12 replies to this topic

[xumaxer]

Hi

 

Doing some lens cleaning on my Taka FS102NSV something went wrong.

Somehow the cleaning fluid got in between the two lenses and I cannot wipe it out since the housing has to be disassembled which I am VERY afraid to do and loose collimation. The fluid naturally has dried out rendering observations useless.

Can someone help me out here?

I live in Europe and if by any chance any european living fellow astronomer has some hints, I'll be much appreciated (just because sending the scope to the US and get it back would be extremely costly).

Surely I am also interested in US help or any other country for that matter,

 

Photo pictures the dried fluid on the inner lens face! Not scratches...

Thx

 

Clear skies

xumie

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[spencerj]

Sorry about the cleaning mishap.  That is unfortunate, but visual images through the scope are not likely to be affected.  It is tough to look at and you want to get it fixed, but the scope should continue to put up fantastic views in the mean time.

[Marcus Roman]

Hi

 

Doing some lens cleaning on my Taka FS102NSV something went wrong.

Somehow the cleaning fluid got in between the two lenses and I cannot wipe it out since the housing has to be disassembled which I am VERY afraid to do and loose collimation. The fluid naturally has dried out rendering observations useless.

Can someone help me out here?

I live in Europe and if by any chance any european living fellow astronomer has some hints, I'll be much appreciated (just because sending the scope to the US and get it back would be extremely costly).

Surely I am also interested in US help or any other country for that matter,

 

Photo pictures the dried fluid on the inner lens face! Not scratches...

Thx

 

Clear skies

xumie

Dissembling flint and crown of a Takahashi FS102 is not an impossible task and an expert astro amateur in your location should be able to do it. Don’t try personally if you have no experience, an expert can do it and in few minutes can fix the issue. I got my FS102’s optics dissambled, cleaned and realligned perfectly one year ago from a friend. Look for some in your location.

[peta62]

I may be wrong, but I think lenses should be sealed and not allow this to happen. I would contact the seller or Takahashi directly. Either for action or at least authorised advice.

I agree with spencerj visual impact will be negligible.

[TheUser]

Did you detached objective holder from the tube before cleaning?

What was the fluid composition?

And these picture been taken after the fluid has volatilized?

[Bomber Bob]

Dissembling flint and crown of a Takahashi FS102 is not an impossible task and an expert astro amateur in your location should be able to do it. Don’t try personally if you have no experience, an expert can do it and in few minutes can fix the issue. I got my FS102’s optics dissambled, cleaned and realligned perfectly one year ago from a friend. Look for some in your location.

Hate that it happened!!  I wouldn't leave it stained, I'd clean it myself, but I've worked on 100's of lenses over the past 40+ years.  Too bad you're not in the USA:  I've cleaned, repaired, & tested dozens of lenses for CN members -- free of charge...

[Bomber Bob]

I may be wrong, but I think lenses should be sealed and not allow this to happen. I would contact the seller or Takahashi directly. Either for action or at least authorised advice.

I agree with spencerj visual impact will be negligible.

Unfortunately, Tak doublets are in similar cells to other quality lenses -- moisture can get between the elements.  In 3 years with my 1984 FC-50, I've cleaned the outer faces several times; haven't had to clean between the elements yet, but if it needed it, I'd crack it open...

[starman876]

There have been plenty of post on how to clean objectives. It really is not that hard to do. It should be an air spaced doublet.

[ccwemyss]

You just have to be super careful to not use anything that will etch the fluorite. It's softer than regular glass. 

 

Chip W. 

[starman876]

Bottom line is that if you do not want to do it send it to Texas Nautical   and let them do it. Chip is right, the Fluorite is very soft and if you have not cleaned any lenses this is not the lens to learn on.

[Bomber Bob]

You just have to be super careful to not use anything that will etch the fluorite. It's softer than regular glass. 

 

Chip W. 

To Clean Fluorite Elements:  I wrap a large cotton ball in 2 sheets of Nikon lens tissue, dampen it with Nikon lens cleaner, and drag that across the face with no downward pressure -- AFTER using the puffer & brush to remove any trash.  Once it's clean, I fog the surface with my breath (pre- brushing, flossing, & Listerine optional), and polish with a dry tissue ball.  So far, so good.

 

I use my FC-50 a lot, so it gets dusty; and, with all The Swamp humidity, that gunk can get moist, then dry on the glass.  If the trash won't come off with puffer & brush, I clean it.  The Tiny Tak dares to be pushed to 100x per inch -- takes clear optics to get it there.

 

With all these fracs, prisms, mirrors, & eyepieces,  I should buy Nikon stuff by the pallet...

 

RELATED:  For my vintage achromatic refractors, I've tried alcohol, diluted vinegar (with an immediate water rinse!), peroxide (mold removal), and methanol.  IME, good old isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is as good as Nikon fluid -- but I make sure it's pure alcohol, with no additives, soaps, fragrances, etc.  With NIKON or similar lens cleaners, less is more; and, if sprayed directly on the lens, it can bubble up, drip, & run.  That's why I wet the tissue rather than the lens.

Edited by Bomber Bob, 07 January 2021 - 10:27 AM.

[LukaszLu]

Hi,if you do not want to touch it and prefer to find a pro who will do it for you, try to ask for help (and check the price) at teleskop-spezialisten.de. They should clean the lens and perform full colimation plus testing.

Edited by LukaszLu, 07 January 2021 - 11:36 AM.

[xumaxer]

Hi

Thanks everyone.

Will not try it myself.

I'll get in touch with "teleskope" in Germany.

Clear skies