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FD 03-31

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#1 MAURITS

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 07:20 AM

Seeing good this time.
ASI 120 MM-S
Lunt DS 60/35

NO signs of horizontal line this time.

 

09_54_35  Grey.jpg

 

09_55_38 color.jpg

 

 


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#2 BeltofOrion

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 07:23 AM

Looks very nice! No sign of that AR which was coming into view?


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#3 dhkaiser

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 07:58 AM

Shows the proms well.  The upper half seems sharper than the lower half?


Edited by dhkaiser, 31 March 2020 - 07:59 AM.

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#4 rigel123

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 08:48 AM

Nice catch!  Those proms seem to be continuing from yesterday!  Cloudy here today.


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#5 MalVeauX

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 08:56 AM

Lovely discs Maurits!

 

Very best,


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#6 MAURITS

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 09:06 AM

Shows the proms well.  The upper half seems sharper than the lower half?

You are absolutely right Dan, I have seen it too.



#7 dhkaiser

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 09:57 AM

You are absolutely right Dan, I have seen it too.

I'm having the same problem, not sure if I am off band or out of the sweet spot.


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#8 statfreak

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 10:14 AM

Great image, Maurits.

 

 

Now that it was mentioned, I can see how the bottom is softer than the top.

I'm having the same problem, not sure if I am off band or out of the sweet spot.

Is that what causes this?


Edited by statfreak, 31 March 2020 - 10:14 AM.

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#9 mikerepp

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 10:21 AM

Very nice disc.   Great job!


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#10 BeltofOrion

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 11:22 AM

Shows the proms well.  The upper half seems sharper than the lower half?

It certainly is a problem at times.


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#11 BeltofOrion

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 12:01 PM

I'm having the same problem, not sure if I am off band or out of the sweet spot.

How does everyone find the sweet spot anyway ... or try to find it? I use the hand control of the mount to move the sun around to different places on the computer screen. I certainly wish the SolarMax had a wireless ... or even wired focuser. I think Zwo makes one which might work. But even more so, I like to have some way to control the knurled tuning wheels on the scope ... well, just one of them really ... without having to reach up and across the scope to do it. Trying to do that while keeping an eye on the computer screen is very awkward at times ... depending on the orientation of the scope. I've toyed with the idea of using a stepper motor. Don't know if anyone has done something like that or would know how to do it?


Edited by BeltofOrion, 31 March 2020 - 12:03 PM.

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#12 jwestervelt

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 12:54 PM

Maurits, admittedly your device is considerably better than mine, as are your processing skills, but I do feel compelled to bring something to your attention here.  That first image you posted, the monochrome version, does indeed show horizontal banding.  Maybe my eyes are just exceptionally keen to pick up on such artifacts, but I see evidence of horizontal bands in that image, especially if I click and look at the full resolution version.  Strangely enough, the colorized version lacks this artifact... granted it COULD be jpeg artifacts, but I see that as well, mainly around your watermark in the lower right, and in the lower half of the disk where the luminosity and detail seem to be attenuated slightly.  The horizontal lines mid-disk, however, look strangely familiar to me, especially since I'm working to resolve a particular issue with my own camera.

It's a lot to ask, but if you could grab a .SER sequence containing just a single image to keep the size low, preferrably at 16-bit, I would be interested in looking at it.  To give you background, every monochrome camera based upon a Sony EXMOR sensor that I have looked at has had a similar "feature".  Despite being monochrome, these cameras tend to behave as if they have a Bayer mask in place.  If I break the monochrome image into 4 separate images, red, blue, and both greens, I see the same pattern every time.  The "red" pixels are all considerably over-exposed, and the "blue" ones are under-exposed.

r0 average: 14944    ~149% of green
g0 average: 9997
g1 average: 10019
b0 average: 9916     ~99% of green

So far I've seen an identical behavior from IMX178, IMX183, and IMX290 cameras.  The numbers above are slightly exaggerated because they are raw captures from my IMX178 camera, and apparently FireCap and SharpCap do some "manipulation" of the data to tame this to an extent... but the fix only appears to be done to the "red" channel as "blue" remains unchanged.

r0 average: 13702     ~114% of green
g0 average: 11990
g1 average: 12004
b0 average: 11895    ~99% of green

 


Edited by jwestervelt, 31 March 2020 - 01:10 PM.

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#13 MAURITS

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 01:45 PM

How does everyone find the sweet spot anyway ... or try to find it? I use the hand control of the mount to move the sun around to different places on the computer screen. I certainly wish the SolarMax had a wireless ... or even wired focuser. I think Zwo makes one which might work. But even more so, I like to have some way to control the knurled tuning wheels on the scope ... well, just one of them really ... without having to reach up and across the scope to do it. Trying to do that while keeping an eye on the computer screen is very awkward at times ... depending on the orientation of the scope. I've toyed with the idea of using a stepper motor. Don't know if anyone has done something like that or would know how to do it?

I used in the past a stepper motor, with a lot of steps and because all these steps I couldn't find a good focus (too much steps).

I put back my original handfocusser and it's more easy to find good focus. 


Edited by MAURITS, 31 March 2020 - 01:49 PM.

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#14 BeltofOrion

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 01:57 PM

I used in the past a stepper motor, with a lot of steps qnd because all these steps I couldn't find a good focus (too much steps).

I put back my original handfocusser and it's more easy to gind good focus. 

The focuser is secondary in this instance for me, Maurits. It's the tuning wheels I'd like to have some way to control with possibly stepper motors.

 

By the way, I have the MicroTouch Autofocuser (wireless/wired) for my Celestron 1100 and I find it works great. In fact, with that rig everything can be controlled inside ... slewing, focusing, camera.  With the SolarMax, except for the camera, I have to be right alongside. Which, except for the cold is not much of a problem, but it would be a LOT easier to tune if I had some way to just look at the computer screen and press a few buttons instead of having to reach up and over the scope while trying to keep my head inside the box where I keep my laptop sheltered from the sun's glare.


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#15 MAURITS

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 06:30 AM

Thanks again for the nice comments.




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