So after i managed to get the guiding to work now it became more fun for imaging, and although the sky isn't much clear here for several days but we got few nights with clear sky so i tried something as well, and now i have new plans and also questions so i can try my best for next time, i am waiting the summer because it has more clear skies regardless the humidity and heat, and Cygnus alone has LOTS of targets that will keep me busy the whole summer.
So, let's start the questions and plans to see how it will help me.
1. What is your choice for plate solving, a dedicated software or a built-in one such in SGPro? I don't know what exactly i need for making that P.S. working perfectly and getting me to the target i was doing exactly, although i can get to that target i need without any issues, maybe it won't be very accurate 100% in same position but i can center it as much as i can, so not sure if PS in this case is needed, for another setup it will make it easier.
2. I was using a lens, and for the bad luck it was at wide open [F/2.8], so that it will have issue on stars, and that is why i didn't post the result because it sounds it is about the stars not about the target itself, so i want to see how can i solve that wit a lens, to stop it down only? Or i just shoot wide open and don't care about stars at all?
3. Guiding is working nicely now, i tested 10min exposure and it works, so is it really necessary to make it even more complicated and got for much longer than 10min exposures for any reason? I am not a good guy in reading or measuring things such as SNR and ADU and those things YET, so if i have to know those it means i have to stop imaging until i understand then try again, should i or i keep imaging anyway?
4. I returned back to use my 36mm NB Optolong filters, and i really don't know why, but SII getting much worse results than OIII, i mean i see much more gradients on SII data or frames than with OIII, and i though that OIII is the worst, so what's going on? I do have OIII 3nm but because i don't have the filter wheel for 1.25" and also i am still planning to get that SII 3nm later so i am back to use 7nm/6.5nm SHO filters anyway.
5. Is there any option for having an autofocuser or a motor for lenses that is working great without issues? If i am planning to have autofocuser for my scopes then i like to have that for lenses too.
6. On Facebook i did ask something as i wanted to have more likers there with answers than technical experts answers here which may put me completely lost, but i will ask it anyway, i do have one mono camera which is QHY163M, so happy with it, now after managing that guiding and starting to have fun i decided to buy another COOLED camera, but i am into few options here as following:
a. Buying same mono camera i have either QHY163M or better ASI1600MM because their filter wheel is better accommodating 1.25" and cheaper, while with QHY163M i have to buy their filter wheel as they have short adapter to make the camera closer to the filter wheel so closer to filters, but i am still not sure if their Standard version of FW is ok for 1.25", and then the back focus, ZWO solved this issue perfectly.
b. Buying a color camera same model of my mono camera, so i use it for RGB and using mono for NB then combine them later
c. Buying a mono camera different than my camera regardless which scope, because i don't have one scope or optics to use, so is it good to have different just in case to match that sampling thing maybe?
d. Buying a color camera different than my camera model, such as 071MC/294MC or 367C[or QHY FF/APS-C] and something like that, i keep seeing nice results from people using color cameras even under bad LP Bortle skies, and i do have a 2" LP filter that maybe it can help slightly
I did ask on this forum before about using achromatic refractor vs. APO because with using 2 cameras let's say mono i can use each scope or lens for one filter to collect, so definitely i am focusing each perfectly as possible, thus i asked, is it is really necessary for an APO as i will never stop my plan for Tak FSQ so i wanted something very very cheap cheaper than $500 ref scope which won't be a waste after i am getting that Tak FSQ and not selling it.
I really really hope to get into this very serious and start to produce nicer results, i wasted almost 2 years before without figuring out the guiding and that alone did ruin most of my imaging really, was a very stupid small silly mistake or fault that it is fixed now and won't make same mistake again at all, so that i am trying to put the best i can and buy few things to make life easier for me or quicker, this astro imaging is never easy, and from Bortle 8/9 sky it is even much more difficult and challenging, and i always read or hear about doing hours and hours of single target, so i have to go with multiple cameras then to save time for collecting data as possible, let's see how do you think about it in that case.