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Show us your Asi2600/Qhy268c images

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#51 JerseyBoy

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Posted 04 July 2020 - 01:57 PM

Comparing two versions of M27.  

 

Version 1: Using the L-eNhance duo band filter (the green/red look) 

 

Version 2: Using the L-eNhance filter but extracted the red channel and used it as the luminance which is mostly Ha.  Stretched the RGB channels and then recombined with the luminance channel.  This giving the blue/red version.

 

I prefer version 1, as to me the second one looks a bit washed out in comparison (looking at them side by side).


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#52 LPA

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Posted 12 July 2020 - 09:42 AM

My ASI2600 arrived last week and I finally had a chance to try it out the last two nights from my home under the Dallas light dome. The sky is so bright here that I can't see all of the main Sagittarius stars with no chance of seeing any clusters or nebulae. To deal with this, I imaged M8 with a Chroma LPR filter the first night and an H-alpha filter the second. Unfortunately in my eagerness to image, I neglected to match the camera rotation the second night with my images from the first night so I can't do an NBRGB combination without having to crop too much. Hopefully I'll be able to image from a dark sky site soon.

Scope: AT130EDT + Riccardi 0.75x FF/FR

Mount: iOptron CEM60

 

Previously I used an ASI071 with this scope. The ASI2600 definitely is an improvement to the ASI071 with regards to cooling. Unless the humidity is relatively low, I cannot bring the ASI071 below 4C without frost forming, but no such issue with the ASI2600. These images were taken at 0C.

 

First image: 16x300sec, gain 100, uncropped and down-sized to 1200x802.

 

M8_ABE_HTcsmall.jpg

 

Second image: 10x600sec, gain 100. I extracted the red channel from each sub and integrated them, then down-sized for CN.

 

M8_Ha0_HTcsmall.jpg

 

Noise from this relatively low number of subs was easily dealt with. Obviously the ASI2600 has very good sensitivity at H-alpha wavelengths so doing NBRGB combinations should be straightforward once I make sure the camera orientation matches :-)

 

Larry


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#53 LPA

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Posted 13 July 2020 - 09:13 AM

Last night I reshot the LPR subs (15x300sec) to match the position angle of the Ha image and then did an NBRGBCombination. Here is the result, downsized for CN:

 

M8_NBRGB_ABEcsmall.jpg

 

Given that I only could see about 2 of the stars in Sagittarius last night visually from my backyard, I'm happy with how this turned out. No problem cooling the ASI2600 to 0c even though the ambient temperature was in the upper 80s when I started imaging.

 

Larry


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#54 nyda83

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 03:02 PM

I also have shoot the m8 but with the c8hd here it's the result of only 26 minutes just before the clouds start to cover everything...
get.jpg?insecure

Edited by nyda83, 24 July 2020 - 03:03 PM.

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#55 R Botero

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Posted 25 July 2020 - 04:20 AM

Another image taken with the tandem setup and the ASI2600 producing the colour frames:

 

9 panel mosaic of Veil Nebula complex taken over two months. No astronomical darkness but also no crashes and only frames dumped are thanks to Mr Musk’s Starlink. And managed to sleep and take some holiday away from the observatory also! wink.gif

 

https://astrob.in/7w1p07/K/

 

I image from the outskirts of London so bear with me on image quality but light pollution is my only limiting factor now. Not the hardware or software. See link for for full 11K x 11K resolution image if your bandwidth allows! tongue2.gif

 

Roberto

 

DBjzkvo3-It__1824x0_sLFV8Ukv.jpg


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#56 sn2006gy

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 08:50 AM

I have a new FF/FR coming in today so this one is cropped more than I wished and still has some curvature after doing some correction. The color/detail/fidelity is awesome though!

 

get.jpg?insecure

 

ASI2600MC 88 240 second subs Triad Quad Ultra Filter.


Edited by sn2006gy, 04 August 2020 - 08:50 AM.

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#57 RichieS

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 06:45 AM

Taken with an Epsilon 130 and an Stc Duo narrowband filter.
get.jpg?insecure
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#58 R Botero

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 01:07 PM

Another one with the tandem setup controlled with Voyager Array:  LDN1251.

 

With luminance data here:  get.jpg?insecure

 

And OSC data only - although a bit cropped because I was aligning my scopes - below.

 

This camera is extremely sensitive and works very well despite the light pollution of London.

 

Roberto

 

tpPFXDIop7A1_1824x0_9piiPLrU.jpg


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#59 calypsob

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 05:21 PM

Another one with the tandem setup controlled with Voyager Array:  LDN1251.

 

With luminance data here:  get.jpg?insecure

 

And OSC data only - although a bit cropped because I was aligning my scopes - below.

 

This camera is extremely sensitive and works very well despite the light pollution of London.

 

Roberto

 

tpPFXDIop7A1_1824x0_9piiPLrU.jpg

Man you shot this in the suburbs? What do you think your sqm is there? 


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#60 R Botero

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Posted 08 August 2020 - 01:46 AM

Man you shot this in the suburbs? What do you think your sqm is there? 

Hi Wes

 

Thanks. I’m south east of London but still within its metropolitan area. I am lucky to have a small wood/forest north of my house - about a mile north - which helps reduce the glow somehow. But my garden extends north not south.

I don’t have a proper sky brightness measurement tool but my iPhone app reported 18 on the night I started taking the above. The best reading I’ve had is 19.5 on a moonless night in the early hours. 

 

Roberto


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#61 calypsob

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Posted 08 August 2020 - 01:50 AM

Hi Wes

 

Thanks. I’m south east of London but still within its metropolitan area. I am lucky to have a small wood/forest north of my house - about a mile north - which helps reduce the glow somehow. But my garden extends north not south.

I don’t have a proper sky brightness measurement tool but my iPhone app reported 18 on the night I started taking the above. The best reading I’ve had is 19.5 on a moonless night in the early hours. 

 

Roberto

Well that is pretty impressive I must say. Keep it up!


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#62 RichieS

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Posted 13 August 2020 - 02:25 PM

Coathanger with 85% moon.

3 hrs in 180 second subs gain 0.

get.jpg?insecure
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#63 calypsob

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Posted 13 August 2020 - 02:48 PM

Im going to make a dark library tonight.

With the 2600 is everyone using Darks Flats and Bias

Or dark flats instead of bias?

#64 Xentex

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Posted 13 August 2020 - 11:00 PM

I'm using flat darks instead of bias because I read Christopher Foster's pixinsight workflow and what he wrote made sense to me.

 

Deep inside I feel compelled to try it both ways to see if I can detect a difference.  I expected that I'd do that after I got an image or two where I was frustrated by noise, but honestly the 2600 noise is so low compared to the DSLR's I'm used to that I feel like I could skip the darks and flats too and still have far cleaner images than I'm used to.


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#65 SXBB

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Posted 13 August 2020 - 11:14 PM

I think it might be ok to use Bias instead of Flat Darks with these cameras. I believe the complete lack of amp glow means that you can scale your darks too!


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#66 calypsob

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Posted 13 August 2020 - 11:28 PM

I'm using flat darks instead of bias because I read Christopher Foster's pixinsight workflow and what he wrote made sense to me.

 

Deep inside I feel compelled to try it both ways to see if I can detect a difference.  I expected that I'd do that after I got an image or two where I was frustrated by noise, but honestly the 2600 noise is so low compared to the DSLR's I'm used to that I feel like I could skip the darks and flats too and still have far cleaner images than I'm used to.

Hmm, got a link to his workflow? 



#67 calypsob

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Posted 13 August 2020 - 11:28 PM

I think it might be ok to use Bias instead of Flat Darks with these cameras. I believe the complete lack of amp glow means that you can scale your darks too!

Yea there is alot of room to be creative here. I have never scaled darks before but may give it a test. 



#68 R Botero

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Posted 14 August 2020 - 02:45 AM

No dark flats for me and no scaling of darks either. I only do 300s or 150s exposures anyway and this is from suburban London. My flats - using a panel - are 3s long so the bias are sufficient to calibrate them. I let WBPP do all the work in PxI. See Adam Block’s tutorials for WBPP and OSC cameras, they are free on YouTube. 

Roberto


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#69 calypsob

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Posted 14 August 2020 - 08:54 AM

No dark flats for me and no scaling of darks either. I only do 300s or 150s exposures anyway and this is from suburban London. My flats - using a panel - are 3s long so the bias are sufficient to calibrate them. I let WBPP do all the work in PxI. See Adam Block’s tutorials for WBPP and OSC cameras, they are free on YouTube.
Roberto


Cool, imo a bias library is easier to manage and creating a huge bias integration is easy
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#70 Freakshow

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Posted 15 August 2020 - 12:08 PM

Comparing two versions of M27.  

 

Version 1: (the green/red look) 

 

Version 2:  the blue/red version.

I think you did a wonderful job with these images, so please do not take my questions as a criticism,  I merely want to learn.

 

The stars in the center are perfect white dots.  In the corners, the colors shift from blue toward the center and red towards the corners.  What is the cause of this aberration and how is it corrected?  

 

Second, how do you feel the resolution and color fidelity of this camera compare to a mono 4/3 like the ASI1600?  If they are close enough that there is no discernible difference, then the workflow simplicity, time savings, weight savings would be tremendous.   A $2000 ASI2600 is roughly $500 cheaper than an ASI1600 + filters + wheel.



#71 RobertM

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Posted 15 August 2020 - 12:56 PM

Sh2-101 aka the Tulip with 47 x 600s with L-Extreme and ASI2600 from Bortle 6/7 London UK.  Calibrated with matching darks, bias and sky flats.

 

https://flic.kr/p/2jsk9EW

 

Imaging scope was a SW Esprit 150 with Dedicated FF on 10u GM2000, all captured dithered and unguided with Voyager automation.  I processed this as a RGB image as the OIII was so weak.

 

Robert


Edited by RobertM, 15 August 2020 - 12:59 PM.

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#72 RazvanUnderStars

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Posted 15 August 2020 - 08:24 PM

See https://www.cloudyni...7#entry10227237

 

Hmm, got a link to his workflow? 



#73 Xentex

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Posted 15 August 2020 - 08:38 PM

Hmm, got a link to his workflow? 

Here's the link to the workflow book I mentioned above.  There's a lot of good info in the thread as a whole, but the post I'm linking to is the one with a download link to the book.


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#74 Umasscrew39

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Posted 15 August 2020 - 09:22 PM

I think you did a wonderful job with these images, so please do not take my questions as a criticism,  I merely want to learn.

 

The stars in the center are perfect white dots.  In the corners, the colors shift from blue toward the center and red towards the corners.  What is the cause of this aberration and how is it corrected?  

 

Second, how do you feel the resolution and color fidelity of this camera compare to a mono 4/3 like the ASI1600?  If they are close enough that there is no discernible difference, then the workflow simplicity, time savings, weight savings would be tremendous.   A $2000 ASI2600 is roughly $500 cheaper than an ASI1600 + filters + wheel.

I am not offended at all.  That is a very good question and good catch and also how we all learn.  Unfortunately, it is a well-know effect of the Celestron 0.7x focal reducer which has been well documented on CN and other astronomy forums.  So, it has nothing to do with the camera and is next to impossible to process out other than crop the image until they are removed.  That is also why many users of the Celestron SCTs avoid the reducer and use either a hyperstar (which I did for many years) or image with no reducer.  

 

The 2600 is a fantastic OSC camera producing very low noise, no amp glow, and excellent color and resolution.  I have owned several color cameras and it is hard to beat.  I also now use the 533 which is essentially the baby brother of the 2600.  I also own the mono 1600 and primarily use it for narrowband imaging and not RGB images.  If you are comparing the color produced by the 1600 MM with LRGB filters to the OSC 2600, the 1600 almost always produces better color images and I believe most experts will tell you that as well. Arguments rage back and forth as to what approach to take based on costs, time involved, etc., but in my opinion, the gap between the newer OSC cameras like the 2600 and a mono camera like the 1600 with color filters is closing.  Again, many would scream that is nonsense.  I am very content with the newer OSC cameras and the mono cameras only for narrowband palette images.  Based on cost, the 2600 plus a OSC narrowband filter like the L-enhance is all you need for great images of emission nebulae and no filter (or perhaps a light pollution filter) for galaxies.  The cost goes up with the mono camera as you need a complete filter set and a filter wheel or a cheaper filter drawer.  Workflow and time involved is slightly more with the mono approach as you need flats for each filter, etc but this can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be.  There is a learning curve you have to go through and remember there are other variables like your sky conditions.  

 

My final suggestion is, if you have not already done so, is to go on sites like here and Astrobin and see images taken with the 1600 and 2600 (or 533) before you decide.  Both are great cameras so in the end, you win.  It is a matter of personal preference as to what route you prefer to take.  There is no wrong choice.  

 

I hope this helps a little in making your decision.       


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#75 Freakshow

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Posted 16 August 2020 - 12:02 AM

I had a hunch it was the reducer since the C11 edge is such a fine scope.  I have an Ultima C11.  I heard great things about the Starizona LF 0.7 reducer.  I hope to try it out soon.  https://starizona.co...-coma-corrector

 

How close is the gap in resolution in your opinion?  Pixel size is nearly identical.   Even with the bayer matrix the OSC cannot be 4x as soft right?  The pictures from the IMX455 mono are indeed impressive.  I love hunting for the tiny 6 pixels galaxies on Astrobin--and the doubles, triples, and quad systems--everywhere!   A IMX571C mono would dominate the market I think, but in the meantime I will probably follow your example and get both. 

 

  Lastly, couldn't you use the Region of Interest function to turn your 2600 into a 533?  I considered the 533, but to me, it makes more sense to get the APS-C and ROI or crop.

 

Thank you for the reply.


Edited by Freakshow, 16 August 2020 - 12:07 AM.



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