And then suggested "we" should only do lights. That's incorrect.
Nah... Put on someone else's thinking camp for a minute rather than how your path to success was shaped.
The 533 is a beautiful modern sensor - very easy, very forgiving, very new person friendly. It's square, it's small. It frames easily, It doesn't show field curvature much at all because its so tiny and it fits many scopes/optics because of these characteristics. It's also cooled, It has no amp glow to speak of, it has very little (negligible) dark current.
If we want to espouse the fun, utility and enjoyment of a hobby then why not welcome people to use the 533 and not overly concern them about calibration to get started- with examples to boot? Most people buying the 533 would be thrilled to just start imaging. It yields an image without calibration that is beautiful and easy to work with and can be fine tuned with proper calibration as experience builds...
The number one cited reason of failure in every new person I've helped to this hobby is improper calibration...
A bad flat looks much worse than wondering what a dust most looks like... and if someone learns to dither motes may not survive. Ditto with donuts.. Similarly, a light leaked dark because someone said to take darks will spoil worse than uncalibrated - on these particular sensors.
This isn't an excuse to NOT calibrate and IGNORE SNR or any of that - but mostly to remind us that we have new tech and new people to the hobby may not have to do things we did and that's not a bad thing.
Many people starting with the 533 won't have as much complexity to worry about either... so simplicity through and through has its merits for enjoyment and optimization/tweaking can come with experience rather than mandate.
Now, if you chose to run a 183 or even a 1600 - you absolutely have to dark calibrate period or you will have massive amp glow and pattern noise in your master light images no matter what.
Edited by sn2006gy, 28 December 2020 - 12:26 PM.