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Cave Astrola 12.5" Model D

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166 replies to this topic

#26 Chuck Hards

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Posted 13 March 2020 - 11:24 AM

Does anybody know what the off-white paint color is called for the OTA?

The tubes were gelcoated, not painted, and it was done prior to forming on the mandrel.  Judging by the cracking I see on these, the shop that made these was thinning their gelcoat with acetone instead of styrene monomer.  Cheaper but doesn't allow full polymerization and excessive cracking and shrinkage is the result.

 

You will have to have an automotive paint shop color match the old gelcoat.  Modern whites are much brighter than they were 50 years ago.


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#27 RDFox

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Posted 13 March 2020 - 11:54 AM

Chuck, thanks. Every bit of info helps me a lot!



#28 Chuck Hards

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Posted 13 March 2020 - 12:02 PM

I sold a 12. 5" Cave Observatory Model D, two years ago.  I still have my 10" Custom Chrome Super Deluxe, and 6" Student Deluxe.  I want to re-gelcoat both tubes sometime soon.  


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#29 RDFox

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Posted 13 March 2020 - 03:12 PM

Got a question. Looking for Gelcoat, what does “with wax” and “No wax” mean?

#30 Chuck Hards

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 12:38 AM

Answered in PM.

 

On your tube, can you see the weave of the underlying fiberglass cloth printing-through the gel coat?


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#31 Jeff B

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 12:03 PM

A cool project!  Great work!

 

If the old finish is the original, the mount and rotating rings were perhaps made by Serge Valve, a machining and assembly vendor for Cave before Cave folded.  The hints for me are the blue paint and the fact that the Astrola name has not been ground off of the DEC casting.   After Cave folder, Serge was stuck with a bunch of inventory and after I tracked him down, he made 8-9 mounts for us at Astronomy New England, including a couple of the big Observatory Series mounts, of which I still have a sample.  He insisted on grinding off any reference to Cave on the castings.  But they all had a paint scheme just like yours.

 

Is there a date on the mirror?

 

Jeff


Edited by Jeff B, 14 March 2020 - 12:05 PM.


#32 clamchip

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 12:29 PM

This 10 inch came from Astronomy New England.

It also has Astronomy New England penned on the back of the primary.

I'm not sure if it was built there, but it came from there.

Robert

 

post-50896-0-71383300-1451790392_thumb.jpg


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#33 RDFox

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 01:21 PM

Some more pictures.

Drive end.jpg IMG_4094.jpg


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#34 RDFox

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 01:27 PM

IMG_4098.jpg Pins.jpg



#35 RDFox

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 01:28 PM

IMG_4092.jpg


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#36 CHASLX200

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 02:24 PM

This 10 inch came from Astronomy New England.

It also has Astronomy New England penned on the back of the primary.

I'm not sure if it was built there, but it came from there.

Robert

 

attachicon.gifpost-50896-0-71383300-1451790392_thumb.jpg

Best mount ever made. Loved my old 1.5" Edmund.


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#37 macdonjh

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 03:25 PM

Careful if you're using stainless nuts on those stainless threaded rods.  Stainless on stainless can gall, even with almost no load (it happened to me), seizing the fastener.  You might want to use galvanized nuts (or brass).



#38 RDFox

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 06:56 PM

I appreciate your thoughts, but I’m tightening them against what is an aluminum tube. So they’re not really tight at all. I was thinking about corrosion on the threads mating up with the soft aluminum on the legs. Didn’t want damage the threads. I had to chase the threads with a die before I could remove them. But after you brought that up now I’m thinking and it hurts. Lol

Edited by RDFox, 14 March 2020 - 06:57 PM.


#39 Chuck Hards

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 01:36 AM

Just use some anti-seize compound on all threads.  It's a good idea anyway. 


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#40 Jeff B

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 10:29 AM

This 10 inch came from Astronomy New England.

It also has Astronomy New England penned on the back of the primary.

I'm not sure if it was built there, but it came from there.

Robert

 

attachicon.gifpost-50896-0-71383300-1451790392_thumb.jpg

That is sooo cool Robert!  

 

Did the entire assembly, including the mount come from us?  We did assemble some Newt OTAs and complete scopes from inventory at the store, if anything, to reduce the amount of space they took up.   

 

I do remember getting in, reluctantly, on trade or consignment, a couple of those big Edmund mounts.  I say reluctantly because they are HEAVY, making shipping very tough, and typically lacked an RA drive.  Also, at that time in the mid 80's, everybody wanted an SCT and it was difficult to sell those larger newts so trade in and retail prices for them were very low...but real bargains too.  However, the old RV6 and the Meade 6"f8 (Model 628) and 8"f6 (Model 826) still sold very well and were typically of high quality too, especially the Meades...a line of scopes they got right.

 

Jeff



#41 RDFox

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 11:09 AM

Tube.jpg tube2.jpg Argh!!!

 



#42 RDFox

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 12:33 PM

Just use some anti-seize compound on all threads.  It's a good idea anyway. 

Great Idea. Will do.



#43 clamchip

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 12:37 PM

That is sooo cool Robert!  

 

Did the entire assembly, including the mount come from us?  We did assemble some Newt OTAs and complete scopes from inventory at the store, if anything, to reduce the amount of space they took up.   

 

I do remember getting in, reluctantly, on trade or consignment, a couple of those big Edmund mounts.  I say reluctantly because they are HEAVY, making shipping very tough, and typically lacked an RA drive.  Also, at that time in the mid 80's, everybody wanted an SCT and it was difficult to sell those larger newts so trade in and retail prices for them were very low...but real bargains too.  However, the old RV6 and the Meade 6"f8 (Model 628) and 8"f6 (Model 826) still sold very well and were typically of high quality too, especially the Meades...a line of scopes they got right.

 

Jeff

Yes the whole thing.

Astronomy New England list from 10/30/81 #5015 10" with massive Edmund mount and drive $995

I bought it from the Battle Point Astronomical Assoc. here on Bainbridge Island WA in 2009

 

Robert


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#44 Mr Magoo

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 04:06 PM

Answered in PM.

 

On your tube, can you see the weave of the underlying fiberglass cloth printing-through the gel coat?

I can see the weave on my OTA. What does that signify Chuck?



#45 RDFox

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Posted 15 March 2020 - 08:37 PM

Ok, it’s time for the important stuff. Can somebody direct me to the proper method for cleaning the primary mirror. Mine seems to be really dirty. And it has a couple of pits or imperfections in it, is this normal?



#46 Jeff B

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 12:25 PM

Ok, it’s time for the important stuff. Can somebody direct me to the proper method for cleaning the primary mirror. Mine seems to be really dirty. And it has a couple of pits or imperfections in it, is this normal?

How about some "before" pictures of the mirror first so we can see whats on it.  That may drive the specifics of the cleaning method.  Also, a shot from the back of the mirror facing a strong light source, like a bare light bulb, will reveal areas of damaged and missing coatings. 

 

Say, the tube in the picture above, post #41, is much shorter than the picture of the main tube in the first picture.  Was there another, smaller reflector included?  

 

I'm really enjoying your thread.

 

Jeff



#47 Jeff B

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 12:29 PM

Yes the whole thing.

Astronomy New England list from 10/30/81 #5015 10" with massive Edmund mount and drive $995

I bought it from the Battle Point Astronomical Assoc. here on Bainbridge Island WA in 2009

 

Robert

Thanks Robert!  That was before my time there.  I partnered with owner Gene Mallove from ~1984 to 1987, before moving back to Ohio. 

 

Jeff



#48 Chuck Hards

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 12:37 PM

I can see the weave on my OTA. What does that signify Chuck?

Probably means that it's the original finish.  When people sand these down for repaint, they usually eliminate the weave print-through on the gelcoat.  


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#49 RDFox

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 12:47 PM

Anybody know how this comes apart? 60mm Spotter Scope.

spotter2.jpg spotter4.jpg spotter1.jpg spotter3.jpg



#50 RDFox

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 12:50 PM

How about some "before" pictures of the mirror first so we can see whats on it.  That may drive the specifics of the cleaning method.  Also, a shot from the back of the mirror facing a strong light source, like a bare light bulb, will reveal areas of damaged and missing coatings. 

 

Say, the tube in the picture above, post #41, is much shorter than the picture of the main tube in the first picture.  Was there another, smaller reflector included?  

 

I'm really enjoying your thread.

 

Jeff

The smaller one is the pier. For some reason all of my text didn't get in the post.


Edited by RDFox, 16 March 2020 - 12:51 PM.



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