KE from the left.
Except for the rough and irregular surface and how it affects the edge, the edge looks otherwise very good to me.
About the roughness... I don't know for sure how much of it is the real surface condition or caused by less than idea test conditions.
Maybe it is the surface has not been cleaned well. I see what looks like dried residue about 1/2" from the edge, mostly but not only on right side and lower left. Also I see what I suspect could be signs of incomplete polish in this area. Might just be dried stuff on the surface, but I recommend after the next work session don't let slurry dry even for a moment on the mirror surface, wash clean with soap so you don't have to look past any residue to see the surface condition. And check closely for complete polish all the way to the edge all the way around.
There is some larger scale roughness, like a high area that looks like a column, same width as the central hill (1/3 diameter) extending all the way down to the edge 6 o'clock. Maybe there is some air turbulence between mirror and tester, or the mirror was put on stand to dry and has not been given time to completely stabilize at test room temperature. I pretty sure that column is from a temperature gradient in the glass or air.
Other than those not so out of the ordinary things, the mirror looks pretty good.
Make sure polish is complete.
That raised 70% zone extends from about 55% to the 84% zone.
If it were my mirror that is what I would work on now.
I think that is easier to fix by making a good sphere.
The f:8 sphere is close to a parabola is so it isn't like going out of your way.
I'm not sure if or how much of the apparent roughness is real. If it's real then work on making the surface smoother.
The central bump is most likely the result of your A-III strokes all having the same maximum overhang on left and right sides of the W. The edge of lap is under that black circle on the last stroke on far left and far right side of the W. That is what creates the zone. When you do MOT parabolizing strokes more than 1 trip around the barrel, change the width of the W just a little so the last stroke at sides of the W are a little (~ 1/4") closer to center. Next time around you could go 1/4" closer to center. Next time go back to the 30% circle. The more overhang the more effective the stroke. So don't think you need to linger doing any extra strokes near center to get that hill down. You just extend the side overhang of the W and the hill will get smaller. Avoid making a hole.
Another thing that helps to make a smoother center is to alter the stroke direction to more left right than forward back at the last one or two strokes at the far sides of the W. This allows taking the edge of the lap closer to the center of the mirror.
See the reasoning for this recommendation in post 42 in the linked thread.