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Help with Jupiter processing - Using phone camera and manual telescope

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#1 Manchego

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Posted 09 August 2020 - 10:25 PM

Hello guys

 

Thanks to the Corona pandemy, I moved to the country side and I de-dusted my grandpa´s manual skywatcher 1000/200.

 

A couple of months later I started to do "astropotography"

 

I would like to get advice in the process I have followed to photograph and process Jupiter. It would be great to here if we my current setup would be possible to process a better picture (i.e. if my processing work flow is missing something)

 

First of all my tools are:

- skywatcher 1000/2000 EQ5 (no automation of any kind)

- 6mm Celestron Omni Ocular

- Xiaomi Mi 9 phone

- Phone to ocular adapter (which works great btw and it was only 15€ tongue2.gif)

 

Light conditions are really good in these unpopulated area of Spain: La Mancha (where Don Quijote fought the Giants disguissed as wind mills)

 

Procedure of filming a video:

Well... my telescope does not have a motor, so everything is done manual. I dont own any dedicated camera so I use my smartphone one.

 

I use a cheap adapter to align phone camera lense and telescope ocular.

 

I do a polar alignment so I only need to rotate around the RA axis

 

Then the fun starts. As my phone stock camera (i have tried also other apps) is not able to record Jupiter without overexposing, I switch to pro camera mode witch allows me to reduce ISO till the point I start to see smth similar to what I see when looking myself at the ocular. But as I want to record a video, the only way I found to do this, is to use the built-in screen recorder. So yeah, pretty much I adjust ISO till I can see in my phone screen Jupiter details, I do also a 2x digital zoom, and start recording the camera.

 

During 20mins I record jupiter by moving manually the RA as soon as Jupiter starts to get out of scope. So i let to cross from side to side of the screen, and when starts to dissapear I readjust RA to have it in view again, and so on laugh.gif. A bit painful to be honest to do all of this manually. At the end I get a ~2000 frames video

 

3NrgJZc.gif

 

 

Processing:

 

Before feeding it to PIPP I crop the video to remove the buttons of the camera laugh.gif

 

DsVxvKl.gif

 

 

Finally, I can move ahead and do the PIPP, Autostacker & RegStax thing:

 

- on PIPP i select to get 1200 best frames and I output the avi file

5S9dl9c.gif

 

 

- on AutoStack I do this:

 

Z7trgq9.jpg

 

and I get this picture for 5%

 

eg3GqpZ.png

 

 

Then on RegStaX I play a bit with wavelengths but I am very noob with this. This are the final images:

 

xZw0jUZ.jpg

N14Tvp3.jpg

GAdZHI7.jpg

 

 

 

I am aware that manual control and phone camera is not the best combination for astrophotography. But I am sure that with my current equipment I should be able to get more detail in the final pictures. I would like to hear advises and suggestions.

 

Thanks

 

 


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#2 Tapio

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Posted 09 August 2020 - 10:48 PM

That is not bad at all.

Two things come to mind.

1. If you are using all the frames of 20 minutes of video then you are seeing blurring effect because of Jupiter rotation.

Use about 3 minutes of video max.

2. Use less aggressive wavelets in Registax.

There are good tutorials on this found on the internet.


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#3 doolsduck

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Posted 09 August 2020 - 10:50 PM

Hi there.  Given the limitations of phone and mount you are dealing with they aren't too bad.   I don't know anything about that phone so can't comment on that side, but if you can borrow a friend's iPhone and use nightcap app on it that would be a good comparison.  There is probably goingto be some down sampling to the screen meaning the resolution of the video is probably lower than you might get with an equivalent phone that can record 1080p or better still 4k vid.

Some general comments: 

stack video frames with an elapsed time of no more than 2-3 minutes on Jupiter. 20 minutes is too long and the features you can see will be smeared in the final image because Jupiter rotates so fast (10 hr day).  

 

I have trouble with field curvature in the eyepiece when doing what you are doing and letting the planet drift across the field like that.  The distortion of the planet means that you get terrible final image.  Check that the planet shape remains constant across the field and not say elliptical>circular>elliptical and you're probably OK.   AS3! settings look OK, you probably need only half of the AP that you set and choose them manually around features you can make out.

 

good luck


Edited by doolsduck, 09 August 2020 - 10:52 PM.

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#4 WarmWeatherGuy

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 01:24 AM

Try stacking with larger align points so you end up closer to 10 to 20 align points instead of 50.


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#5 Manchego

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 07:56 AM

Thanks a lot guys :) really good advices. I will try with shorter time spans

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