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Vintage Telescope Finds

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#726 Bomber Bob

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 10:17 AM

ADM sells a couple of Vixen clamp bases that'll fit the Mizar EQs -- small round to longer rectangular.  Got the latter on my Mizar SP:

 

2 Mizar EQ Mounts - Complete S03 (SP).jpg


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#727 erin

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 10:22 AM

Nice! Would that be a stable enough connection to hold a Meade ACF? It is one of the lighter weight OTA’s, not the heavy Lx200. 



#728 Bomber Bob

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 10:44 AM

It carries my 12# 5" F5 Triplet RFT...


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#729 erin

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 11:19 AM

Good to know! It seems worth a shot then.



#730 jkmccarthy

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 11:33 AM

Thanks Walter! Very nice! What did you use for a new saddle? I was wondering if I could convert it to accept the vixen dovetail to use more scopes on it.

I used one of the round vixen saddles. I had to elongate one of the holes for it to fit but it works well.

Thanks for the tip!

ADM sells a couple of Vixen clamp bases that'll fit the Mizar EQs -- small round to longer rectangular.  Got the latter on my Mizar SP:

 

attachicon.gif2 Mizar EQ Mounts - Complete S03 (SP).jpg

Erin --   You might also want to take a look at the Stellarvue Losmandy and Vixen "dovetail combination shoe" (part # TDLV) https://www.stellarv...and-vixen-size/

 

Even if the ability to accommodate dovetail bars of either width isn't something you need at the moment, a nice feature of this saddle is that the counterbored mounting holes (for 1/4-inch or M6 bolts) for attaching it to your mount are slotted, so the saddle will fit regardless of the exact spacing between the bolt holes on the mount. ...

 

TDLV_-revised-_1-2018-1__09363.154845619

 

I also discovered that instead of using the counterbored top side of the saddle for the head of a 1/4-inch bolt or socket head cap screw, it's possible instead to place a square 1/4-inch nut in the slot --- into which the nut fits nicely such that it slides along the slot, but won't rotate --- if instead of tapped holes on the mount side there are clearance holes (and therefore one needs to engage threads on the saddle side of the connection).   Here's what that looks like on the top of my old school GEM with 40mm spacing between the mount's 1/4-inch clearance holes (note that here I'm using the blue knobs off a Farpoint saddle, not the black knobs that were supplied with the Stellarvue saddle ... too many other black knobs on the mount already : - ) ....

 

gallery_363526_16876_112282.jpg

 

Hope this helps,

 

       -- Jim

 

 

EDIT:   Taking my square-nut idea step further, it occurs to me just now that an alternate approach (if one has clearance holes on the mount side and access to them from underneath) would be to use square-headed 1/4-20 machine bolts (e.g., like a pair of these having the appropriate length:  https://www.amazon.c...=price-asc-rank ) in the counterbore slots of the Stellarvue saddle, long enough to stick out the underside of the holes on the mount side for washers and nuts on that side instead.   This would get around the constraint that the bolts engaging the nuts in my photo above must not poke out far enough to interfere with the Vixen dovetail once it is installed (fortunately I found stock bolts of the proper length, and didn't need to get out the hacksaw to ensure they wouldn't contact the dovetail) ... but if the head of the bolts are in the counterbored slots, then the bolts' length is no longer critical ... except for the risk of them scratching the back of your hand if your mount has any control knobs in the vicinity of where excessively long square-headed bolts would stick out below the nuts you use ....


Edited by jkmccarthy, 27 May 2021 - 01:13 PM.

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#731 brian dewelles

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 01:28 PM

So i got this 8 inch f/7 OTA about  2 months ago. It was basically a throw in with some other equipment the guy was selling so i could not resist. it was in pieces but all there. The mirror coatings were almost non existent so i sent to spectrum coatings (my fourth mirror there) and got it on tuesday. Looks great, but when i installed cell (edmund i think) yesterday it was for a tube 3/4 inch smaller so i had to use nuts and washers as spacers to take up the difference. Lucky for me it worked and i got to test last night. Excellent star images and even got a nice peek at m13 before moon came up over the trees. 8 inch f/7 newtonian equals a lot of fun in my world.

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#732 DAVIDG

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 02:06 PM

 A former coworker of mine emailed me that he had a lens that he bought years ago and wasn't going to build a telescope out of it , so he was  wondered if I wanted it. From his description I thought it might be one that Jaegers sold or maybe Edmund so I was very surprised to find an old  wooden box and when I opened  it an antique 5" f/15 lens in a brass cell. I could easily see that the spacer were paper and most likely stamps. I couldn't  see any writing on the edge of the glass so I'm not sure who the maker might be. From the look of the cell it could be either a  Clark or Brashear. 

   I was even more surprised when I tested  it using Double Pass Autocollimation in my basement shop. It is EXCELLENT !!!!  So now I have another project to it get mounted up so I can use it. This weekends job is to remove the glass from the cell and clean the glass. 

   The wooden storage box came with the top split and the upper part of the latch had pull free from the wood.  I repaired those problems so the lens is safely being stored in the box until it can again be out under the stars..

                       - Dave 

antique lens.jpg

 

antqiue lens dpac.jpg


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#733 bob midiri

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 02:17 PM

 A former coworker of mine emailed me that he had a lens that he bought years ago and wasn't going to build a telescope out of it , so he was  wondered if I wanted it. From his description I thought it might be one that Jaegers sold or maybe Edmund so I was very surprised to find an old  wooden box and when I opened  it an antique 5" f/15 lens in a brass cell. I could easily see that the spacer were paper and most likely stamps. I couldn't  see any writing on the edge of the glass so I'm not sure who the maker might be. From the look of the cell it could be either a  Clark or Brashear. 

   I was even more surprised when I tested  it using Double Pass Autocollimation in my basement shop. It is EXCELLENT !!!!  So now I have another project to it get mounted up so I can use it. This weekends job is to remove the glass from the cell and clean the glass. 

   The wooden storage box came with the top split and the upper part of the latch had pull free from the wood.  I repaired those problems so the lens is safely being stored in the box until it can again be out under the stars..

                       - Dave 

attachicon.gifantique lens.jpg

 

attachicon.gifantqiue lens dpac.jpg

Bet ya Bart from Antique Telescope Society would know exactly which one it is!! Great find Dave, looks like an excellent lens


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#734 SteveGR

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 03:24 PM

 A former coworker of mine emailed me that he had a lens that he bought years ago and wasn't going to build a telescope out of it , so he was  wondered if I wanted it. From his description I thought it might be one that Jaegers sold or maybe Edmund so I was very surprised to find an old  wooden box and when I opened  it an antique 5" f/15 lens in a brass cell. I could easily see that the spacer were paper and most likely stamps. I couldn't  see any writing on the edge of the glass so I'm not sure who the maker might be. From the look of the cell it could be either a  Clark or Brashear. 

   I was even more surprised when I tested  it using Double Pass Autocollimation in my basement shop. It is EXCELLENT !!!!  So now I have another project to it get mounted up so I can use it. This weekends job is to remove the glass from the cell and clean the glass. 

   The wooden storage box came with the top split and the upper part of the latch had pull free from the wood.  I repaired those problems so the lens is safely being stored in the box until it can again be out under the stars..

                       - Dave 

attachicon.gifantique lens.jpg

 

attachicon.gifantqiue lens dpac.jpg

It makes you wonder, just how long was it in the box, and if it is that good, why was it in a box in the first place?
 



#735 Matty S

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 04:42 PM

1988 TAK FC-100 on the Tall Pedestal Meade StarFinder:

 

attachicon.gifTak FC-100 Delivery T31 - 2nd Setup (Meade SF RS).jpg

TOYS


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#736 Bomber Bob

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 04:50 PM

It makes you wonder, just how long was it in the box, and if it is that good, why was it in a box in the first place?
 

It wasn't uncommon to remove the inner lens cell to protect the lens -- especially at observatories back then.


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#737 Matty S

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 04:52 PM

It appears UPS arrived on the sly while I was up in Maine for 20 hours lumping another 12 tons over 400 miles...yay.gif  the Zenmarket imps are wily little buggers...

Details to come.

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#738 semlin

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 06:39 PM

 A former coworker of mine emailed me that he had a lens that he bought years ago and wasn't going to build a telescope out of it , so he was  wondered if I wanted it. From his description I thought it might be one that Jaegers sold or maybe Edmund so I was very surprised to find an old  wooden box and when I opened  it an antique 5" f/15 lens in a brass cell. I could easily see that the spacer were paper and most likely stamps. I couldn't  see any writing on the edge of the glass so I'm not sure who the maker might be. From the look of the cell it could be either a  Clark or Brashear. 

   I was even more surprised when I tested  it using Double Pass Autocollimation in my basement shop. It is EXCELLENT !!!!  So now I have another project to it get mounted up so I can use it. This weekends job is to remove the glass from the cell and clean the glass. 

   The wooden storage box came with the top split and the upper part of the latch had pull free from the wood.  I repaired those problems so the lens is safely being stored in the box until it can again be out under the stars..

                       - Dave 

attachicon.gifantique lens.jpg

 

attachicon.gifantqiue lens dpac.jpg

very cool find.

 

the box interests me.  is it home made?  it looks to be made of fir or a similar softwood.



#739 norvegicus

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 07:13 PM

looks like oak to me



#740 Matty S

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 07:41 PM

Ok, initial checkup and setup.

This is a nice little scope, worthy of BB's "Sub-60mm Classics"

Eikow 50/610 model St-500 (1977) if I researched right. The year Star Wars was released!  Excellent memories...

Needs a good scrub-up, some paint repair on the OTA and the dewshield has a good dent and pitting in a small region.

Optics and coatings look nice. Just the OTA, finder and tripod.

Was gonna try some stuff from the J60 to give it a try but turn-around time for work and mosquitos chased me back inside.

A good "dueling" scope with someone's recent Focal 20-20-51 acquisition... Jedi.gif

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#741 Terra Nova

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 07:47 PM

Another nice find Matty! You’re keeping it interesting around here. waytogo.gif


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#742 DAVIDG

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 09:19 PM

very cool find.

 

the box interests me.  is it home made?  it looks to be made of fir or a similar softwood.

 It's oak and has dovetail joints.

 

               - Dave 


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#743 erin

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Posted 27 May 2021 - 10:36 PM

Erin --   You might also want to take a look at the Stellarvue Losmandy and Vixen "dovetail combination shoe" (part # TDLV) https://www.stellarv...and-vixen-size/

 

Even if the ability to accommodate dovetail bars of either width isn't something you need at the moment, a nice feature of this saddle is that the counterbored mounting holes (for 1/4-inch or M6 bolts) for attaching it to your mount are slotted, so the saddle will fit regardless of the exact spacing between the bolt holes on the mount. ...

 

TDLV_-revised-_1-2018-1__09363.154845619

 

I also discovered that instead of using the counterbored top side of the saddle for the head of a 1/4-inch bolt or socket head cap screw, it's possible instead to place a square 1/4-inch nut in the slot --- into which the nut fits nicely such that it slides along the slot, but won't rotate --- if instead of tapped holes on the mount side there are clearance holes (and therefore one needs to engage threads on the saddle side of the connection).   Here's what that looks like on the top of my old school GEM with 40mm spacing between the mount's 1/4-inch clearance holes (note that here I'm using the blue knobs off a Farpoint saddle, not the black knobs that were supplied with the Stellarvue saddle ... too many other black knobs on the mount already : - ) ....

 

gallery_363526_16876_112282.jpg

 

Hope this helps,

 

       -- Jim

 

 

EDIT:   Taking my square-nut idea step further, it occurs to me just now that an alternate approach (if one has clearance holes on the mount side and access to them from underneath) would be to use square-headed 1/4-20 machine bolts (e.g., like a pair of these having the appropriate length:  https://www.amazon.c...=price-asc-rank ) in the counterbore slots of the Stellarvue saddle, long enough to stick out the underside of the holes on the mount side for washers and nuts on that side instead.   This would get around the constraint that the bolts engaging the nuts in my photo above must not poke out far enough to interfere with the Vixen dovetail once it is installed (fortunately I found stock bolts of the proper length, and didn't need to get out the hacksaw to ensure they wouldn't contact the dovetail) ... but if the head of the bolts are in the counterbored slots, then the bolts' length is no longer critical ... except for the risk of them scratching the back of your hand if your mount has any control knobs in the vicinity of where excessively long square-headed bolts would stick out below the nuts you use ....

Wow! Thanks so much for taking the time, Jim. This is excellent info! I’m not in a rush, so I’ll take the time to check this out. Thanks again!



#744 Bomber Bob

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Posted 28 May 2021 - 05:43 AM

BIF, Terra adapted an OPT single clamp Vixen base to a 1960s Edmund Small EQ:

 

ATM 5 RFT S31 (Edmund Filo Tripod).jpg

 

(It also has that "fail safe" thumbscrew - a good thing with a hefty OTA!)


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#745 jim kuhns

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Posted 28 May 2021 - 08:45 AM

So i got this 8 inch f/7 OTA about  2 months ago. It was basically a throw in with some other equipment the guy was selling so i could not resist. it was in pieces but all there. The mirror coatings were almost non existent so i sent to spectrum coatings (my fourth mirror there) and got it on tuesday. Looks great, but when i installed cell (edmund i think) yesterday it was for a tube 3/4 inch smaller so i had to use nuts and washers as spacers to take up the difference. Lucky for me it worked and i got to test last night. Excellent star images and even got a nice peek at m13 before moon came up over the trees. 8 inch f/7 newtonian equals a lot of fun in my world.

Brian. See you own a wonderful Byers mount. I am sure the mount can handle the 8".

I always admired anything made by Mr. Byers. waytogo.gif


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#746 RichA

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Posted 28 May 2021 - 02:16 PM

1988 TAK FC-100 on the Tall Pedestal Meade StarFinder:

 

attachicon.gifTak FC-100 Delivery T31 - 2nd Setup (Meade SF RS).jpg

How stable are those old Meade piers?  I owned one of the MTS mounts (fork-German  hybrid really) and I put a smaller refractor in it.  While I like the way it worked, it wasn't as steady as a tripod.


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#747 Bomber Bob

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Posted 28 May 2021 - 04:16 PM

How stable are those old Meade piers?  I owned one of the MTS mounts (fork-German  hybrid really) and I put a smaller refractor in it.  While I like the way it worked, it wasn't as steady as a tripod.

It takes some reinforcing to keep the pier from acting like a tuning fork.  I experimented 1st with that tall 3" thin Sears 6336 pedestal -- cut 1" thick foam disks that fit tightly inside, spaced about 8" to 10" apart, and packed fiberfill (like quilt batting) between these disks.  Compressed the material until it tried to push the disks out!  Since both Meade piers are 4" wide, I stacked the 1" styrofoam disks, and made the gaps shorter.  All 3 now have a "clunk" sound when thumped, rather than a "ping" or ringing, and damping time is near 0.  The only improvement that I'd like for both Meades are longer cast feet -- preferably Cast Iron vs aluminum...

 

When I used either the LONG Edmund 4" F15 or Long & Heavy APM 152ED, and I wanted to observe at high power, or make hi-res planetary images, I'd lay 20# sand bags over the feet for added stability.

 

I tried a set of the Celestron anti-vibration pads, but with the Meades, it was better to have the feet resting on the concrete -- especially our pool deck, which is about twice as thick as our patio.

 

BIF:  IIRC, a couple of Classic Scope Nutz have filled these short pedestals with sand...  that would be too heavy for Ole BB -- especially the 5 ft tall version!!  My all-foam solution adds very little weight.


Edited by Bomber Bob, 28 May 2021 - 04:21 PM.

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#748 RichA

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Posted 30 May 2021 - 06:56 AM

It takes some reinforcing to keep the pier from acting like a tuning fork.  I experimented 1st with that tall 3" thin Sears 6336 pedestal -- cut 1" thick foam disks that fit tightly inside, spaced about 8" to 10" apart, and packed fiberfill (like quilt batting) between these disks.  Compressed the material until it tried to push the disks out!  Since both Meade piers are 4" wide, I stacked the 1" styrofoam disks, and made the gaps shorter.  All 3 now have a "clunk" sound when thumped, rather than a "ping" or ringing, and damping time is near 0.  The only improvement that I'd like for both Meades are longer cast feet -- preferably Cast Iron vs aluminum...

 

When I used either the LONG Edmund 4" F15 or Long & Heavy APM 152ED, and I wanted to observe at high power, or make hi-res planetary images, I'd lay 20# sand bags over the feet for added stability.

 

I tried a set of the Celestron anti-vibration pads, but with the Meades, it was better to have the feet resting on the concrete -- especially our pool deck, which is about twice as thick as our patio.

 

BIF:  IIRC, a couple of Classic Scope Nutz have filled these short pedestals with sand...  that would be too heavy for Ole BB -- especially the 5 ft tall version!!  My all-foam solution adds very little weight.

That's the downside of thin piers, why AP and the like use 6,7,8 inch wide piers.  That and "open triangles" which the Meade is whereas the AP piers for example close the triangles, increasing pier stiffness using guy rods.


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#749 Bomber Bob

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Posted 30 May 2021 - 08:23 AM

Pier or Tripod?  For me, it's all about the trade-offs.  Since most of my observing is at high-powers, I don't like vibrations.  Most nights, my tripods with metal spikes have faster damping than my pedestals -- when those spikes are pushed into turf.  On concrete, the pedestals are preferred.  I have more freedom of movement, and more comfortable zenith views, with the pedestals.  Lots of patios & porches in the backyard, too.  The 3 pedestals I use most often have accessory trays -- the way I swap out eyepieces, that's a must-have.  Now, all of my tripods have trays as well.



#750 Augustus

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Posted 31 May 2021 - 01:49 PM

Dynamax 8s - #3041 and #3110  - one of the last gray forked and first blue forked models. #3041 was picked up here off CN and was said to have "good optics", has some tube damage I need to repair, replaced the original finder with a Towa 50mm, drive is really loud. #3110 came with another scope I bought for free, focuser was completely ruined and secondary is chipped - Gil V was kind enough to send me replacement parts for both scopes. I have a Golden Pyramid for #3110 and a Meade tripod for #3041.

 

IMG_0599.JPEG


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