Thank you, paaul.
I have found that for stacking DSLR images of the Moon, it is critical to either have excellent tracking, to use flats, or both. If you have an alt-az mount you may also have to deal with field rotation. I stack in Autostakkert and there is an option for field de-rotation, but I don't use it because I have equatorial mounts or platforms, depending on the telescope I am using. If your tracking is off as you shoot, because the sensor size is very large, there can be subtle non-flatness of the frame that is difficult to see visually but can cause stacking problems. If this happens you may have to limit your stack to fewer frames; I don't mean to stack a lower percentage, but rather limit the frames you are stacking to a shorter duration of shooting. The reason to use flats with a DSLR or other large sensor camera is that vignetting can become significant. I am not sure this will adversely affect tracking and stacking, but it can't help and hurts image quality. If you shoot during the daytime, it is easy to shoot "sky flats"; just move the Moon slightly out of frame and shoot the empty sky. Set your shutter speed to make sure all the channels are well exposed, especially the red. Don't touch the ISO. It needs to be the same as the light frames. Autostakkert allows you to generate master calibration frames. I have found that my sky flats seem to work even better as loaded as a master dark rather than a master flat (I have no idea why). Make sure to always use "Surface" rather than "Planet" tracking mode in Autostakkert for the Moon, even if it does not fill the frame (I have definitely seen "Planet" tracking cause alignment/stacking defects). These days I use an alignment point size of 48, regardless of camera, scope, or seeing. It just seems to work the best for me. Do not use rgb alignment for daytime images of the Moon. In fact you probably don't need it at all, so just leave it off.
For DSLR (mirrorless, really), my workflow is to use RawTherapee to batch convert all of the raw (Sony .ARW) files to pngs. Then I drag the flat field pngs into Autostakkert and generate a master from them. Then I load that master in AS as either a master flat or master dark (for daytime sky flats only) and drag all of the light frames into AS. Make sure that the option to use a 1.5 pixel horizontal and vertical blur to improve tracking is set. Set Surface mode, leave Noise Robust on 6, and click "Analyze". Once complete, set the alignment point size to 48, Multiscale on. Unless the Moon is full, I always set the minimum brightness to 0 just so nothing is missed in the dark of the terminator. I have played around with moving the alignment region box in the preview pane, but honestly I've never seen much difference, so usually I just leave it in the middle at the default size. Because I can shoot so few frames with the mirrorless camera, I usually go for noise reduction rather than sharpness, especially since I mostly take those images to share on social media where people will rarely view them at full size anyway. Hence I stack most of the frames; I usually shoot about 110-115 lights and stack 100 of them. I usually shoot 40 flats. Don't bother to drizzle, sharpen, RGB align, or any of that in Autostakkert.
After stacking I load the raw stack in Astra Image and use the Simple Deconvolution tool, Lucy-Richardson, Gaussian kernel, size usually 1.5 pixels, strength 5, 10 iterations. Once deconvolved, I save, as I have observed Astra Image to hang on subsequent operations after deconvolution. I save to a 16 bit per channel format like png. After that I usually use some combination of gamma/curves correction and/or linear stetch to get the smallest highlights to brilliant white and brighten up the overall image. Sometimes I will raise the black point a tad, sometimes not. These stretching operations are never the same way twice. It depends entirely on how the unstretched image turned out and whatever strikes my fancy at the time.
Because there are so few frames stacked, deconvolution will almost certainly introduce noticeable grain. I rarely denoise for a couple of reasons. First, I kind of like the grain; it gives it a more photographic film kind of feel. Second, the denoise algorithm in Astra Image is not very good in my opinion. It introduces more artifacts than it removes. Then again, I always try to denoise after deconvolution, which other members, Tom Glenn and aeroman, have advised me not to do. However it's difficult to see the effect of denoise on the un-sharpened image, so it's difficult to know how much to apply. I need to do more experimentation with this.
Finally, for sharing at a lower resolution, I will resize the image and use Unsharp Mask for a final sharpening. Alternately, I may resize the original raw stack first thing and then procede with deconvolution (remember to reduce your kernel size as well), which may result in less noise. Regardless of what the final image looks like I find that posting it to CN significantly degrades it. I can look at my final jpeg and the same file on CN and the CN version looks much worse. I don't know why. I find it very frustrating.
Anyway, that is my basic workflow for mirrorless camera lunar images. I do want to emphasis that this particular image was not shot with the mirrorless camera, but rather a cheap obsolete dedicated astro camera, so the capture process was different (SharpCap rather than Sony Remote). For examples of images shot with the mirrorless camera using the workflow above, see one of these threads: