I have a Lightbridge 12" like yours, and I've tried collimation cap, shorty Cheshire, long Cheshire sight-tube combo, laser collimator (with and without barlow), and star collimation on Polaris.
After weighing the pros and cons, I use a collimation cap if there is enough daylight, or the shorty Cheshire and red light shining to the side into the cut-out if it is too dark. Then I touch it up if necessary on Polaris. My results have become much more consistent and are achieved in a shorter amount of time. I have abandoned the laser collimator all together.
On the Lightbridge, I put colored rubber bands on two of the trusses so that I put the same trusses in the same slots each time. Then I tighten the bottom and top screws in the same order each time. I have found that by doing these two things, the amount of work I need to do to collimate each time is significantly reduced.
I replaced the stock primary springs with some stiffer ones, and this goes a long way to keeping the collimation for the whole session and allows minimal movement when transporting the scope.
Also I tightened the screws that hold the dark metal lip of the top and bottom tubes. They were slightly loose, and as the scope changed altitude, the flex in those loose connections was a major source of de-collimation. Two minute job that improved the consistency of the scope a lot.