143 replies to this topic

[spitonoikokurhs]

Based on the mechanical drawings from QHY below, making the adapter is doable. 

Backfocus is 14.3mm from the top of the camera where E-mount requires 18mm flange to focus distance. E-mount bayonet requires at least 5mm from the flange but QHY268 has wide opening that can hold this bayonet inside. Attachment to camera is just 6 M3 screws.

I may be able to design 3D model for it but I don't have QHY268 nor lens to test. 

If there is enough interest on this design and someone who has 3D printer is willing to try and feedback to me, I may try design one but it may take some time to actually do it.

 

 

 

 

 

Hi there mate, I started making an adapter with a friend.

Problem is I do not know the size/number of the revolutions for the threaded part.

So far we designed this (check file attached). 2 things im missing

 

1) How many revolutions-size should be the 3mm threaded part

2) I dont know how to measure the same thing for the 3 screws will lock the adapter on the lens:

(below is one of these 3 screws)

 

any ideas? thanks!

Attached Thumbnails

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[Jinux]

Hi there mate, I started making an adapter with a friend.

Problem is I do not know the size/number of the revolutions for the threaded part.

So far we designed this (check file attached). 2 things im missing

 

1) How many revolutions-size should be the 3mm threaded part

2) I dont know how to measure the same thing for the 3 screws will lock the adapter on the lens:

(below is one of these 3 screws)

 

any ideas? thanks!

Um.. I'm not sure how to answer. Obviously I don't have actual camera and these are my 'understanding' based on drawing.

You draw 54mm with thread. How did you get this from the drawing? Mechanical drawing has it as 56mm opening and I don't now whether there is thread. If you have the camera and thread measuring tool, you may be able to figure out the pitch. Most common astronomy thread has 0.75mm pitch (like M42/0.75 or M48/0.75 etc.), so if there is any thread, that would be my first guess.

My original thought was to use M3 screw on outer ring but if there is thread, it's better to use it. 

Edited by Jinux, 04 November 2021 - 12:18 PM.

[xonefs]

BTW, I designed an adaptor to attach Sony E-mount lens to ASI2600.

Main idea is to create the same hole pattern as ASI2600 tilt adapter, so that using these hole to attach ASI2600 and tilt adjust if necessary.

Holes have matching threads to fit.

I haven't uploaded it to Thingyverse yet and waiting for Eric's test report to see there is something need to fix.

I'll update this thread after upload.

 

-Jinux

 

ps. I have one test copy of original E-mount to ASI pro camera adapter. This doesn't have protruding origin marker but usable. I'll make a dot with marker.

If anyone wants it, please PM me. It's free and you pay only postage.

Hi is this available to download/test out now?

Edited by xonefs, 10 November 2021 - 10:49 PM.

[Jinux]

Hi is this available to download/test out now?

Yes, it's open to anyone in Thingyverse.

 

https://www.thingive...m/thing:4881296

[Jinux]

I have a "kind of" good news.

I've been thinking of making E-mount to ASI2600 series adapter with machined Aluminum and finally tuned up my desktop CNC and cut it out.

There were a couple of mistakes during processing but fixture plan was working for both side cutting.

Now I need to tune up the design to make tight fit then I may try Aluminum cut.

Biggest problem. I still don't have a lens to use with.

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

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[xonefs]

Very nice! I still dont have a 2600mc… i just got a voigtlander 65mm apo and it is incredible though so im already thinking about the 110

[erictheastrojunkie]

I have a "kind of" good news.

I've been thinking of making E-mount to ASI2600 series adapter with machined Aluminum and finally tuned up my desktop CNC and cut it out.

There were a couple of mistakes during processing but fixture plan was working for both side cutting.

Now I need to tune up the design to make tight fit then I may try Aluminum cut.

Biggest problem. I still don't have a lens to use with.

Whelp, let me know if you need someone to test, I'll give it a go with my Voigtlanders (and honestly I'll pay again for a metal version even though the plastic one has worked well so far). 

 

One thing I'd suggest, one the back (camera side) of the ZWO tilt adapter for the 2600mc is a channel where a thin piece of rubber foam sits, this allows for the plate to have a small barrier that allows for easier tilt adjustment and a bit of a buffer between the plate and the camera body. Maybe machine the adapter slightly thinner so you can apply a thin piece of compressible material to act a barrier between the plate and the camera body. 

[erictheastrojunkie]

Very nice! I still dont have a 2600mc… i just got a voigtlander 65mm apo and it is incredible though so im already thinking about the 110

I own the 50mm, 65mm and 110mm, I'll probably get the 35mm next year (I tested it this year, it's great) if all my money isn't sucked up by my soon to be first child IMO the 50mm/35mm are best, the 110mm is second, and 65mm last. It blows my mind that Voigtlander has created such amazing lenses in such small bodies, the construction is marvelous and they are perfect for astro. The ONLY complaint I have is that the focus throw distance near infinity is very small which makes getting exact focus a bit of a challenge, I've heard that the m-mount version of the new 35mm/50mm lenses has a slightly longer infinity focus throw and I'm tempted to rent one and see how it performs compared to the e-mount version. 

[xonefs]

Ha **** i heard the others were better but 65 is such a nice focal length compared to 50/35 so i wanted to get it. Ill prob have to get the others anyway

Yeah focusing is pretty rough honestly. If i did a more serious setup id prob have to rig up an eaf.

That might be a good idea anyway if i could do a sort of univeral mount with multiple lenses and a belt focus on my mirrorless until i get a 2600

Are there rings that fit the lenses well? Even if different sizes

Edited by xonefs, 16 November 2021 - 01:10 AM.

[Jinux]

Whelp, let me know if you need someone to test, I'll give it a go with my Voigtlanders (and honestly I'll pay again for a metal version even though the plastic one has worked well so far). 

 

One thing I'd suggest, one the back (camera side) of the ZWO tilt adapter for the 2600mc is a channel where a thin piece of rubber foam sits, this allows for the plate to have a small barrier that allows for easier tilt adjustment and a bit of a buffer between the plate and the camera body. Maybe machine the adapter slightly thinner so you can apply a thin piece of compressible material to act a barrier between the plate and the camera body. 

i'll definitely send you one for testing when i tune up design to make a good fit. Several hundreds of people downloaded my models but none reported but you. Who else I can ask it for? 

Due to recent job change, life got a lot busier than before so progress is very slow though. And I don't have a lens. Why am I keep developing this? 

[erictheastrojunkie]

i'll definitely send you one for testing when i tune up design to make a good fit. Several hundreds of people downloaded my models but none reported but you. Who else I can ask it for? 

Due to recent job change, life got a lot busier than before so progress is very slow though. And I don't have a lens. Why am I keep developing this? 

I feel you, it's crazy season for sure with the holidays coming up, my wife and I are expecting our first child at the end of the year and so things are very hectic for us right now as well. Astrophotography has definitely taken a backseat for me over the last few months as well. 

[tsk1979]

Wow, was looking for just this. I have a Rokinon 135/2 E mount I would love to use with my QHY268C lens. I do not have a 3D printer. I am okay to pay you if somebody can make this for me?

[cucubits]

Wow, was looking for just this. I have a Rokinon 135/2 E mount I would love to use with my QHY268C lens. I do not have a 3D printer. I am okay to pay you if somebody can make this for me?

Where are you located? If by chance you're nearby I'd gladly print the part for you.

[tsk1979]

Where are you located? If by chance you're nearby I'd gladly print the part for you.

I am in San Jose, California! So too far away. But I am willing to pay for shipping  and cost

 

I really want to use my E mount lenses with the QHY268C camera!

[tsk1979]

Okay  I *may* have found someone local to make it for me

 

https://www.thingive...m/thing:4881296

 

I am just wondering, is there a place to throw in a filter since the color cameras do not have IR cut and therefore need it

[cucubits]

I am just wondering, is there a place to throw in a filter since the color cameras do not have IR cut and therefore need it

 

Doesn't look like there's room for a filter. If you take off the tilt adapter to replace with the printed one, there's no more room.

 

On the other hand, the glass in front of the sensor on the 2600MC is already IR cut so no need for that specific filter. It would be interesting to mount different astro filters though...
 

Edit: just noticed you have the QHY camera, not sure about this, I may recall reading that the glass on that is indeed not UV/IR cut.

Edited by cucubits, 13 January 2022 - 02:01 PM.

[LaurenceT]

i'll definitely send you one for testing when i tune up design to make a good fit. Several hundreds of people downloaded my models but none reported but you. Who else I can ask it for? 

Due to recent job change, life got a lot busier than before so progress is very slow though. And I don't have a lens. Why am I keep developing this? 

Well, I can report a 98% success with your updated modelling of the adapter for the ASI533MC Pro to the Samyang 135mm F2 Sony E fit. I was starting to despair of ever finding a way to connect a ZWO ccd camera. I had the lens from way back for my still photography as I'm heavily into Sony and I just love fast 135mm primes and the Samyang was a very economical way of adding one to my collection of lenses.

I initially used the lens with a modified Sony A5000 which I found very fiddly to use particularly with Astroberry/Stellarmate. I didn't really want to go to the trouble of selling the lens and buying a larger refractor as I'm keen to keep things light and cheap on my EQ modified Skywatcher AZ GTi mount.

 

I saw the ASI533MC Pro come up for sale on Facebook at a good price so I discussed the compatibility issues with the seller and told him of your latest iteration of the adapter design. He offered to print one on his 3D printer and it fitted the 533 perfectly but would it fit the Samyang lens? I decided to drive the 90 odd miles up to his house to see if it fitted. It was a 98% perfect fit! So what was the 2% about? The lens slides very easily onto the adapter but has the tendency to slide all the way off as well if not very carefully handled. In fact this afternoon the whole assembly came apart in my hands, I caught the camera easily enough but the rest bounced off the sofa and slid gracefully onto the carpet. Lucky to be indoors so no harm done. My solution is not very aesthetically pleasing but does the job. I cut some strips of duct tape and covered the connection, it's absolutely stable now.

 

The acid test came this evening when by some miracle there were no clouds over my patch of southern England. I fired up Sharpcap and I was able to focus past infinity and back to achieve focus on a bright star and considering the short focal length of the lens I could just make out good balanced Bahtinov spikes. I could really do with a Bahtinov mask more suitable for a short focal length lens. Now to find an Asiair Plus and wave goodbye to Ekos.......

Edited by LaurenceT, 24 February 2022 - 04:57 PM.

[Borodog]

Use gaffer’s tape instead; it won’t leave the nasty residue that duct tape will. It’s also black and will look much better.

[Jinux]

Well, I can report a 98% success with your updated modelling of the adapter for the ASI533MC Pro to the Samyang 135mm F2 Sony E fit. I was starting to despair of ever finding a way to connect a ZWO ccd camera. I had the lens from way back for my still photography as I'm heavily into Sony and I just love fast 135mm primes and the Samyang was a very economical way of adding one to my collection of lenses.

I initially used the lens with a modified Sony A5000 which I found very fiddly to use particularly with Astroberry/Stellarmate. I didn't really want to go to the trouble of selling the lens and buying a larger refractor as I'm keen to keep things light and cheap on my EQ modified Skywatcher AZ GTi mount.

 

I saw the ASI533MC Pro come up for sale on Facebook at a good price so I discussed the compatibility issues with the seller and told him of your latest iteration of the adapter design. He offered to print one on his 3D printer and it fitted the 533 perfectly but would it fit the Samyang lens? I decided to drive the 90 odd miles up to his house to see if it fitted. It was a 98% perfect fit! So what was the 2% about? The lens slides very easily onto the adapter but has the tendency to slide all the way off as well if not very carefully handled. In fact this afternoon the whole assembly came apart in my hands, I caught the camera easily enough but the rest bounced off the sofa and slid gracefully onto the carpet. Lucky to be indoors so no harm done. My solution is not very aesthetically pleasing but does the job. I cut some strips of duct tape and covered the connection, it's absolutely stable now.

 

The acid test came this evening when by some miracle there were no clouds over my patch of southern England. I fired up Sharpcap and I was able to focus past infinity and back to achieve focus on a bright star and considering the short focal length of the lens I could just make out good balanced Bahtinov spikes. I could really do with a Bahtinov mask more suitable for a short focal length lens. Now to find an Asiair Plus and wave goodbye to Ekos.......

Thank you for the feedback!

Sony E-mount has locking pin on the body, i.e., this adapter should have one but it's difficult to create it with spring and push button with 3D print. I intentionally designed the model has tight fit when it's all the way twisted in when it's printed in my printer. But every 3D printer  has their own margin. So there is a good chance that it can be loose if it's printed by other printers.

Now I'm checking the model I've uploaded, it's before I improved fitting and tilt. 
I may upload better fitting model once I turn on my "personal" computer which I haven't turn on since Dec/21. 

[LaurenceT]

Use gaffer’s tape instead; it won’t leave the nasty residue that duct tape will. It’s also black and will look much better.

It seems that gaffer tape and duct tape are the same thing in the UK at least. Point taken about the tape colour. I may be moving the Samyang on as I've just bought a used Evoguide 50ED to use instead. The main advantage being is that I'll be able to use filters but also avoid the taping issue. I'll have to buy a field flattener I know and also a 3d printed bracket system from Astrokraken in France but I can also sell on the existing bracket system I have for the sammy.

[cucubits]

Has anyone found a way to hack/mod/diy power to Sony lenses which can't be focused unpowered?

 

I have a nice 30mm prime which I'd love to try widefield with a 2600MC but sadly the focus is drive by wire. The lack of aperture controls could be bypassed by removing the lenses from the camera while powered and set to the desired A but this way there's no way to focus it.

Edited by cucubits, 04 March 2022 - 12:15 PM.

[xonefs]

Definitely not, and no lens could be worth that effort.

[erictheastrojunkie]

Has anyone found a way to hack/mod/diy power to Sony lenses which can't be focused unpowered?

 

I have a nice 30mm prime which I'd love to try widefield with a 2600MC but sadly the focus is drive by wire. The lack of aperture controls could be bypassed by removing the lenses from the camera while powered and set to the desired A but this way there's no way to focus it.

Nope, it's a very frustrating and stupid issue with modern lens design, the migration to focus by wire is a completely pointless and stupid thing to incorporate into lens design that drives me insane. It makes focusing for astro purposes significantly more difficult and if you want to adapt lenses it makes it impossible. The astromechanics canon lens adapter allows for control of canon lenses, but nothing exists for other lens manufacturers. 

 

Focus by wire sucks, it's why I'm using the Voigtlander lenses on my 2600mc, they are great, small/lightweight, and fully manual. 

[xonefs]

Can you post some full uncropped frames from your voigtlanders on that setup?

[erictheastrojunkie]

Can you post some full uncropped frames from your voigtlanders on that setup?

Sorry, I just saw this and forgot to respond, if I get a chance (and I remember, just had a baby a few months back so getting a precious few minutes is hard to come by right now) I'll try and post some shots. 

 

Killing some time at work I decided to mock up a different version of the adapter Jinux made, I noticed that the width of the Sony E-mount meant it was too wide to put M48 threads directly around the side of the E-mount adapter, but you can put M54 threads around it. So I downloaded the thingiverse file and mashed it with a M54 adapter file I found on thingiverse to make this:

 

 

My wife bought me a 3D printer recently so I'm going to try and print this, I also bought the ZWO M54 tilt plate which I'll put on my 2600mc Pro. Then I can throw the adapter on the E-mount lens and just thread it directly into the M54 tilt adapter on the camera. The reason I wanted to go this route rather than use the E-mount tilt plate that Jinux designed is because I was having to swap the tilt plates back and forth when I'd use the camera with my telescopes (or non-E-mount lenses) and then with the E-mount lenses, with the M54 tilt adapter I can leave that on and just attach the camera to all my optics with some various M54 adapters which is easier. I can (hopefully) just 3D print a bunch of these M54 E-mount adapters and leave them on the lenses. Next week we're headed to Southern Utah and if we can get a free night to take some pictures I'll give it a shot, assuming I get the M54 tilt plate and can print the adapter before then.