I see no reason for you to remove the secondary if the scope was bought new and never disassembled, and the Bob's Knobs were replaced one by one as directed.
T-ara-fan's leveling is an option for sure, but I'd try the thread and count first.
The risk to the secondary coating is very high, and one has to be prepared with pecpads and a safe resting place for the assembly, just in case. Never give in to temptation to try and clean it. I am fortunate to have a special drop in storage housing from a scope cooler.
If anyone does remove the secondary puck from their removable housing, remember the alignment marks!
The OP will have it easier with the keyed housing.
The etched tiny numbers on the corrector plate (not removed here, so not an issue), the Sharpie marker stripe on the side of the secondary mirror glass, and, usually, the grub/set screw 'key' on the housing all line up at the 3 o'clock position, viewed from the corrector plate end. This is the side opposite the focuser knob.
Lost rotational alignments have destroyed sharpness in many scopes, including my second hand C11, very soft images, now restored, collimated from total disassembly using the count the threads, followed by the seated Casady and then a star tweak. Very sharp now. When I return to Arizona next week I'll test it further.
That scope had the ultimate failure to read the Bob's Knobs instrutions- all three removed at once, and the puck rotated within the keyed housing when it was reinstalled. And then they took the corrector off . . .
Edited by markb, 13 December 2019 - 02:00 PM.