Pretty sure that's an Alt/Az mount, which means that long exposures (even 30 seconds) will have problems with field rotation. Shorten the exposures as much as you can, raising the ISO on the camera to compensate, and note that individual images ("subs") will tend to be kind of dark and not show all the detail. That will come with better processing. Higher ISO will result in more noise and lower dynamic range, but you can take more exposures (total time is what counts) and do some bracketing of the exposures (needed for Orion in any case) to feed HDR processing. Try to accumulate tens to hundreds of subs that will get stacked together with a program such as Deep Sky Stacker (a free astro imaging tool).
Investments. Better imaging will come from a "GEM" (German Equatorial Mount), which has the main rotation axis mechanically adjusted to be the same as that of the Earth (angled up at your latitude). That should be your first investment. Then I'd look to an autoguiding solution (guide scope, camera, and some compute platform). That will provide a closed-loop tracking of the sky, and give you the ability to drop the ISO back down and raise the exposure times, so you can go after a much larger set of deep sky targets. The scope and camera, actually, aren't as important as getting a really stable lock on the sky's motion.
The GEM mounts also have a much wider range of adjustments for balancing the telescope, camera, and accessories, which will greatly improve your tracking. In this hobby, microns count. You need to adopt a zen-like focus on stability and precision in all things, and making sure nothing moves that shouldn't be moving, even in the slightest. I find it it's freaking amazing what this equipment can do when properly configured and used.