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OMG did I just botch my Mars data?

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#26 Kokatha man

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 06:22 PM

Abe - I just got up & saw your PM but will answer here: you have the gamma set to maximum, that is, "1" which will send the brightness through the roof!

 

Gamma should be set at "50" for all captures although you can increase it right up to "100" to assist by providing extra contrast to help you focus...you need to return it to "50" to capture & there is a setting in FC to automatically provide additional (ie, higher values) of gamma for focusing, which is only applied for pre-capture.

 

Earlier versions of FC had the control work in the opposite manner more like how gamma operated in a lot of post-processing softwares (100= full brightness, 1= lowest) but Torsten changed that a long time ago now.

 

That's your problem my friend! wink.gif


Edited by Kokatha man, 15 October 2020 - 06:23 PM.


#27 Kokatha man

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 06:27 PM

Upon checking your screenshot again I note that the gamma slider etc is greyed out - you will have to check one of your FC .txt files to see exactly what gamma level is being applied to your captures.


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#28 skycamper

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 06:46 PM

Upon checking your screenshot again I note that the gamma slider etc is greyed out - you will have to check one of your FC .txt files to see exactly what gamma level is being applied to your captures.

I just checked, gamma was set to 1 (off) in all imaging runs.  Rats again.  Looks like I found a way to repeat a similar problem I was having in SharpCap. What does Gamma do anyway???  Just helps with contrast for focusing?   

 

Its just as well, I forgot the uv/ir filter on this camera.   Will adjust both problems tonight and soldier on. 

 

Why choose a Gamma of 50 ?



#29 skycamper

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 06:53 PM

This was a typical settings I used. Any other problems??   Hope to get it corrected for tonight.

 

FireCapture v2.6  Settings
------------------------------------
Camera=ZWO ASI462MC
Filter=L
Profile=Mars
Diameter=22.23"
Magnitude=-2.60
CM=268.3°  (during mid of capture)
FocalLength=2550mm
Resolution=0.24"
Filename=Mars_001052.avi
Date=151020
Start=000822.838
Mid=001052.838
End=001322.839
Start(UT)=070822.838
Mid(UT)=071052.838
End(UT)=071322.839
Duration=300.001s
Date_format=ddMMyy
Time_format=HHmmss
LT=UT -8h
Frames captured=67087
File type=AVI
Extended AVI mode=true
Compressed AVI=false
Binning=no
ROI=304x300
ROI(Offset)=0x0
FPS (avg.)=223
Shutter=1.735ms
Gain=66 (11%)
USBTraffic=100 (off)
HighSpeed=off
WBlue=95 (off)
Brightness=29 (off)
FPS=100 (off)
AutoExposure=off
WRed=52 (off)
Gamma=1 (off)
SoftwareGain=10 (off)
AutoGain=off
AutoHisto=75 (off)
Histogramm(min)=2
Histogramm(max)=168
Histogramm=65%
Noise(avg.deviation)=n/a
Limit=300 Seconds
Sensor temperature=17.0°C



#30 Kokatha man

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 07:03 PM

...you want something to get your head around that might take a couple of hours or even more - look up gamma, unity & linearity & be prepared to swat it out..! :rofl: 

 

A quick look at your FC .txt (remembering to check that gamma box & set it at "50" first) tells me the "High Speed" option is off...you want that on because no matter what anyone may tell you to the contrary, 8 bit data is all you ever need for planetary imaging & you want to get the maximum - or at least much better - fps that what having HS off will deliver!

 

"Brightness" is usually 16 or below...you don't need "29" & make sure you centre your ROI...I don't know what scope you have but an "Exposure" of 1.735ms is probably too short/fast/low...although that was probably part of your attempts to rein in the bright onscreen appearance I suspect... ;)


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#31 skycamper

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 07:10 PM

...you want something to get your head around that might take a couple of hours or even more - look up gamma, unity & linearity & be prepared to swat it out..! rofl2.gif

 

A quick look at your FC .txt (remembering to check that gamma box & set it at "50" first) tells me the "High Speed" option is off...you want that on because no matter what anyone may tell you to the contrary, 8 bit data is all you ever need for planetary imaging & you want to get the maximum - or at least much better - fps that what having HS off will deliver!

 

"Brightness" is usually 16 or below...you don't need "29" & make sure you centre your ROI...I don't know what scope you have but an "Exposure" of 1.735ms is probably too short/fast/low...although that was probably part of your attempts to rein in the bright onscreen appearance I suspect... wink.gif

Ok Ok....turn High Speed on, lower brightness, and check box gamma set to 50 for capture.  Okay, when I set my ROI I have to first have it on maximum to get mars in the FOV and then proceed to lower the ROI and use my hand paddle to move mars to the new ROI until I get to 300x300 or smaller.  Am I doing this wrong? 


Edited by skycamper, 15 October 2020 - 07:11 PM.


#32 Kokatha man

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 07:13 PM

No - but when you choose the ROI you want (remembering that the height of any ROI will determine the maximum fps you can achieve with said) you finish by clicking on the little icon to the left on the control panel to centre the ROI.


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#33 skycamper

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 07:28 PM

No - but when you choose the ROI you want (remembering that the height of any ROI will determine the maximum fps you can achieve with said) you finish by clicking on the little icon to the left on the control panel to centre the ROI.

Ok I see the Center ROI icon.....afterward do I use auto align?    I dont have auto guiding set up yet.    

 

Where is High Speed button?  Im using the dummy camera for now.  There seems to be alot of options under "MORE"  do these affect capture?

 

Thank you!!!!


Edited by skycamper, 15 October 2020 - 07:47 PM.


#34 Kokatha man

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 08:38 PM

Last reply from me Abe - I don't live on CN..! :rofl:

 

There's a little cog you can see in your control panel with "More" underneath it. (just under "Gamma" in your earlier screenshot) Plug your camera into your laptop or whatever & make sure you have a clearish plastic cap on your camera's nosepiece.

 

You might have to drape a tissue over it also to reduce the light hitting the camera's sensor even further, but point it at a light source or daylight & you can operate the camera & FC just as if you are out there imaging & take "indoor" captures to familiarise yourself: experimenting like this is a good way to familiarise yourself with what you need to know/do before you get out in the night-time!

 

Click on that "More" tab to bring up further options...they all have some input - naturally. ;)

 

I guess I really should add a FC tute to my other ones on our website...but there are some good ones out there that you should look at!


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#35 skycamper

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Posted 15 October 2020 - 08:53 PM

Oh Boy! More than I deserve!  bow.gif   Hopefully have some good results tonight and thanks for getting me over the finish line! 


Edited by skycamper, 15 October 2020 - 08:54 PM.


#36 skycamper

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Posted 16 October 2020 - 02:00 AM

this is better i think!  The last one cruising in at 500 FPS!!  Might try the barlow to F20 but this camera might not like that.   Seeing is looking good according to astropheric app.

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  • Screenshot (47).png


#37 martinl

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Posted 16 October 2020 - 04:53 AM

Looking pretty good. Your gamma is high in the first screenshot, you should just leave it at 50 for capturing. I thought the gamma was not applied to the captured video if the checkbox was unchecked as in the screenshot you posted previously, but I might be wrong (it’s been cloudy for a month straight here...). 
 

Regarding FPS; note that you have max/actual numbers for this. Max means the maximum you could theoretically get at the shutter speed you’re using, eg at 2ms you can at most get 1s/2ms=500 FPS. Actual is what you are actually getting and is limited by the amount of data the camera needs to handle each frame. Reducing the ROI will increase the actual FPS closer to the max. 


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#38 skycamper

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Posted 16 October 2020 - 10:27 AM

Looking pretty good. Your gamma is high in the first screenshot, you should just leave it at 50 for capturing. I thought the gamma was not applied to the captured video if the checkbox was unchecked as in the screenshot you posted previously, but I might be wrong (it’s been cloudy for a month straight here...). 
 

Regarding FPS; note that you have max/actual numbers for this. Max means the maximum you could theoretically get at the shutter speed you’re using, eg at 2ms you can at most get 1s/2ms=500 FPS. Actual is what you are actually getting and is limited by the amount of data the camera needs to handle each frame. Reducing the ROI will increase the actual FPS closer to the max. 

Yes I did leave it at 50 for capture but for the screenshot I increased it for contrast to better see my focus.  I check the box and leave it at 50 now.   Kokatha Man taught me this lesson!!  I was able to use the barlow as well.  Hopefully got something good. Had trouble keeping the blue part of histogram above 50 even with the WBlue at 95. 



#39 skycamper

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Posted 20 October 2020 - 12:41 PM

I really appreciate all the time people spent pushing me along here. Thank you!

 

Well I'm finding that I'm not much better at planetary processing than deep sky.    Here is my go at it and I cant say I did this in a very scientific manner since I was just experimenting.  Can anyone with more experience have a go at this?    I chose the point at which mars was highest in the sky and I chose the sharpen checkbox to see the data a bit.   There are 4 photos here with different stacked percentages 58% 38% 20% and 10%.

 

I tried to stick with the recommendations on capture from the folks who helped me here like Kokatha Man and George who has been helping me off line.

 

C11HD with an ASI462MC  on RGGB, drizzle 1.5, shot at F10 with an astronomik uv/ir cut filter.  Gamma at 50 and gain around 90 to 100.     FPS I think around 400 and the length is 300 sec and about 140K frames!  

 

https://drive.google...lpu?usp=sharing

 

and here is a barlowed x2  F20 version:

https://drive.google...iew?usp=sharing

 

Since im motivated to see what's here, drop my a link to paypal and I'll make a donation to you!   Is that even allowed?  Lol   

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Edited by skycamper, 20 October 2020 - 01:27 PM.



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