I only skimmed the responses but since they all seemed to be people sharing their opinions I will just respond directly to yours.
Nudging does indeed suck, many people here have decades of experience in astronomy and prefer to do things the old way, I despise manual work, I have limited time and I want to view, not star hop and constantly recenter. I do it with my refractor on its manual alt/az mount but that's a different sort of deal with a different purpose.
I started with a 6SE and moved to a CPC800 so I am familiar with the antics of the SE mount.
I would have suggested you get a better mount if you had any intention of AP since its a bit light and an alt/az, but for visual with tracking it will work quite well. Its a good OTA and could be stuck on an equatorial mount later if you wanted and keep the SE mount for light travel or quick nights. I totally forget what dovetail the SE uses (might be some SE only thing).
As was mentioned you REALLY need an external 12v power source. It will work OK sometimes on the internal AA batteries but a great many instances of the tracking going off or going outright berserk and trying to point straight up and the like were caused by the motors taking too much power from the electronics and a good 12v pack fixes that. You will hear the difference in the sound of the motors even. Many people use home made cheap options but the best option I found was this:
Which is seemingly expensive but it runs the telescope all night and is small enough and light enough that you can strap it to the outside of the arm on the 8SE and have zero cord wrap issues. I still use the thing to power my much bigger CPC800 all night and used it as backup power for my iPad with its usb ports as well. You still need the AA batteries in the mount though I can't remember what didn't work right for me when I tried it without, (time and location memory maybe?)
If you are broke an only view outside your back door you could get away with the AC adapter (handy as a backup anyways) but mind the cord wrap (and tripping over it).
You also need a dew shield:
This is also a super popular accesory (I have one):
It flattens the field for AP as well as turning the scope into an F6.3 (normally F10) which means less magnification but more light and a wider angle of view. It basically turns any given eyepiece into a lower power one. You would take it off for planets or close ups of parts of the moon, both of which are small and bright where you want max magnification and possibly for stuff like double stars. It made a very visible difference on DSO's for me. You will definitely notice the DSO's are fainter between the 10" dob and the 8" sct.
I no longer use it because I went to wide angle 2" eyepieces but that's many hundreds if not thousands to do so I wouldn't bother at this point. There are some excellent 1.25" 82 degree eyepieces out there if you really want a wider image and have the money but still very reasonably priced compared to 2".
As for the usage of the scope do the initial one time setup for time and location and get the red dot finder aligned properly (keep spare batteries for when you forget it turned on also) then pick 2 star manual calibration. Pick 2 bright stars about 90 degrees apart that you can clearly identify and then point at the first one. First you pick the star and then it tells you to center it, be accurate centering or it can get confused. Then select the second star and move to it as quickly as possible and get it accurately centered. This normally will work correctly and give you a close enough track that even at high power its close to the center of the view and you can just manually bump it over with the arrows to correct it and it will still track accurately.
It takes some practice to do it fast and going too slow or being way off center will cause the alignment to fail, but its not actually difficult, you just need to try it first to see how the horrible menus work. That hand controller is seriously 1980's crap. I actually use the celestron wifi doodad with my iPad with Sky Safari pro for alignment and controls and don't touch it anymore but it worked fine the whole time I had the 6SE once I got used to it. It is pretty simple to use.
I noticed on my old used 6SE that the bottom few manual slew speeds (important function to learn) didn't move the motors at all even with a 12v pack on it, no idea what new motors do. I ended up just using the middle speed for slow and the top speed for fast (5 and 9 i think)
To get the numbers to enter into the hand control to select targets get a simple star chart program on your phone if you don't have one already. I use sky safari (you don't need the pro version) but there are many choices. Using paper charts or books with goto would be very clunky. I like using the "tonight's best" menu to see what the most interesting stuff up at the moment is (I make the menu sort by altitude so the highest stuff is listed first) and then pick like a buffet, there is lots of stuff I wouldn't have even known to look for until it showed me. You just select what you want to see, click info and get its M number or whatever and then enter it into the hand control. The ability of the software to zoom way in and out is also critical to me. I turned off the auto aiming (pointing the phone to move the screen) because it kept accidentally going in the wrong direction while I was typing, easier to just move around by swiping.
Eyepieces is too much to cover but I used the celestron zoom when I had the 6se and what I went to after wouldn't really work for you so no help there. You might already have what you need. I found 8mm was the most magnification I needed seeing wise and I never got around to using anything wider than the 24mm end of the zoom.
OK that's my ramble on the topic (umm crap, that got long winded).
Edited by PPPPPP42, 01 November 2020 - 06:02 AM.