2X telenegative to get a similar FOV with my Lunt 60mm, so I would have to think that your extensions do the same as my telenegative, or am I totally thinking this wrong?  Without a 2X telenegative I get over half the sun in my FOV on my Skyris with the 60mm Lunt.  Oops, or that is a really tight crop.


Edited by rigel123, 19 November 2019 - 05:42 PM.


#23 MalVeauX

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 05:49 PM

That has about the same specs as my Skyris236M and I need a 2X telenegative to get a similar FOV with my Lunt 60mm, so I would have to think that your extensions do the same as my telenegative, or am I totally thinking this wrong?  Without a 2X telenegative I get over half the sun in my FOV on my Skyris with the 60mm Lunt.  Oops, or that is a really tight crop.

I'm using a 600mm focal length and 2,000mm focal length for the above, with the 290MM sensor. The full disc was a mosaic of 6 panels with lots of overlap.

 

Very best,



#24 tholan

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Posted 20 November 2019 - 07:20 AM

Thanks for the info Marty. I'll pick some up.

Regards,

Tom


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#25 MalVeauX

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Posted 20 November 2019 - 12:07 PM

Sadly it seems AR2752 is eroding rapidly... barely anything left, just remnants of some plage.

 

Very best,




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