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Battery acid damage - Celestron computerized ALT-AZ mount - Salvagable?

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#1 awong101

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 05:05 PM

Pulling my old Celestron 130SLT out of storage and I discovered that my mount is dead. I pulled the battery compartment to find those old batteries have leaked and there are crystalized deposits on the metal contacts.

 

Has anyone tried to salvage those Celestron motorized ALT-AZ mounts? It won't be my main mount because I want to transition over to more photography versus just viewing. But if I can replace it, why not?

 

Thank you!



#2 barbarosa

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 05:20 PM

If the damage is too the battery holders why not try using the mount with an external 12VDC source? It takes the same 2.1mm x 5.5mm, center positive plug as the other Celestron mounts.

 

If that works, then clean out the corroded areas with a baking soda paste, rise/wipe clean, It is better to use an external source, power adapter, car battery or Li ion battery pack.


Edited by barbarosa, 01 August 2020 - 05:21 PM.

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#3 CharlesC

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 05:48 PM

No one ever uses those battery compartments anyway.  AA batteries run down very quickly causing bad tracking.   Everyone uses the external 12V connector to power that mount with a AC adapter or an external 12V battery.


Edited by CharlesC, 01 August 2020 - 05:49 PM.


#4 awong101

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 05:52 PM

No one ever uses those battery compartments anyway.  AA batteries run down very quickly causing bad tracking.   Everyone uses the external 12V connector to power that mount with a AC adapter or an external 12V battery.

 

If the damage is too the battery holders why not try using the mount with an external 12VDC source? It takes the same 2.1mm x 5.5mm, center positive plug as the other Celestron mounts.

 

If that works, then clean out the corroded areas with a baking soda paste, rise/wipe clean, It is better to use an external source, power adapter, car battery or Li ion battery pack.

 

I forgot to mention. The mount/telescope was purchased used and I don't have the DC power source frown.gif

 

I also bought the system for $100 years ago. So, if I can't salvage the mount, I'll pair it with another mount for viewing purposes only.


Edited by awong101, 01 August 2020 - 05:57 PM.


#5 Bean614

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 06:00 PM

I forgot to mention. The mount/telescope was purchased used and I don't have the DC power source frown.gif

 

I also bought the system for $100 years ago. So, if I can't salvage the mount, I'll pair it with another mount for viewing purposes only.

Of course you don't!   You have to BUY one!

I recommend the TalentCell 8300, or 11,000.  The 8300 is only around $50, rechargeable,  and gets 7 or 8 hours on my old SLT mounts. Amazon is your friend here.


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#6 awong101

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 06:11 PM

Of course you don't!   You have to BUY one!

I recommend the TalentCell 8300, or 11,000.  The 8300 is only around $50, rechargeable,  and gets 7 or 8 hours on my old SLT mounts. Amazon is your friend here.

I would have thought Celestron shipped the mount with DC power...

 

Thanks, I'll think about it. Considering I bought the whole thing for $100...



#7 Bean614

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 06:19 PM

I would have thought Celestron shipped the mount with DC power...

 

Thanks, I'll think about it. Considering I bought the whole thing for $100...

Some mounts from Celestron,  Meade,  Orion, etc., ship with a DC Adapter,  which plugs into an AC outlet, and then converts that to 12V DC where the wire plugs into the mount. Rather inconvenient.   Get the TalentCell, as it has uses far beyond just Astronomy. You're Welcome.


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#8 CharlesC

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 06:32 PM

I forgot to mention. The mount/telescope was purchased used and I don't have the DC power source frown.gif

 

I also bought the system for $100 years ago. So, if I can't salvage the mount, I'll pair it with another mount for viewing purposes only.

You can get a small 12V lithium battery from Amazon for $25 here.  Most folks use these.  Lasts all night.

https://www.amazon.c...N/ref=emc_b_5_t

 

If you have an old external harddrive, they usually have 12Vdc adapter with 2.1mm connector that would work too.


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#9 Mitchell M.

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 06:34 PM

If you're able to completely remove the battery holder from the mount, it is very possible to salvage the holder. If not, still can salvage the holders, it'll be difficult, just gotta be careful.

To clear/clean battery corrosion, alkaline in this case, first brush loose the 'crystals' with an old toothbrush and then use white vinegar to dissolve the corrosion from the terminals using the old toothbrush. Rinse with water. Repeat as often to get it to where you're happy with the results.

Alkaline batteries -- use acid (vinegar) to dissolve.

Lead Acid batteries -- use base (baking soda) to dissolve.


Edited by Mitchell M., 01 August 2020 - 06:37 PM.


#10 awong101

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 07:35 PM

Some mounts from Celestron,  Meade,  Orion, etc., ship with a DC Adapter,  which plugs into an AC outlet, and then converts that to 12V DC where the wire plugs into the mount. Rather inconvenient.   Get the TalentCell, as it has uses far beyond just Astronomy. You're Welcome.

 

You can get a small 12V lithium battery from Amazon for $25 here.  Most folks use these.  Lasts all night.

https://www.amazon.c...N/ref=emc_b_5_t

 

If you have an old external harddrive, they usually have 12Vdc adapter with 2.1mm connector that would work too.

Thanks, I just need know what wire to use that plugs into the mount. Because I have a bunch of these rechargable batteries at home.

 

Appreciate it guys!



#11 awong101

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 07:36 PM

If you're able to completely remove the battery holder from the mount, it is very possible to salvage the holder. If not, still can salvage the holders, it'll be difficult, just gotta be careful.

To clear/clean battery corrosion, alkaline in this case, first brush loose the 'crystals' with an old toothbrush and then use white vinegar to dissolve the corrosion from the terminals using the old toothbrush. Rinse with water. Repeat as often to get it to where you're happy with the results.

Alkaline batteries -- use acid (vinegar) to dissolve.

Lead Acid batteries -- use base (baking soda) to dissolve.

I think going with a portable rechargable batteries would be an easier fix. I just need to know what wire goes into the mount. Thanks!



#12 Bean614

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 07:51 PM

The wire you need to connect to the Nexstar mount will be included with the 8300 or 11000 batteries. 



#13 mclewis1

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Posted Yesterday, 10:31 AM

Charles touched on it ... you need a 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC connector wired center positive for the scope side connection. How the other end connects to your batteries will depend on the particular battery product but most will have the automotive cigarette lighter style socket. 

 

There are also 2.5mm x 5.5mm connectors that look exactly like the 2.1mm versions and fit into the socket on the scope but they will often introduce intermittent power connections.

 

The most important thing to verify though is that everything is wired tip positive (which is the way 99% of the commercial products are wired).

 

If you successfully clean up the battery compartment (it should clean up without actual damage) you can add alkaline AA batteries and use them as a backup to the external power connection. With the internal batteries any intermittent power connection won't cause the mount to reset (and force you to go through another initial alignment). The problem with soley relying on the internal batteries is that they get drained very very quickly and with low voltage the mount starts to act very strange. Just don't forget and leave these batteries in the scope for long periods.

 

So basically your choices come down to 3 general types. A small 12v Lithium power pack with a built in cable (with that 2.1mm connector), or a jump start style lead acid 12v battery (heavier and larger than the Lithiums) plus an external DC power cable (2.1mm x 5.5mm on one end , cigarette lighter style on the other), or if you have a 110v outlet and extension cord handy an inexpensive AC to 12v 2-3 amp (and more amperage is fine too) regulated power supply (also with a built in 2.1mm connector).


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#14 awong101

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Posted Today, 01:59 AM

Charles touched on it ... you need a 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC connector wired center positive for the scope side connection. How the other end connects to your batteries will depend on the particular battery product but most will have the automotive cigarette lighter style socket. 

 

There are also 2.5mm x 5.5mm connectors that look exactly like the 2.1mm versions and fit into the socket on the scope but they will often introduce intermittent power connections.

 

The most important thing to verify though is that everything is wired tip positive (which is the way 99% of the commercial products are wired).

 

If you successfully clean up the battery compartment (it should clean up without actual damage) you can add alkaline AA batteries and use them as a backup to the external power connection. With the internal batteries any intermittent power connection won't cause the mount to reset (and force you to go through another initial alignment). The problem with soley relying on the internal batteries is that they get drained very very quickly and with low voltage the mount starts to act very strange. Just don't forget and leave these batteries in the scope for long periods.

 

So basically your choices come down to 3 general types. A small 12v Lithium power pack with a built in cable (with that 2.1mm connector), or a jump start style lead acid 12v battery (heavier and larger than the Lithiums) plus an external DC power cable (2.1mm x 5.5mm on one end , cigarette lighter style on the other), or if you have a 110v outlet and extension cord handy an inexpensive AC to 12v 2-3 amp (and more amperage is fine too) regulated power supply (also with a built in 2.1mm connector).

 

Thank you, I think it's more worthwhile to forgo the battery compartment altogether. There are some acid crystalline deposits around the metals but it is far from gross. (It was a slow leak, not a catastrophic failure). Especially if the portable rechargable lithium looks to be a far easier and reliable solution. I have enough spare battery packs at home, let me go find those 2.1mm x 5.5mm wires and see if the mount will even fire up.

 

Haha I just discovered a new problem with the mount. One of the leg has a failure and can only extend out to its "second step".

 

Well, I guess this is what I get for buying the 130SLT for $100.




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