3609 replies to this topic

[N7GTB]

...some final. The 'legs' as corner supports, sort of a mock up to check the fit, and decide if I like...they're a bit clunky, but seem to do the job.

 

 

...a view down the barrel, with the primary cell resting on the bottom set of legs.

 

 

Once constructed the inside will be painted black, of course.

 

I'm working on a mod of the legs, to hold one of the vertical supports (1 1/4" O.D. Aluminum tube) for the upper section (i.e., off-axis secondary, corrector lenses and cell, focuser, etc).

 

...as if the thing wasn't clunky enough...one is currently being printed now. Cura says 13+ hours to complete. Thankfully I only need two.

 

 

Vern

 

 

[thecelloronin]

So, I've got a decloaked eyepiece I'd like to "recloak" with a 3D printed sheath. Is it possible within Fusion 360 to replicate this ridged texture on the OD of the Terminagler/Panoptic? Printer is a Prusa i3 mk3.

 

 

 

[cucubits]

So, I've got a decloaked eyepiece I'd like to "recloak" with a 3D printed sheath. Is it possible within Fusion 360 to replicate this ridged texture on the OD of the Terminagler/Panoptic? Printer is a Prusa i3 mk3.

 

Yes, it's possible and quite easy to do. Search for tutorials on knurling. This is a good one: https://knowledge.au...e9dc9fafb1.html

[cucubits]

Drew up a simple and very compact power distribution box. I'm making all my wiring and I've been working with xt60 connectors for a long time on many little projects.

 

I know there are a few similar ones on thingiverse already but none of those fit my specific needs. I wanted 5 ports (I use two separate rails and this will cover only one), and I wanted it to be more compact than the ones I found.

 

[kw6562]

3D printed solar filter holder.  I had some solar foil left over from the 2017 eclipse and thought I'd print a holder for the little Orion 127mm Mak.  After modifying my printer I printed it in ABS instead of PLA+.  This is a pic of the parts with the foil epoxied to the support ring:

 

\

 

And this is the model section:

 

 

 

[kw6562]

Pic of it installed:

 

 

 

The eyepiece turret is also printed. I'm planning to show it at Stellafane, then at some point soon I'll post the files and instructions.  Clear skies --Keith

[Yooper_]

I picked up an XT8i and printed an adapter to mount the Starsense Explorer phone mount to it. I'd have preferred to print it in two pieces but my print bed wasn't large enough so I did serrations and went with 4. Internally it still uses the OEM locking tabs. 

 

 

Edited by Yooper_, 28 July 2021 - 06:22 AM.

[firemachine69]

Does anyone here have access to a Markforge printer that uses the metal filament? 

[Dale Eason]

https://www.thingive...m/thing:4920959

 

A case for a Raspbery PI 4 with HD cmount camera.  When attached to a telescope it can be used to plate solve the location of the image to show SkySafari where the telescope is pointing.

 

Software for the camera and PI can be found at https://github.com/githubdoe/skysolve.

 

 

 

 

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[jprideaux]

I want to 3D print a step-down ring male M56x.75 to female m55x.75 that is similar in function to the following but going down to just 55mm instead of 48mm.  

 

https://agenaastro.c...apter-m-11.html

 

I was able to find SLT files for something similar to what I want from thingiverse but not the particular size I need.

 

https://www.thingive...m/thing:3552776

 

Does anyone have any recommendations of where to look to see if I can find an already-made SLT file?

Or alternatively, can anyone recommend some modeling software where I could create my own SLT file for this kind of device?  I have not yet modeled anything from scratch.  I've only thus-far used SLT files that others have designed.  I have the very modest Ender-3 printer.

 

The reason for wanting this peculiar size is that I have the Orion 2x54mm ultra-wide-angle binoculars and these have 56mmx.75 female threads at the objectives where filters would need to go.  I want to experiment with putting standard 55mm polarizing filters on them for daytime "looking at clouds".  If I used the commercially available 56mm to 48mm ring and then use standard 2" astronomy filters, that would crop out a bit more of the binocular aperture than I would ideally want causing me to lose some field-of-view for this binocular design.

 

Edit.  I did find this which might give me ideas for doing my own design:

https://ithoughtheca...-filter-adapter

Edited by jprideaux, 31 July 2021 - 09:45 AM.

[BoriSpider]

Youmagine.com is an stl hub that Ultamaker put together along the lines of MakerBot's Thingiverse.com. You could search there.

Blender is a free 3d modeling software the exports stls and even has a 3d printing "toolbox" that's good at making sure your model is manifold and can even tell you what overhangs might be difficult to print.

[Dale Eason]

I recently tried to print a screw in lens cap for 52 mm .75 threads for my Nikon camera lens.   I tried using PETG and my Prusa MK3S+ printer.

 

After many failed attempts to get the thread able to screw into the lens I finally gave up.   I used Fusion360 and added thread .xml files as described by a couple of posts and youtube video for that purpose.   https://www.youtube....h?v=wanx86HVGwI

 

 

 I even tried using a layer height of .05 mm.   But with my .4mm nozzle I don't think it is possible to print them good enough.   I wonder if anyone has had success.

 

My goal was to print and adapter to a larger Nikon lens to take the 2 inch (48mm) eyepiece filter.

 

Dale

[jprideaux]

I used the free openscad program to design a step-down ring going to an existing 52mm filter that I had and it kind-of works.

I just used some white PLA  that I had.  Black would be better and I will re-print them if I buy some more black.

 

Below is the script I ended up with.

include <threads.scad>

$fa=1;
$fs=0.4;
union() {
translate([0,0,2.4]) 
  difference() {
    cylinder(2,29,29);
    translate([0,0,-.1])  
      metric_thread(52, 0.75 ,4);  // where I removed , internal=true
  }

  difference() {
    metric_thread(56, 0.75 ,2.5);
      translate([0,0,-.2])
        cylinder(4,25.5,25.5);
  }
}

And a picture of it in use.

 

 

The male side threaded into the binoculars fine but my filter part may have cross-threaded into the female side.  I'm not sure.  But it does hold it together and was effectively a zero-cost part since I already had the printer and a spool of PLA. 

 

I'm printing the other one now for the other side.

 

Next, I will tweak the design to allow for using 55mm polarizing filters which is what I really want for these binoculars but I also need to order those filters.  I first wanted to see if I could 3D print something that would most likely work.

 

Edit:  On a hunch, I'm going to print a different one with removing that "internal=true" parameter.  It might be that those threads are reversed with that parameter and that is why that side seemed to get cross-threaded.  I'll report back later today (or tomorrow) once I've had a chance to try that.

 

Edit#2  After printing another one with removing the "internal=true" parameter, it seemed to work better so I edited the script above as well to remove that parameter.

Edited by jprideaux, 31 July 2021 - 09:39 PM.

[BoriSpider]

Good to see OpenScad getting some love.

[jprideaux]

Good to see OpenScad getting some love.

It seems to lock up a lot on my computer and I often need to kill the program in task-manager. But the price is right (free) and it easy to use. So I “kind-of” love it.

 

Edit.  Since this thread is not really optimal for a discussion of any one particular 3d-printing subject, if you are interested in the particulars of 3D-printing step-down rings for the Orion 2x54 binoculars, consult the following posting:

 

https://www.cloudyni...ngle-binoculars

 

One other tip.  With openSCAD, I've learned that it matters what monitor you bring it up in.  My laptop computer uses 3 monitors (one native and two others) and it always seems to hang-up when I bring it up in one of of my non-native monitors.  I haven't tried the other non-native one.  But it seems stable when I bring it up in my laptop's native monitor.  Something to keep in mind of you are experiencing openSCAD hanging up 

Edited by jprideaux, 01 August 2021 - 07:07 PM.

[AlMuz]

In continuation to my previous post on 3D-printed EQ mount for heavier loads (8"..10" telescopes).

https://www.cloudyni...omy/?p=11081314

 

I finally got back my larger 3D printer working again, and it has been running 3 days non-stop.

 

Things slowly coming to life:

 

Lower base block which attaches mount to a tripod is a hardest piece, it wrapped terribly so I will have to retprint it before mounting a real scope.

The are is a problem of small area of a retaining nut into which a tripod screw goes in, it might pull through plastic but I beliave into a strength of Nylon.

So far here is a short video of me trying to make sense of OnStep configuration:

https://photos.app.g...1VuGpejv7Aqjv47

Edited by AlMuz, 04 August 2021 - 09:16 AM.

[dbrb]

Dale,

You might just put a taper .5-.8° on the threaded surface and don't worry about a specific thread. Let it just bite into the aluminum.

 

I recently tried to print a screw in lens cap for 52 mm .75 threads for my Nikon camera lens.   I tried using PETG and my Prusa MK3S+ printer.

 

After many failed attempts to get the thread able to screw into the lens I finally gave up.   I used Fusion360 and added thread .xml files as described by a couple of posts and youtube video for that purpose.   https://www.youtube....h?v=wanx86HVGwI

 

 

 I even tried using a layer height of .05 mm.   But with my .4mm nozzle I don't think it is possible to print them good enough.   I wonder if anyone has had success.

 

My goal was to print and adapter to a larger Nikon lens to take the 2 inch (48mm) eyepiece filter.

 

Dale

[Dale Eason]

Dale,

You might just put a taper .5-.8° on the threaded surface and don't worry about a specific thread. Let it just bite into the aluminum.

Thank you I will try.   I recently tried PLA thinking it would print a smoother thread.   It did but the SCAD generated STL file still did not accept the filter.  

Edited by Dale Eason, 07 August 2021 - 11:34 AM.

[Dale Eason]

I got threads printed that work for a 2 inch eyepiece filter using openScad and the threading module. 

 

The SCAD thread parameters I found to work were metric_thread(48.8, 0.75 ,5, internal=true, taper=.1) to get me a 5mm thick threaded adapter.   I was surprised to have to use a diameter of 48.8 and not 48.   

 

printed on a Prusa mk3s+.  using .2 mm layer height.

[LarsMalmgren]

Dale,

 

Was this an inside thread ?

Because then you have added tolerance for the plastic to shrink when it cools after extrusion.

 

I still haven't gotten to the point where i can print fine threads reliable but it can be done with a well calibrated printer with a 0.4 mm nozzle.

But you have to tune in the right amount of tolerance.

And that is different for each type of filament and even for different colors of same brand filament.

 

I use Fusion360 and it's build-in thread tool is super easy to use but only comes with the tolerances that is used in the metal industry.

Worth zero on a 3D printer. So you have to either make your own thread definitions (xml file in some 'secret' Fusion360 folder)

or design the threads by hand in your sketch.

Last option is more work but also more flexible.

 

I've made an adapter to mount a 2" mounted filter (48x0.75 mm) to the front of a lens (think is was 58x1 mm).

Also made some M42 (42x1 mm) to T2 (42x0.75 mm) adapters.

 

But all this was trial'n'error with many prototypes in the bin.

[bmcclana]

I got threads printed that work for a 2 inch eyepiece filter using openScad and the threading module. 

 

The SCAD thread parameters I found to work were metric_thread(48.8, 0.75 ,5, internal=true, taper=.1) to get me a 5mm thick threaded adapter.   I was surprised to have to use a diameter of 48.8 and not 48.   

 

printed on a Prusa mk3s+.  using .2 mm layer height.

I have gotten threads to work using a nominally dimensioned model and adjusting the slicing parameters.

 

I use Cura and I set the slicing to be exclusive.  This puts all the plastic inside the model.  The default puts the plastic at the median or something like that such that some of the plastic is outside the boundary of the model.  This leads to undersized holes and oversized rods, particularly when there is an angled wall such as a thread.

 

I would presume there is a similar setting in other slicers.

[Dale Eason]

Dale,

 

Was this an inside thread ?

Because then you have added tolerance for the plastic to shrink when it cools after extrusion.

 

I still haven't gotten to the point where i can print fine threads reliable but it can be done with a well calibrated printer with a 0.4 mm nozzle.

But you have to tune in the right amount of tolerance.

And that is different for each type of filament and even for different colors of same brand filament.

 

I use Fusion360 and it's build-in thread tool is super easy to use but only comes with the tolerances that is used in the metal industry.

Worth zero on a 3D printer. So you have to either make your own thread definitions (xml file in some 'secret' Fusion360 folder)

or design the threads by hand in your sketch.

Last option is more work but also more flexible.

 

I've made an adapter to mount a 2" mounted filter (48x0.75 mm) to the front of a lens (think is was 58x1 mm).

Also made some M42 (42x1 mm) to T2 (42x0.75 mm) adapters.

 

But all this was trial'n'error with many prototypes in the bin.

Yes internal threads.  Yes many prototypes in the bin but success at last.  Thanks all for the tips and the reason making the tolerance.  I should have thought of that.

[LarsMalmgren]

I have gotten threads to work using a nominally dimensioned model and adjusting the slicing parameters.

 

I use Cura and I set the slicing to be exclusive.  This puts all the plastic inside the model.  The default puts the plastic at the median or something like that such that some of the plastic is outside the boundary of the model.  This leads to undersized holes and oversized rods, particularly when there is an angled wall such as a thread.

 

I would presume there is a similar setting in other slicers.

Interesting!

I have to look into this.  Where in Cura is this exclusive setting ?

[bmcclana]

Interesting!
I have to look into this. Where in Cura is this exclusive setting ?

It’s down at the bottom of the settings list… it may be in the experimental section.

[Arjan]

I was surprised to have to use a diameter of 48.8 and not 48.

I guess circles are often approximated with a set of lines along the way from cad tool, and slicer and depending on printer capability. In Slic3r there is a parameter that can compensate for this, forgot which one though...