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Orion ED80 question

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#1 gnowellsct

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Posted 13 September 2020 - 10:59 PM

What kind of load can you hang on the back of the Orion ED80 and have it work "as is"?

 

Nagler 31? Pan 41?  Binoviewer?  Daystar h-alpha rig?  Astrophotography?

 

I'm assuming that it works in two inch format.  Could you hang a Pan 41 in a Maxbright off it and have it all hold together and work?

 

I've never seen one of these scopes up close, just what I see on the net.

 

I'm assuming that, at some point, some people move to after market focusers or move on to other 80mm?

 

thank you,

Greg N



#2 kel123

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Posted 13 September 2020 - 11:07 PM

What kind of load can you hang on the back of the Orion ED80 and have it work "as is"?

Nagler 31? Pan 41? Binoviewer? Daystar h-alpha rig? Astrophotography?

I'm assuming that it works in two inch format. Could you hang a Pan 41 in a Maxbright off it and have it all hold together and work?

I've never seen one of these scopes up close, just what I see on the net.

I'm assuming that, at some point, some people move to after market focusers or move on to other 80mm?

thank you,
Greg N


I think it is the Orion version of the Skywatcher Evostar. I don't know if the parts are exactly the same but the focuser Skywatcher version is always found wanting. Most imagers opt for an aftermarket focuser.
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#3 wrnchhead

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Posted 13 September 2020 - 11:31 PM

I found it wanting with just my fairly light Canon DSLR on it. I may have had it out three times before sticking a Moonlite on it. I can't imagine a binoviewer, diagonal and EPs. Sliiiiiiiide it would. At least my copy. I did all the mods also. It's just awful. 


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#4 db2005

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Posted 13 September 2020 - 11:53 PM

My (now gone) Orion 80ED used a very different (single-speed) focuser than the SW 2-speed version, though still a Crayford-style. It was pretty strong and was considerably less prone to slippage than the SW version of the focuser on my ED100. I never tried with a very heavy load though.


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#5 Jon Isaacs

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 12:11 AM

It's a Crayford.  To get the best performance, it will require some effort.

 

One thing about these focusers, the drawtube flat is not flat, they are very slightly concave, the pinion only touches on two edge. From the very beginning, these focusers have been this way.  Carefully flattlening the drawtube flat with a stone makes a big difference.  

 

Jon


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#6 kel123

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 12:11 AM

My (now gone) Orion 80ED used a very different (single-speed) focuser than the SW 2-speed version, though still a Crayford-style. It was pretty strong and was considerably less prone to slippage than the SW version of the focuser on my ED100. I never tried with a very heavy load though.


Yeah I think I read it something before that the Orion version is single speed. Meaning that they are basically different focuser builds.
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#7 Jon Isaacs

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 01:57 AM

Yeah I think I read it something before that the Orion version is single speed. Meaning that they are basically different focuser builds.

 

I have owned both.  I have had both apart.  To my eye, they are actually the same basic focuser.  The two speed has a two speed and some other minor differences.  

 

Jon


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#8 REC

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 11:45 AM

I use an ankle weight that I wrap around the the tube to counter off a heavy weight like a camera or BV.


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#9 Echolight

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 12:50 PM

I've about decided to get one of these and use as is for a while as is, over the more expensive complete kit that comes with the Evostar.

 

Maybe add a 2-speed hybrid drive later on.

 

I was waiting for a sale on the Evostar 80 similar to how the Evostar 100 is often marked down around 20%. But it has never materialized. Although they were marked down around 8% recently.

 

The only other competitor that I've considered is the 2-speed rack and pinion and FPL-53 equipped Lunt LS80MT f/7 for $730 with case, rings, and sun-finder/handle. But I think the f7.5 has an advantage for my visual application.

 

As far as Orion vs Skywatcher, I figure it doesn't really need a finderscope. Although I could use the SW RACI on my C8, or swap onto the C6R in place of the straight through finder. And the 5mm eyepiece and 2 inch diagonal would be useful. The case would be insurance against damage during shipping. And of course add the price of rings and dovetail. And 2-speed vs single.


Edited by Echolight, 14 September 2020 - 12:54 PM.


#10 gnowellsct

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 02:49 PM

It's a Crayford.  To get the best performance, it will require some effort.

 

One thing about these focusers, the drawtube flat is not flat, they are very slightly concave, the pinion only touches on two edge. From the very beginning, these focusers have been this way.  Carefully flattlening the drawtube flat with a stone makes a big difference.  

 

Jon

I don't even know what that means much less how to do it.  Are you referring to a grind stone?  I'm sure I would grind right through the piece.  You have to have spent some time grinding on a grind stone before you successfully alter a telescope draw tube, I would guess.  --GN


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#11 gnowellsct

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 02:50 PM

I use an ankle weight that I wrap around the the tube to counter off a heavy weight like a camera or BV.

That might work to balance it in the mount but it does not appear to be a solution to the focuser issues raised by others here?  Greg N



#12 gnowellsct

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 07:44 PM

So once we've stuck a moonlite on, how does it perform optically?  Is it a fully capable little Ed doublet?  

 

Greg N



#13 MalVeauX

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 10:41 PM

Hi Greg,

 

I have an old ED80. Haven't bothered getting a better 80mm refractor because it takes a significant cost to do that and see a significant gain in overall image quality from many aspects. Works great with a Quark. Works great for anything that doesn't need monster aperture (planetary...). Visual and imaging. The stock focuser is ok. It can work for all of it. But a cheap after market focuser makes a big impact.

 

The stock 2" focuser is ok enough to use fairly heavy imaging trains. It's going to have some play in it. An inexpensive GSO focuser will change it significantly for the better. And a better focuser is even better of course, though expensive. The ED80 is a great piece of glass for its cost. The correction is fantastic at F7.5. A good focuser, even a cheap one, is a big upgrade for overall use.

 

Here's an ED80 with a simple GSO focuser slapped on it.

 

33392197220_98e5bc15a2_c.jpg

 

Check out the imaging train on that thing.

 

32486072372_aeeac8cc12_c.jpg

 

Handles a Quark just fine.

 

33622598472_e0b05cb840_c.jpg

 

Here it is with a 0.8x reducer and an APS-C camera:

 

33030734791_6f3873681f_c.jpg

 

Some images from this system (forgive the diffraction spikes, I added those in post):

 

33104332301_b5fc062350_c.jpg

 

32575276520_ce1d39ee01_c.jpg

 

47745545292_aea8486f95_c.jpg

 

And here's the ED80 with double stack SM60 etalons (60mm F10) on front and a binoviewer and some imaging done with it in this setup:

 

49953599283_689959d9ff_c.jpg

 

50180880782_64937321ea_c.jpg

 

Very best,


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#14 Ron359

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 10:57 PM

Hi Greg,

 

I have an old ED80. Haven't bothered getting a better 80mm refractor because it takes a significant cost to do that and see a significant gain in overall image quality from many aspects. Works great with a Quark. Works great for anything that doesn't need monster aperture (planetary...). Visual and imaging. The stock focuser is ok. It can work for all of it. But a cheap after market focuser makes a big impact.

 

The stock 2" focuser is ok enough to use fairly heavy imaging trains. It's going to have some play in it. An inexpensive GSO focuser will change it significantly for the better. And a better focuser is even better of course, though expensive. The ED80 is a great piece of glass for its cost. The correction is fantastic at F7.5. A good focuser, even a cheap one, is a big upgrade for overall use.

 

 

+1 on all that...   I put the Orion 2 speed on it and it was fine with the larger EOS D- DSLRs I shoot with.  I didn't have play in mine. The end of the focuser tube is threaded so you can screw the T-adapter on and that makes a great rigid connection.  The Orion or SW FR/FF also screws on the tube and camera which makes for a much faster scope with even flatter field.    


Edited by Ron359, 14 September 2020 - 10:59 PM.

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#15 RichA

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 12:56 AM

I think it is the Orion version of the Skywatcher Evostar. I don't know if the parts are exactly the same but the focuser Skywatcher version is always found wanting. Most imagers opt for an aftermarket focuser.

Except I think the Orion pre-dated the Evostar, at least as available in the U.S.


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#16 Ron359

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 09:44 AM

Except I think the Orion pre-dated the Evostar, at least as available in the U.S.

I think I bought mine in 05 or 06.  It was the first ED refractor at well under $1K and very good optics from China.  A 'decade' or so before SW was even a concept.  


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#17 vdog

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 09:48 AM

And here's the ED80 with double stack SM60 etalons (60mm F10) on front and a binoviewer and some imaging done with it in this setup:

If I may interject a question here, what kind of corrector are you using for the binoviewer? 

 

I just ordered one of these.  
 


Edited by vdog, 15 September 2020 - 09:48 AM.

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#18 gnowellsct

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 10:06 AM

Nice work Marty


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#19 Jon Isaacs

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 10:23 AM

I don't even know what that means much less how to do it.  Are you referring to a grind stone?  I'm sure I would grind right through the piece.  You have to have spent some time grinding on a grind stone before you successfully alter a telescope draw tube, I would guess.  --GN

 

I'm referring to "stoning" the flat by hand with a flat stone like you would use to sharpen a knife.

 

One cannot be a total klutz but it's pretty easy. It's a slow process and you just watch to see how you're progressing. The flat has a large radius of curvature so the stone only contacts the flat at the edges. As you stone away, you just keep the progress equal on both edges.

 

Jon


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#20 Jon Isaacs

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 10:33 AM

Nice work Marty

 

I second that. Well done and proof once again that the ED-80 is capable of some fine images.

 

As far as I know the Orion ED-80 was the original version of the Synta 80 mm F/7.5 FPL-53 doublet.  I believe they were introduced in 2003.

 

Jon


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#21 gnowellsct

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 10:37 AM

I second that. Well done and proof once again that the ED-80 is capable of some fine images.

 

As far as I know the Orion ED-80 was the original version of the Synta 80 mm F/7.5 FPL-53 doublet.  I believe they were introduced in 2003.

 

Jon

$450, throw in $150 for a GSO....or more to get more spiffy...not bad.  I must confess it is not the most attractive tube but it seems to deliver.  GN


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#22 Jon Isaacs

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 10:52 AM

$450, throw in $150 for a GSO....or more to get more spiffy...not bad.  I must confess it is not the most attractive tube but it seems to deliver.  GN

 

For visual, the stock focuser is fine.

 

I agree, the Orion ED-80 as well as the ED-100 in the gun metal gray are not attractive scopes. I had one way back when for maybe 6 months but stumbled on to a William Optics 80 mm Megrez ll FD on Craigslist for $425. It was a year or 2 old and never been used.  That is an attractive scope.

 

This is an Orion ED-100 my friend Tom repainted. It has an older William Optics 2 speed but he could have just painted stock focuser black.

 

Tom's ED 100 High Res CN.jpg
 
I much prefer the classic black and white to the gun metal gray. If you dont look too close, it could be mistaken for a TV-102.
 
I have think they'd have sold more scopes if they looked like Tom's.
 
Jon

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#23 zirkel 2

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 11:37 AM

I have think they'd have sold more scopes if they looked like Tom's.

 

 

Me too, white colour it's nice...


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#24 RichA

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 11:58 AM

$450, throw in $150 for a GSO....or more to get more spiffy...not bad.  I must confess it is not the most attractive tube but it seems to deliver.  GN

There are 2 inch diagonals on Ebay for $50 which are indistinguishable from the 2nd tier known 2" diagonals like GSO, William Optics, Scope Stuff.


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#25 gnowellsct

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 01:15 PM

I'm referring to "stoning" the flat by hand with a flat stone like you would use to sharpen a knife.

 

One cannot be a total klutz but it's pretty easy. It's a slow process and you just watch to see how you're progressing. The flat has a large radius of curvature so the stone only contacts the flat at the edges. As you stone away, you just keep the progress equal on both edges.

 

Jon

Yeah well OK.  I remember sanding my CG5 per "astronomyboy.com" instructions back in the day.  That was a lot of work for very marginal gains.  The truth is I would be better advised to try to fix some random things around the house rather than try to fix an out-of-true focuser.  GN


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