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Paralelogram mount base az bearing

binoculars mount
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#1 roirodriguez

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Posted 21 October 2020 - 04:06 AM

Hi,

 

This is my first message at cloudynights, which i followed greedily over the last two months or so. So first of all hello everybody :-)

 

I bought a pair of Celestron 20x80 Skymaster (standard) recently, which i'm enjoying a lot (despite some quality problems, i feel they're good for the price). I took them out about 5-6 times right now, and i haven't owned any big binoculars before. One thing that's clear to me after these wonderful nights, is that i need to mount them on something solid.

 

So i'm planning building a paralelogram mount for them. I feel it pretty straightforward, but i can't figure out how to make an az axis bearing (for the base, not the binos side) strong enough and stoppable.

 

Any ideas here? Any close photo, link, sketch, description or so?

 

Thanks a lot.

Roi Rodriguez



#2 AstroPotamus

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Posted 21 October 2020 - 07:13 AM

I'm a fan of this approach:   The mount/tripod becomes the base and you can use a "cheap" video head to secure it all.  Lots of adjustment capabilities on a decent Bogen tripod with a decent video head and $100 is all it will take.



#3 Rich V.

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Posted 21 October 2020 - 01:50 PM

Many p-gram designs I've seen use a "sandwich" of slippery polymer like Teflon or polyethylene between two plates.  The original Unimount, Farpoint and Orion Monster use this design.  No lockdown is really needed as long as you can adjust tension preload by tightening the pressure to a level you like.

 

 

Rich


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#4 AstroPotamus

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Posted 21 October 2020 - 02:24 PM

I just realized that the link I posted didn't show up.  Sorry about that.  Not sure what happened.  Try this:

 

http://www.astro-tom...cular_mount.htm


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#5 SonnyE

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Posted 21 October 2020 - 02:46 PM

I took the Septuagenarian route. I kicked around making my own for a while.

But decided to just get a Monster Parallelogram in the end.

It was simpler. And I'm happy.

 

My 20X 80mm Spymaster's are another story.

But I went looking and found this excellent You Tube video by Stars and Guitars of Cloudy Nights fame.

https://youtu.be/2DQgMtCRmtE

 

So if you want to try your hand at making your Skymaster Binocular's work better.


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#6 roirodriguez

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Posted 21 October 2020 - 03:19 PM

I just realized that the link I posted didn't show up.  Sorry about that.  Not sure what happened.  Try this:

 

http://www.astro-tom...cular_mount.htm

Already seen that link, and i thought the base was fixed when i looked at it. I'll think about attaching to a tripod whose head is allowed to rotate as you suggest...Thanks!



#7 roirodriguez

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Posted 21 October 2020 - 03:41 PM

Many p-gram designs I've seen use a "sandwich" of slippery polymer like Teflon or polyethylene between two plates.  The original Unimount, Farpoint and Orion Monster use this design.  No lockdown is really needed as long as you can adjust tension preload by tightening the pressure to a level you like.

 

 

Rich

This one is the design i like the most at first, from the p-grams i've seen. After posting my question i've also found https://www.cloudyni...friction-plate/, which details a little bit the same way as you do. Your comment about tension adjustment and that link (hanger bolt and locknut) erased the remaining doubts i got with this design.

 

I think i'm going with this one, seems very doable. Thank you Rich.


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#8 roirodriguez

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Posted 21 October 2020 - 03:53 PM

I took the Septuagenarian route. I kicked around making my own for a while.

But decided to just get a Monster Parallelogram in the end.

It was simpler. And I'm happy.

 

My 20X 80mm Spymaster's are another story.

But I went looking and found this excellent You Tube video by Stars and Guitars of Cloudy Nights fame.

https://youtu.be/2DQgMtCRmtE

 

So if you want to try your hand at making your Skymaster Binocular's work better.

:-)  That was my first inclination too, but then i looked at those prices...

 

Skymasters: Yeah, mine arrived uncollimated too, so i've already followed that youtube video. Appart from this, the oculars are too loose... For the rest of it, as i said i'm happy enough.



#9 Peterson Engineering

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Posted 22 October 2020 - 07:55 AM

It's always a kick in the head to discover that a workable binocular mount frequently costs many times more then the price of the binocular.  And even then, simply mounting on a tripod inhibits viewing overhead where the stars happen to be located shocked.gif


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#10 AstroPotamus

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Posted 22 October 2020 - 08:14 AM

My $19.99 Slik tripod with quick release adapter from Goodwill does a great job with my 20x80 SkyMasters.  For "grab-n-go" or portability.  I'm mainly looking south, under 75 degrees dec.  If I have to look up, I push the nocs up and lean back in my gravity chair that I road picked on trash day (one of the locks wasn't working, which is easily fixed by jabbing it with a screwdriver until it submits).  I get that lots of people want to look straight up, but $500 for some sort of mount that does that seems disproportionate to me.

 

An old "Luxo" style lamp (also from Goodwill) served as my parallelogram mount on a Bogen 3126 for a long time, especially when combined with the aforementioned gravity chair.



#11 Rich V.

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Posted 22 October 2020 - 10:18 AM

It's always a kick in the head to discover that a workable binocular mount frequently costs many times more then the price of the binocular.  And even then, simply mounting on a tripod inhibits viewing overhead where the stars happen to be located shocked.gif

I'm sure that's why you devised your pipe mount which functions in similar fashion to a p-gram.  wink.gif   It is a less expensive and useful solution to the problem.

 

Clearly, straight-through binos are tough for astronomy without some workaround that allows a comfortable seated or reclined viewing position.  Some p-grams that sit in front of the viewer can even make that less than ideal.  P-grams or a pipe mount are a good solution but lack the light weight and portability aspect that tripod/heads provide.

 

Many of us have settled into having both tripod/head and arm-style mounts so we have a choice no matter the situation.

 

Rich


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#12 Jon Isaacs

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Posted 22 October 2020 - 10:32 AM

Many of us have settled into having both tripod/head and arm-style mounts so we have a choice no matter the situation.

 

 

That's me but in reality, l either hand hold my binos (up to 15x70s) or a just use refractor with a diagonal on a tripod.  It lacks the binocular vision but it makes up for it in other ways.  

 

Jon



#13 Jawaid I. Abbasi

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 05:01 PM

Binocular Mount.jpg

 

Look at the base. I ordered from Ebay two aluminum disk and installed at the base. Need more information, contact me.


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#14 spacenut59

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 02:08 PM

attachicon.gifBinocular Mount.jpg

 

Look at the base. I ordered from Ebay two aluminum disk and installed at the base. Need more information, contact me.

What are you using for your pivot points?

Looks like something from a Dob telescope mount.



#15 Jawaid I. Abbasi

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Posted 28 November 2020 - 02:10 AM

Yes.. they are for DOB altitude knobs.



#16 Garribaldi

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Posted 30 November 2020 - 05:43 PM

            So here’s my two pesos on big bino mounting. I have APM 25x100 ED’s & purchased a Farpoint p-gram to use with them, they need 10lbs of weights on the end of the p-gram to balance them. The mount is fastened to an Oberwerk wooden surveyor style tripod. Setting up the tripod, mounting the p-gram, & then putting on the weights is a bit of a pain, but not too bad...however, The long square tubes of the mount & the extension holding the weights all contribute to wiggle & shake that takes a bit to settle down & touching the binoculars to focus or wind will start it moving again....so not a great solution. I also own a Celestron C6 & bought a Skywatcher alt-az mount for it that I use with the Oberwerk tripod. 
            I took the L-bracket off the Farpoint and mounted it to the Skywatcher mount with a short dovetail bar & mount my binoculars to the L bracket ( which one could probably build easily enough) if you didn’t have one. Other than looking up at the zenith, it works surprisingly well & I have the benefit of the slo-mo controls on the alt-az mount.



#17 Rich V.

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Posted 30 November 2020 - 06:52 PM

The long square tubes of the mount & the extension holding the weights all contribute to wiggle & shake that takes a bit to settle down & touching the binoculars to focus or wind will start it moving again....so not a great solution.

Garribaldi, I've found my heavier binos in 9-10# range work best with 15# of CW rather than the supplied 10#.  You may find the shorter CW rod extension required will help your oscillations settle down faster.

 

Rich




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