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Baader zoom eyepiece hitting knurled screws?

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#1 N6GQ

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 12:53 PM

Hi all, noob here, apologies if this has been addressed but a search doesn't bring anything that I can find.

 

I have a Celestron 6SE in stock form. I just bought a Baader Hyperion Mark IV zoom eyepiece to use on it. 

 

I see that they have pre-installed the "B-ring" on the eyepiece which is supposed to lift the eyepiece up 4mm to clear the little knurled screws that hold the eyepiece in place. In my case however, it doesn't clear those knurled screws - those screws hit the bottom of the eyepiece.

 

Am I missing something stupid? Probably, but it just seems like its inherently incompatible in its current form. 

 

I guess my option is to just lift the EP enough to clear the screws to allow me to tighten then and then compensate the distance with the focuser? Or, allow the EP to rest on top the knurled screws? I'm just curious what others do in this situation. Its cloudy here so I haven't gotten a chance to actually try it out and see...

 

Thanks for any pointers.


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#2 junomike

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 01:10 PM

I'd raise the EP slightly.  Can you post a pic as the 4mm clearance in this pic (scroll until you see B-Adapter) easily clears the bottom of the EP.



#3 Jon Isaacs

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 01:25 PM

N6GO:

 

Hello and :welcome: to Cloudy Nights.

 

I think you're on top of it. I've have similar situations, I generally do what you've suggested.

 

One possibility is to go to a hardware store and see if you can buy a longer thumscrew that will clear the eyepiece. Or it's possible AgenaAstro or Scopestuff have one.

 

Jon


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#4 N6GQ

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 01:32 PM

Good call - here are pictures of the EP with and without the screws in place. 

Without the screws, the EP sits approximately 1-2mm lower I'd guesstimate. 

 

Is that 1-2mm enough to cause issues, or is that something that is roundoff error for the focuser?

 

 

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#5 N6GQ

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 01:41 PM

As near as I can tell, those are M4-0.7 screws, so maybe I'll just grab some allen-head M4-0.7 screws at Home Depot and see if that works better for now...they have thread lengths I can try and have knurling on the end, although probably not as  nicely round as the stock Celestron ones. We'll see.



#6 JohnBear

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 02:50 PM

Thanks for the post. I have a Badder Mark III due to arrive this afternoon, so I'll be prepared if it has a similar problem. 

The pictures really help clarify - 10k+ words worth!



#7 ButterFly

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 02:53 PM

Certainly keep the screw on for safety.  It can get annoying with gloves on, but raising it can cause focusing problems.  These eyepieces are very tight on backfocus (they like to be closer to the objective).  If you can focus with the eyepiece raised, and as long as it's securely held, there shouldn't be a problem.  Try focusing on something a few miles away during the daytime to judge how much inward travel of the focuser is left.  A longer screw is just much more convenient.



#8 N6GQ

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 02:59 PM

Thanks guys - I think I can seat it down with just some different adjuster screws - 0.50 cent fix :) 

 

@johnbear, good luck with your new EP.



#9 houndsbourgh

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 03:04 PM

If you purchase screws in the hardware section be sure to prep the end that touches the eyepiece. Some of the ends can be quite gnarly and tear into your eyepiece. When I make set screws myself I dome and prep the end with some 220 grit paper. If possible finish off with 400 or even 600 grit. To get fancy I add a modified brass knurled lamp knob. When I am back in the shop I will get a couple pictures up.


Edited by houndsbourgh, 17 January 2020 - 03:10 PM.

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#10 N6GQ

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 03:11 PM

Good c

 

If you purchase screws in the hardware section be sure to prep the end that touches the eyepiece. Some of the ends can be quite gnarly and tear into your eyepiece. When I make set screws myself I dome and prep the end with some 220 grit paper. If possible finish off with 400 or even 600 grit. To get fancy I add a modified brass knurled lamp knob. When I am back in the shop I will get a couple pictures up.

Good call! I'll buy a bit of prep materials at the same time!



#11 houndsbourgh

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 03:52 PM

8-32 is the common brass knurled knob. Eyepiece set screws are metric. So if you want the brass end a 4mm tap will be needed as well. Just run the knob over the tap. The treading will be a little sloppy but no worries. Use the 4mm bolt of your liking and set the knob on one end with thread locker. After it dries cut the original head off and prep the end. I have taken to installing the knob upside down and removing the hourglass shaped portion as well. What’s left is a nice thin low profile knob. I hate dragging my fingers all over the focuser or diagonal switching eyepieces so the ones I make are extra long. Helps with gloves in cold weather.

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Edited by houndsbourgh, 17 January 2020 - 04:05 PM.

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#12 houndsbourgh

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 05:28 PM

A few from my spare parts box.

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#13 N6GQ

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Posted 17 January 2020 - 05:30 PM

A few from my spare parts box.

Nice work!




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