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Best "If I Only Can Buy One" LP filter for DSLR

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#1 Mozhoven

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 10:48 AM

Hi Folks, 

 

I doubt if anyone remembers me (from so long ago that my posts are gone). I'm back out of hibernation and dipping my toes into astronomy again with astrophotography. I'm currently in a learning & gathering equipment phase and wanted to know what the best clip-in filter is for my setup. I've got a limited budget and am interested in getting some pics of the regular lineup: Milky Way, Orion, Pleiades, and Andromeda (to start). 

 

If you could only buy one LP filter, what would it be? I live under Bortle Class 5 skies. So far I've only looked at the Optolong L-Pro (which is just inside my budget) https://optcorp.com/...er-sony-ff-clip

 

Here's my gear:

 

  • Ioptron Sky Guider Pro
  • Sony A7III (unmodded)

    LENSES:
  • Sony 24-105 OSS G F4
  • Zeiss Batis 18mm F/2.8
  • Carl Zeiss Jena FLEKTOGON MC f/2.4 35mm
  • Mamiya/Sekor 55mm F1.4
  • Mamiya/Sekor 200mm F3.5

 

thanks in advance! 


Edited by Mozhoven, 25 January 2021 - 10:49 AM.


#2 astro rocketeer

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 11:59 AM

I had a Canon 60D astromodified and went through a bunch of clip in filters. The one I found that I like best that worked for me with nebulas and galaxies for both viewing and imaging was the Astronomik UHC filter (read under suitability and technical data). Excellent color balance. (Good even for unmodded cameras, just read the specs). Something that I've learned when I started and was buying filters are that some filters work well with modded and unmodified cameras (ones that has the "CCD" are to be used with modified camera). Jerry Lodriguss also wrote articles on unmodified cameras without filters and posted some results as well (eye opener to the subject) . For moon, I like the Baader Moon and Planetary filter. very good contrast, again for viewing and imgaing.



#3 erictheastrojunkie

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 12:02 PM

None, take that money and either buy a modded camera or get yours modified. A LP filter will not have a huge effect in your circumstances, what you need is your camera to capture more h-alpha if you are interested in emission nebula. 


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#4 Mozhoven

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Posted 26 January 2021 - 02:50 PM

Thanks for the replies so far!

 

So, I'm interested in modification but am concerned about two things

 

1) Can I (easily) take regular photos with the camera (or is it for astro-use only after the mod?)

 

2) Is the modification reversible? 

 

 

If No on both of those questions, what are my options (and expectations) for shooting with an unmodified camera for these scenarios: 

 

1) Emmission Nebula 

2) Galaxies

3) Star Cluster

4) Milky Way



#5 Sonya6500

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Posted 26 January 2021 - 09:58 PM

This is with an unmodded camera attached to a William Optics Z61. I have gotten equally good results on clusters and galaxies. I used an Astronomic CLS.

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#6 DubbelDerp

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Posted 27 January 2021 - 10:33 AM

Thanks for the replies so far!

 

So, I'm interested in modification but am concerned about two things

 

1) Can I (easily) take regular photos with the camera (or is it for astro-use only after the mod?)

 

2) Is the modification reversible? 

 

 

If No on both of those questions, what are my options (and expectations) for shooting with an unmodified camera for these scenarios: 

 

1) Emmission Nebula 

2) Galaxies

3) Star Cluster

4) Milky Way

You can take regular photos with a modded camera, but you will need to set a custom white balance for each lighting scenario to keep the additional red signal from overwhelming the image. I use my modded Canon for outdoor photography, and use a custom white balance set from a neutral grey card photographed in sunlight. Works fine for cloudy days, too. That part isn't difficult. I don't know how complicated it would be to reverse the modification, but it should be just a matter of opening the camera back up, removing the IR filter, and restoring the original. You can also get filters that you can add to the lens that mimic the stock filter over the sensor, but I haven't looked into them enough to be able to recommend any. But there are options.

 

Be advised, though, that if you shoot with a modded camera and CWB, your fall color photos are going to have some serious sizzle...

Annotation 2021-01-27 103133.jpg



#7 jgraham

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Posted 28 January 2021 - 12:43 PM

My vote...

Hutech IDAS LPS2
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#8 DoubleStaRR

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Posted 26 February 2021 - 11:43 AM

I just sent my Sony a7iii to Kolari Vision to have it Ha modified. I am going to try the custom white balance for daytime photography. They told me they are working on a clip in UV/IR filter for Sony to use for daytime photography that may be available later this year. 



#9 indio

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Posted 26 February 2021 - 06:00 PM

Thanks for the replies so far!

 

So, I'm interested in modification but am concerned about two things

 

1) Can I (easily) take regular photos with the camera (or is it for astro-use only after the mod?)

 

2) Is the modification reversible? 

 

 

If No on both of those questions, what are my options (and expectations) for shooting with an unmodified camera for these scenarios: 

 

1) Emmission Nebula 

2) Galaxies

3) Star Cluster

4) Milky Way

Though you could use modified camera for daytime photography that again involves using filter and/or relying on custom white balance. Reversing the modification will cost more money assuming you are not doing it yourself.

 

With your collection of lenses, especially Ziess, I would not modify the camera rather buy a used modified camera OR buy 'the ONE' filter(if there is one) .


Edited by indio, 26 February 2021 - 06:00 PM.


#10 galacticinsomnia

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Posted 27 February 2021 - 12:17 AM

On a full spectrum mod, I got Astronomik L-2 UV-IR Blocking, and works fantastic. :) 



#11 PederP

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Posted Yesterday, 01:01 AM

I like my L-pro filter for full range targets.

I wish astronomik would make a similar filter with their XT glass. For nebula I use the UHC xt filter and enjoy how i get less halo and perfect stars in the corners. Guess ordinary thickness clip in filters messes a bit with backfocus distance.




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