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Can you help out a beginner?

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#26 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 12:11 PM

Oh, going crazy is half the fun!

Tell that to my wife! The wife of the husband who has interest in home theaters, astronomy, guitars and cars lol.



#27 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 11:14 PM

Thanks for all your help everyone! I did a lot of reading and couldn’t find any negative remarks about the Meade so I went their 82 degree 14MM 5000 and decided to save the $30 against the ES. I’m sure there are better eyepieces but the majority I found outside of those 2 were much more expensive. I also decided to pick up a Televue 2X Barlow so I will have 20, 14, 10, 7 and 5 for the time being. I’m eyeing one of the 24mm ES for the future and eventually replacing the 10 with a higher quality 9 so I’ll have 24, 14, 9, 7 and 4.5 and I think at that point I’ll be pretty set.
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#28 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 11:25 PM

I lied, I didn’t look hard enough i guess. Field curvature? I don’t know. Well, I guess all I can do is see how i feel about it.

#29 clearwaterdave

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 04:05 AM

Hello.,You culd save a little and just get a gso barlow.,the TV is probably twice the price and not much different.,

  The highest power you can use is most dependant on the sky conditions.,You can have a 20" scope and 200x may be your max if the seeing is unstable.,Dark skies are great.,but if the seeing is poor you can't push the power.

  For dso I usually am under 100x with my scope's.,at my location.,The moon and planets and globs can be observed at higher powers but.,only if the seeing is steady.,Otherwise it's like looking down a blacktop road on a hot day.,You will probably notice this effect on the moon first.,or if the stars seem to be twinkling alot.,that's a bad sign.,lol.,Good luck.,



#30 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 07:57 AM

Hello.,You culd save a little and just get a gso barlow.,the TV is probably twice the price and not much different.,

  The highest power you can use is most dependant on the sky conditions.,You can have a 20" scope and 200x may be your max if the seeing is unstable.,Dark skies are great.,but if the seeing is poor you can't push the power.

  For dso I usually am under 100x with my scope's.,at my location.,The moon and planets and globs can be observed at higher powers but.,only if the seeing is steady.,Otherwise it's like looking down a blacktop road on a hot day.,You will probably notice this effect on the moon first.,or if the stars seem to be twinkling alot.,that's a bad sign.,lol.,Good luck.,

Thanks, I did not see that Barlow, the other one recommended here was sold out at astronomics. The next best recommended I could find was the TV, that’s a significant difference in price though, $70. Yikes. Thanks, yeah I’ve been doing some reading about sky conditions. I’ve been using an app and the internet to look at conditions; transparency, seeing etc. It’s been mostly crap for 2 weeks now, raining and cloudy almost every single stupid day. I’ve really only had the chance to look at some of the planets which has been cool. The days that have been “good”  are always in the middle of the week from 12-6am which uh I have a job so that isn’t going to happen lol. Weekends have been awful so the times I can stay up late, it hasn’t been worth it. 


Edited by Newtoastronomy85, 06 August 2020 - 08:02 AM.


#31 csrlice12

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 10:02 AM

Well, to be truthful, this is Colorado and the seeing is normally average or worse.  Between the mountains and the jet stream "good" seeing is fairly rare, "excellent" seeing is a time to celebrate.  However, Colorado's transparency is to die for...nebulas and faint fuzzies are the show objects here.  In my 10" dob, a 5mm eyepiece (240X) is the max for planets before the view goes South and on any given night, it might be a 7mm max.  Check out M8 at about 50X....WoW.

 

July and August are Monsoon season on the Front Range.


Edited by csrlice12, 06 August 2020 - 10:08 AM.


#32 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 02:37 PM

Well, to be truthful, this is Colorado and the seeing is normally average or worse.  Between the mountains and the jet stream "good" seeing is fairly rare, "excellent" seeing is a time to celebrate.  However, Colorado's transparency is to die for...nebulas and faint fuzzies are the show objects here.  In my 10" dob, a 5mm eyepiece (240X) is the max for planets before the view goes South and on any given night, it might be a 7mm max.  Check out M8 at about 50X....WoW.

 

July and August are Monsoon season on the Front Range.

That’s disappointing and not surprising haha. Another reason Colorado just sucks anymore! I will try and find that! I have an app but it doesn’t seem very accurate. Actually what does everyone else use? A map? App? Computer software? I’d like to be a be able to find more stuff. 



#33 csrlice12

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 03:07 PM

I look outside after sunset....actually, channel 4 and Fox both have fairly accurate forcasts...Accuweather or Weather channel use the coin flip method.



#34 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 03:14 PM

I look outside after sunset....actually, channel 4 and Fox both have fairly accurate forcasts...Accuweather or Weather channel use the coin flip method.

Good to know! I should have broken that paragraph up, the 2nd part was what do people use for finding stars and galaxies etc? I use an app but it seems quite off.



#35 Starman1

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 03:16 PM

That’s disappointing and not surprising haha. Another reason Colorado just sucks anymore! I will try and find that! I have an app but it doesn’t seem very accurate. Actually what does everyone else use? A map? App? Computer software? I’d like to be a be able to find more stuff. 

Try:

Clear Outside

Meteo Blue 

Clear Sky Charts

Windy.com (my personal favorite)


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#36 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 05:12 PM

Ill check those out, thanks! 



#37 MarioG

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 03:08 AM

Hi everyone! It's my first post here, as well smile.gif I've bought SW 10", as well smile.gif Flex-tube version, F/4.7, 254/1200mm.

 

I'd like to start this hobby with a set of good eyepieces... I've no experience yet, just completing the equipment at the beginning. 

 

I'd ask you in this thread, as it seems to be very close to my question, is there any sense to buy 10mm Pentax XW (120x, exit pupil 2,12) if I already have:
Morpheus 12,5mm, 76 deg, 96x, exit pupil 2,66
Morpheus 6,5mm, 76 deg, 184x, exit pupil 1,38
ES 24mm, 68 deg, 50x, exit pupil 5,10 (ordered)
?

 

Isn't it too small difference in relation to Morpheus 12,5mm (120x vs 96x)?

 

It would be mix of focal lenghts mentioned by Starman1 smile.gif I was thinking about the Morpheus 9mm (133x, exit pupil 1,91) but I'd like to try Pentax XW series smile.gif (although Morpheus seems to be really good...)

 

As I understand there will be only magnification difference because FoV are similar (0.57 Morhpeus vs. 0.58 Pentax)

 

OR maybe 24mm, 12,5mm and 6,5mm it's enough for the begining and I shouldn't buy more EPs for a while... (?)

 

I've asked local astro group on Facebook is there anybody with good EPs like Delos, Pentax, ES, Morpheus etc. but nobody answer. So I've bought EPs mentioned above smile.gif Maybe Delos 14mm would be better for my scope and my eyes (instead of 12,5mm Morpheus) but it's another question, maybe not for now. So far so good.


Edited by MarioG, 07 August 2020 - 07:58 AM.


#38 Voyager 3

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 08:09 AM

I feel that both 10XW and 9 Morpheus will do it for you . Both have nearly same exit pupil . And now I will let you make the decision . Many tell that 9 Morpheus is the best of the line . Have you read the review of the Morpheus eyepieces by Bill Pauloni? It's a great review . He compares the Morpheus line Vs the Pentax line in that review . Read that and decide yourself . And if you really want to try the XWs why not try the 5XW 😀. But it may not be used often depending on your location.

#39 Starman1

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 11:16 AM

Hi everyone! It's my first post here, as well smile.gif I've bought SW 10", as well smile.gif Flex-tube version, F/4.7, 254/1200mm.

 

I'd like to start this hobby with a set of good eyepieces... I've no experience yet, just completing the equipment at the beginning. 

 

I'd ask you in this thread, as it seems to be very close to my question, is there any sense to buy 10mm Pentax XW (120x, exit pupil 2,12) if I already have:
Morpheus 12,5mm, 76 deg, 96x, exit pupil 2,66
Morpheus 6,5mm, 76 deg, 184x, exit pupil 1,38
ES 24mm, 68 deg, 50x, exit pupil 5,10 (ordered)
?

 

Isn't it too small difference in relation to Morpheus 12,5mm (120x vs 96x)?

 

It would be mix of focal lenghts mentioned by Starman1 smile.gif I was thinking about the Morpheus 9mm (133x, exit pupil 1,91) but I'd like to try Pentax XW series smile.gif (although Morpheus seems to be really good...)

 

As I understand there will be only magnification difference because FoV are similar (0.57 Morhpeus vs. 0.58 Pentax)

 

OR maybe 24mm, 12,5mm and 6,5mm it's enough for the begining and I shouldn't buy more EPs for a while... (?)

 

I've asked local astro group on Facebook is there anybody with good EPs like Delos, Pentax, ES, Morpheus etc. but nobody answer. So I've bought EPs mentioned above smile.gif Maybe Delos 14mm would be better for my scope and my eyes (instead of 12,5mm Morpheus) but it's another question, maybe not for now. So far so good.

It makes good mathematical sense to have each higher magnification be 1.414x the next lower magnification.

In practice, people like 1.3-1.5x the next lower magnification.

You can calculate that by taking the focal length of the low power eyepiece and dividing it by the same number (1.3-1.5).

The only problem with that is with high powers, where it puts too large a jump in between each magnification.

That's why I typically advocate for even steps of magnification, because it means the % difference reduces as the magnification goes up.

But, at a minimum, even with the very smallest scope, you don't want magnifications closer together than 30x.

And with a 10" scope, not any closer together than about 50x.

That should give you a way to figure out what your jumps should be between focal lengths.


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#40 SeattleScott

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 12:38 PM

9mm is definitely a better fit.

#41 areyoukiddingme

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 01:09 PM

While 9 will work, it's a bit close to 12.5 in the 1200mm focal length scope for my taste (37x).

 

Another solution would be to get a 5mm XW for 240x which would be a nice planetary magnification, and a good step from the 6.5 at 185x.



#42 jwpkrfan

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 07:20 PM

 

I already have a laser collimator and actually adjusted the mirrors the other day so they were aligned, fairly easy and intuitive process. I do appreciate you bringing this up though!

How did you perform your collimation with your laser? Depending on how you did this you may have miscollimated your scope. I'm new myself but my first laser was out of collimation itself and I could never get it to stay collimated. One thing I learned in collimation tools is you get what you pay for.

 

Lots of discussion about this in the reflector forum. If you post some image though a collimation cap I'm sure someone will give you some feedback.



#43 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 07:40 PM

How did you perform your collimation with your laser? Depending on how you did this you may have miscollimated your scope. I'm new myself but my first laser was out of collimation itself and I could never get it to stay collimated. One thing I learned in collimation tools is you get what you pay for.

 

Lots of discussion about this in the reflector forum. If you post some image though a collimation cap I'm sure someone will give you some feedback.

I adjusted the secondary to match the primary and then adjusted the primary to match the center point on the collimation tool. I don’t have a collimation cap though so I don’t know how I would do that, well without buying one haha. I don’t have any issues with out of focus anything or stars looking weird. 



#44 jwpkrfan

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 09:25 PM

Put your laser in the focuser and lock it like you would with an eyepiece and take note of the laser spot on the primary mirror. Rotate the laser 90 degrees an repeat. Does the laser spot move? Hopefully not. Repeat this process until you get back to the starting position. If the laser traces a circular path the laser beam is not collimated. You should also check that your laser does not move if you rack the focuser up and down.

I had trouble with all these issues. I ended up getting a much better laser and I just ordered a new focuser.

However, if your defocused star tests are symmetrical at high power you are probably good.
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#45 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 10:07 PM

Put your laser in the focuser and lock it like you would with an eyepiece and take note of the laser spot on the primary mirror. Rotate the laser 90 degrees an repeat. Does the laser spot move? Hopefully not. Repeat this process until you get back to the starting position. If the laser traces a circular path the laser beam is not collimated. You should also check that your laser does not move if you rack the focuser up and down.

I had trouble with all these issues. I ended up getting a much better laser and I just ordered a new focuser.

However, if your defocused star tests are symmetrical at high power you are probably good.

Thanks for the heads up!! I checked everything and the laser stays in the same spot so that’s good. 



#46 jwpkrfan

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 11:29 PM

In that case leave it alone. The collimation rabbit hole gets pretty deep. Read up on it before doing anything. My collimation help page went 5 pages on this forum only to find out I have a defective focuser.

#47 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 08 August 2020 - 12:03 AM

In that case leave it alone. The collimation rabbit hole gets pretty deep. Read up on it before doing anything. My collimation help page went 5 pages on this forum only to find out I have a defective focuser.

Oh I already collimated it last week lol. I watched a bunch of videos before I did it and it was slightly off so it got adjusted. 



#48 MarioG

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Posted 09 August 2020 - 02:23 AM

It makes good mathematical sense to have each higher magnification be 1.414x the next lower magnification.

In practice, people like 1.3-1.5x the next lower magnification.

You can calculate that by taking the focal length of the low power eyepiece and dividing it by the same number (1.3-1.5).

The only problem with that is with high powers, where it puts too large a jump in between each magnification.

That's why I typically advocate for even steps of magnification, because it means the % difference reduces as the magnification goes up.

But, at a minimum, even with the very smallest scope, you don't want magnifications closer together than 30x.

And with a 10" scope, not any closer together than about 50x.

That should give you a way to figure out what your jumps should be between focal lengths.

Thanks a lot! This is information I was looking for.

 

(...) if you really want to try the XWs why not try the 5XW . 

It is an option :D It should be more comfortable than ES 4.7mm 82 deg.

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Thanks to everyone!



#49 Newtoastronomy85

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 07:37 PM

Dang. I know there’s some serious skepticism towards some of the Meade stuff. I didn’t expect this thing to weigh a solid pound or so, crazy. 



#50 Starman1

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 07:51 PM

Dang. I know there’s some serious skepticism towards some of the Meade stuff. I didn’t expect this thing to weigh a solid pound or so, crazy. 

What thing?




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