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Any tips for lunar surface PIPP and stacking?

astrophotography beginner Celestron CMOS eq imaging moon
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#1 Humble Narrator

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Posted 31 October 2020 - 02:03 PM

Dear all,

 

I have captured some lunar surface video using drift method (which I guess makes the odds of processing a sharp image even smaller). I have tried PIPP several times and only once I got some success wherein approx 100 frames (out of 600) were in the PIPP output .avi file. Austostakkert analysis resulted in 20% of frames with 50% quality. Barely could sharpen in Registax before it becamse noisy.

 

Youtube tutorials were mostly on images captured using motorized tracking and since I have a manual EQ mount I wonder if it is too ambitious to expect lunar surface imaging.

 

Any tips would be deeply appreciated. Thank you in advance.

 

HN

 

Equipment: Celestron 130EQ, 2X Barlow, UV-IR Filter, SV305

 

[SVBONY SV305]
Output Format=AVI files (*.avi)
Colour Space=RGB24
Capture Area=1920x1080
Pan=0
Tilt=0
Black Level=1
USB Speed=1
Frame Rate Limit=Maximum
Gain=1
Exposure=0.00018
Timestamp Frames=Off
White Bal (B)=129
White Bal (G)=75
White Bal ®=112
Sharpness=17
Saturation=80
Gamma=0.58
Contrast=26
Banding Threshold=35
Banding Suppression=0
Apply Flat=None
Subtract Dark=None
#Black Point
Display Black Point=0
#MidTone Point
Display MidTone Point=0.5
#White Point
Display White Point=1
Notes=
TimeStamp=2020-09-26T01:05:52.6279676Z
SharpCapVersion=3.2.6383.0

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20_08_20_pipp_lapl5_ap17_Moon1.jpg


#2 RedLionNJ

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Posted 31 October 2020 - 02:32 PM

I'm not 100% certain what you mean by 'drift method', but I'm going to assume you mean by letting the target drift across the sensor while recording at a relatively high frame rate.

 

 

I see you have a color cam, so I would hope you're recording in raw format and leaving the color recomposition to AutoStakkert.

 

 

If you're doing all that, then I'm not sure the introduction of PIPP is going to buy you anything. Why not just let AutoStakkert handle the sorting, alignment and stacking all in one go?

 

I agree the result above is not real sharp, but that could be due to seeing, poor focus or other reasons.



#3 QuietStar

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Posted 31 October 2020 - 02:56 PM

Not trying to highjack your post, but on a related question. Why do you need to go through so much processing for lunar images? The moon is bright and can be captured with low ISO in a single frame. I have a mechanical mount also and do lunar images with direct focus on my DSLR. I plan on buying a dedicated camera in the future and thought you used video capture on planets to correct for poor seeing and low illumination, but this wouldn’t apply to lunar imaging. I have a couple pics in my gallery and would be interested in finding out how they could be improved.

 

Sorry I can’t answer your question and hope my post doesn’t distract from your topic. I will follow this post and hope to learn more about the subject.

 

Thanks for posting, Best wishes and Clear Skies



#4 Humble Narrator

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Posted 31 October 2020 - 11:34 PM

I'm not 100% certain what you mean by 'drift method', but I'm going to assume you mean by letting the target drift across the sensor while recording at a relatively high frame rate.

 

 

I see you have a color cam, so I would hope you're recording in raw format and leaving the color recomposition to AutoStakkert.

 

 

If you're doing all that, then I'm not sure the introduction of PIPP is going to buy you anything. Why not just let AutoStakkert handle the sorting, alignment and stacking all in one go?

 

I agree the result above is not real sharp, but that could be due to seeing, poor focus or other reasons.

Thank you for the response. I will follow your suggestion and see what happens.



#5 Humble Narrator

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Posted 31 October 2020 - 11:35 PM

Not trying to highjack your post, but on a related question. Why do you need to go through so much processing for lunar images? The moon is bright and can be captured with low ISO in a single frame. I have a mechanical mount also and do lunar images with direct focus on my DSLR. I plan on buying a dedicated camera in the future and thought you used video capture on planets to correct for poor seeing and low illumination, but this wouldn’t apply to lunar imaging. I have a couple pics in my gallery and would be interested in finding out how they could be improved.

 

Sorry I can’t answer your question and hope my post doesn’t distract from your topic. I will follow this post and hope to learn more about the subject.

 

Thanks for posting, Best wishes and Clear Skies

You do have a point and I agree with you. Shouldn't need much processing. I will keep this in mind. Thank you!



#6 Tom Glenn

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Posted 01 November 2020 - 12:05 AM

Not trying to highjack your post, but on a related question. Why do you need to go through so much processing for lunar images? The moon is bright and can be captured with low ISO in a single frame. I have a mechanical mount also and do lunar images with direct focus on my DSLR. I plan on buying a dedicated camera in the future and thought you used video capture on planets to correct for poor seeing and low illumination, but this wouldn’t apply to lunar imaging. I have a couple pics in my gallery and would be interested in finding out how they could be improved.

 

Sorry I can’t answer your question and hope my post doesn’t distract from your topic. I will follow this post and hope to learn more about the subject.

 

Thanks for posting, Best wishes and Clear Skies

This is not true.  The Moon is imaged through the exact same atmosphere as the planets, and individual frames are subject to the same turbulence.  Individual frames do have higher SNR because you can use lower gain, but this only means that you can stack (and collect) fewer frames.  The impact of stacking is still very considerable.  I have frequently posted examples of individual frames for reference.  Here is one example (links in text).  Look at the final image in post #1, and compare it to the best individual frame in post #14.  Original source is below. 

 

https://www.cloudyni...tember-30-2018/

 

To the OP, what is your shutter speed here.  It says exposure is 0.00018.  Is that seconds, or some other unit?  If seconds, then it is 0.18ms, which is sabotaging your image.  With that exposure you are gathering almost no light, and you should expose about 10x-100x longer than that (well over 1ms, up to perhaps 20ms per frame), but I also don't understand the gain scale here (what is gain=1)?  I'm not familiar with your camera or with Sharpcap's log files.  It appears you are not capturing raw data, but are applying contrast and other adjustments in the recording.  I'm also not sure if RGB24 is raw format (non-debayered) or not.  You want to capture the raw file, with no alterations (no contrast, sharpness, or gamma).  




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