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Solar Scope for Full-frame Coverage

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#76 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 10:45 PM

T-Minus Ring Threads ON to the B1200-12mm Blocking Filter...

 

 

Note: No need to buy a nose piece for T-Minus Ring; B1200 'becomes' the nose piece

 

 

Note: The specific T-Minus Ring comes with 'two' rubber rings to help properly orient the camera as it threads on to the Blocking Filter

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Edited by mmalik, 20 September 2020 - 12:47 AM.


#77 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 10:50 PM

William Optics 210 (Red) plate...

 

 

Note: It was purchased from here...

 

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#78 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 10:55 PM

Installing 4' Dovetail Plate...

 

 

Note: Scope comes with the Black plate and two bolts (shown); use provided bolts ONLY!. Additional bolts (1/4 x 5/8) 'are' needed for the Red plate

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Edited by mmalik, 20 September 2020 - 12:34 AM.


#79 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 10:56 PM

210 Plate Installed...

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Edited by mmalik, 20 September 2020 - 12:34 AM.


#80 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 10:57 PM

Black and Red plate perspective...

 

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#81 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 11:01 PM

How Sony MILC attaches to B1200 Blocking Filter (Diagonal)...

 

 

Note: Sony a7III shown

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Edited by mmalik, 20 September 2020 - 08:57 AM.


#82 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 11:08 PM

The Works...

 

 

Note: SkyGuider Pro shown; scope balances fine as shown and 'is' within its weight capacity. Remove the objective plate from the scope before balancing since it (plate) is quite heavy. DO NOT add third weight since that will exceed mount's capacity!

 

 

Note: Color scheme in the end complements the whole setup and makes it a cohesive system (...pending testing)

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Edited by mmalik, 20 September 2020 - 08:06 AM.


#83 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 11:10 PM

The Objective...

 

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#84 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 11:17 PM

The Bolt...

 

 

Note: Focuser bolt comes 'separate' in the box (uninstalled); absolutely necessary to operate (lock) the focuser

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Edited by mmalik, 20 September 2020 - 08:07 AM.


#85 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 11:19 PM

Look inside the focuser...

 

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Edited by mmalik, 19 September 2020 - 11:22 PM.


#86 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 11:31 PM

All good but setup remains un-tested at the moment; will post results on the next opportunity. Part of the goal is to utilize a full-frame MILC to image Sun which doesn't seem to be the norm here in the forum and probably not generally as well. Regards


Edited by mmalik, 19 September 2020 - 11:37 PM.


#87 mmalik

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Posted 19 September 2020 - 11:57 PM

Moonlite focuser seems much beefier/heavier than Feather Touch; if weight is a consideration (...especially on a mount like SkyGuider Pro), go for Feather Touch instead which is also a factory configurable option. Also avoid automation to keep the payload low/balanced as needed. Regards

 

 

Note: Inset courtesy of Nick!

 

 

Note: 60mm shown in both configurations

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Edited by mmalik, 20 September 2020 - 08:09 AM.


#88 rigel123

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Posted 20 September 2020 - 06:19 AM

Looks interesting, scope is beautiful, looking forward to seeing how the setup works out for you.


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#89 chemman

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Posted 20 September 2020 - 11:32 AM

So I took a similar route to full frame imaging.  My endeavor like yours is and will be a work in progress.  As you can see the imaging is going to take some work.  

 

DbYfJI4.jpg

 

I decided to go with the Lunt LS100MT so I can pack one scope for solar and night time viewing.  I chose to go with the BF3400 filter which turns out to be the final bit on the double stack allowing me to attach a JMI electric focuser directly to the Feather Touch 2" draw tube.  I can put 1.25" lenses or a 6.3 MP SONY IMX178 on a T-mount on the back of the JMI.  I also have adapted a Sony bayonet to a threaded fitting to go in the JMI so I can attach my A7RIV or full spectrum A7R.  The IMX178 does a very good job but takes two shots that need to be stitched together on PS to get a full disk.  Here is a snapshot I did a day or so ago with the A7RIV, don't know how it will work out.  The above shot was a mistake but probably the technique will have potential.  It is a 12x pixel shifted 240 megapixel image using a Sony 2x G-Master teleconverter, 19,008 X 12,872 pixels, 24 bit, iso 360, 1/200s, directly out of the camera as a 2 gigabit RAW taken into PS and saved as a JPG with image compression of 5 for size restraints.  I use a small laptop with 32 gig ram and a .5Tb SSHD for remote capture or to rough focus any digital optics using the Feather Touch.  I then can go in to my desktop and focus, record and control the mount with WI-FI.  

 

3J0Xb8b.jpg

 

When I win the lottery I will add a DSMCII RED camera in 8K.  


Edited by chemman, 20 September 2020 - 11:43 AM.

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#90 mmalik

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Posted 22 September 2020 - 11:33 AM

Beautiful setup you have!

 

 

I have some questions regarding your pier since I've been thinking of some creative ideas myself. Your tree stump seems to be sitting on/anchored to the deck, is that correct? If yes, how are you securing it?

 

 

I have a need for a permanent pier in the backyard but not sure how to go about it. One option is to have a concrete one, one to use a metal pipe of sort going deep in the ground, third something like yours, a wood stump of sort but gong deep in the ground, and lastly (least favorite) using a tripod/legged pier that sits at the ground level. Last option is not ideal since that makes it a temp. solution. Anyway, your thoughts welcome on this matter since I am at a loss figuring it (pier) out. Regards

 

 

Note; My pier questions are regarding a Mach2/StarFire kind of setup; and not the one sown above.


Edited by mmalik, 22 September 2020 - 11:35 AM.


#91 chemman

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Posted 22 September 2020 - 05:36 PM



Beautiful setup you have!

 

 

I have some questions regarding your pier since I've been thinking of some creative ideas myself. Your tree stump seems to be sitting on/anchored to the deck, is that correct? If yes, how are you securing it?

 

 

I have a need for a permanent pier in the backyard but not sure how to go about it. One option is to have a concrete one, one to use a metal pipe of sort going deep in the ground, third something like yours, a wood stump of sort but gong deep in the ground, and lastly (least favorite) using a tripod/legged pier that sits at the ground level. Last option is not ideal since that makes it a temp. solution. Anyway, your thoughts welcome on this matter since I am at a loss figuring it (pier) out. Regards

 

 

Note; My pier questions are regarding a Mach2/StarFire kind of setup; and not the one sown above.

So I live in the Colorado high country and I figure much of my viewing is when it is very chilly, like below zero. The Pier is 6 or so feet out from the deck door and about 5 feet high to get over the roof.  It is15 feet above ground on the deck support post.  I first placed it, put the metal straps on it and leveled it. Used it for a couple weeks and was very happy with it.   I marked where it was mounted with a sharpie by an outline and removed half the strap screws leaving the straps in their original location.  Mixed up a 5 ounce dose of slow cure JB weld and gobbed it on the top of the deck support.  Built a moat around the perimeter marked by the sharpie using JB weld putty.  Put the tree stump back exactly where it was squishing everything everywhere, put the screws back in the straps and secured it down  with the lag screws through the 1/4" steel bars and angle iron.  It is extremely stable.  

 

ieKLVVo.jpg


Edited by chemman, 22 September 2020 - 10:04 PM.

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