13 replies to this topic

[RonaldNC]

I'm still relatively new at DSO imaging and processing.  However, I decided to try a more difficult object... NGC7380.  I am really disappointed with the results, but am not sure whether the cause is my data or my processing... or both.  I'm hoping that some of you might take a shot at processing (and post the results)... will help me know the source of my problem.

 

Here's the data:

• 80mm refractor (F6)/ASI183MC Pro camera/PHD2 Guided with ZWO 30mm(F4)/ASI120MC
• 89 lights - 120 secs, 120 gain, -10c, 10 offset
• 20 darks
• 20 flats
• 20 bias
• Subs stacked with APP.  No modifications/stretching.

There are challenges with this object from my location:

• It is in the direction of Raleigh, NC, which provides substantial light pollution
• There are several subs that include power lines
• Seeing and transparency were from below average to average
• I'm getting some "creeping" with my guiding... first time this has happened.

Here's the link:

https://www.dropbox....C7380.fits?dl=0

 

Appreciate any help!

Ron

Edited by RonaldNC, 24 January 2021 - 10:31 AM.

[Dynan]

Are you using a recommended UV/IR cut filter? I found it helped when I used the 183MC.

 

Anyway, I cropped out the center and ran it through Star Tools.

 

[Dynan]

And after StarNet...

 

 

Not sure what to recommend except more integration time.

 

(P.S. I'm still a beginner at Star Tools.)

[RonaldNC]

Are you using a recommended UV/IR cut filter? I found it helped when I used the 183MC.

 

Anyway, I cropped out the center and ran it through Star Tools.

 

NGC7380_2.jpg

Thanks for processing!

 

The results are a bit better than my attempts... but looks like I need more exposure time.

 

I didn't use any filters.  I have a UV/IR cut filter, but didn't think they were good for nebulae... am I mistaken?  I need to find some information on when to use various filters.

Thanks again!

Ron

[RonaldNC]

And after StarNet...

 

NGC7380_2_SN.jpg

 

Not sure what to recommend except more integration time.

 

(P.S. I'm still a beginner at Star Tools.)

ohhh... much better!

 

I've looked into using Star Tools, but it looks complicated.

 

Like you said... still needs more exposure... but very nice!

Ron

[Cfreerksen]

I attempted the wizard a couple of times and was never happy with my 183MC, EdgeHD8 and that target. It was always poorly defined after a couple of hours. Then I shot it as my very first target when I got the ASI1600MM and used narrowband (below). I was blown away. You could maybe try a filter? L-enhance would be a good choice.

 

Chris

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Edited by Cfreerksen, 24 January 2021 - 12:02 PM.

[Dynan]

Ivo Jager, the creator of Star Tools, processed some of my images when I had the 183MC. He suggested the UV/IR filter and the processing was much easier and better after that. Star colors were the main problem. And with the 183's shallow wells, keeping to the visible light helps.

 

And Star Tools is very easy to run a simple process through once you know only a few tricks. Of course, it get into great depth if that's what someone wants or needs. It's an amazing program.

[Dynan]

I can't get the colors that Mr. Cfreerksen can capture (He's my Hero!), but here's my rendition of the Wizard with the ASI533MC-Pro, using an Optolong L-eXtreme filter:

 

6.25 hours (75 x 300s)

ES ED127CF-FCD100

 

Edited by Dynan, 24 January 2021 - 12:15 PM.

[RonaldNC]

I attempted the wizard a couple of times and was never happy with my 183MC, EdgeHD8 and that target. It was always poorly defined after a couple of hours. Then I shot it as my very first target when I got the ASI1600MM and used narrowband (below). I was blown away. You could maybe try a filter? L-enhance would be a good choice.

 

Chris

Wow!  Nice image!

 

Is there a decent source for identifying the proper filter to use in each situation?

Ron

[RonaldNC]

I can't get the colors that Mr. Cfreerksen can capture (He's my Hero!), but here's my rendition of the Wizard with the ASI533MC-Pro, using an Optolong L-eXtreme filter:

 

6.25 hours (75 x 300s)

ES ED127CF-FCD100

 

NGC7380_WIZARD_2_CROP_R_S.jpg

Wow!  You guys are killing me!

 

Very nice!

Ron

[Dynan]

But remember...(appropriate) filters were used in both images.

 

Maybe try 60 second exposures to keep from saturating your pixels.

 

I think your gain and offset are perfect. Just my  

[Cfreerksen]

Wow!  You guys are killing me!

 

Very nice!

Ron

Mine is SHO. With the l-extreme you will get what Dynan has shot.

 

I was just trying to show that the target is pretty difficult with no filter especially with your level of light pollution. It will take a long integration to really bring out the details. OSC multi-band filters can be very helpful with light pollution and emission nebula targets.

 

Chris

Edited by Cfreerksen, 24 January 2021 - 01:52 PM.

[RonaldNC]

Mine is SHO. With the l-extreme you will get what Dynan has shot.

 

I was just trying to show that the target is pretty difficult with no filter especially with your level of light pollution. It will take a long integration to really bring out the details. OSC multi-band filters can be very helpful with light pollution and emission nebula targets.

 

Chris

Understood.  Per Dynan, I'll start using my IR/UV Cut filter immediately to see if I like the results.

 

I'm game to buy another filter... just want to make sure I get the right one.  The L-eXtreme filter looks good. However, can you explain the difference between it and the L-Pro and L-eNhance filters?  Do you need to use different ones in different situations?

 

Any help understand is appreciated.

Thanks!

Ron

[Cfreerksen]

I can't get the colors that Mr. Cfreerksen can capture (He's my Hero!), but here's my rendition of the Wizard with the ASI533MC-Pro, using an Optolong L-eXtreme filter:

 

6.25 hours (75 x 300s)

ES ED127CF-FCD100

 

NGC7380_WIZARD_2_CROP_R_S.jpg

Had some fun with curves on yours. Hope you don't mind.

 

Chris

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