I may have missed it but has anyone talked about moment arm?
Moment arm (aka moment of inertia) is a really big deal if you're pushing things. Even if you're not, paying attention to it is a hygiene item.
The base physics is that inertia is the mass times the square of the distance to the pivot point, while balance is simply mass times distance. When you square a number, it gets big fast. So mass being equal, a shorter and squatter configuration will outperform one that's longer or taller. Think about how an ice skater spins more easily when their arms and legs are pulled in. Your mount is trying to control the movement of all the stuff on top of it, and that's a job of fighting inertia.
And remember there are two components, one for each axis (RA, Dec).
Dec axis is affected by the length of the telescope, and how the weight is distributed. We put a heavy mirror or set of lenses at one end, and a heavy camera at the other, with a long tube in between. That's a problem. Unfortunately, focal length demands a certain length, so there is a minimum. But be sure to not make the problem worse by positioning a Finder or guide scope at either end, for example. Put them in the middle, over the Dec pivot point. If you have an option to use extra light weight extension tubes vs racking out the (heavy) focuser, do it. Just be careful about not overdoing it and causing vignetting of the camera sensor. An off-axis guider adds weight clear out at the camera end, which makes guiding in Dec harder.
RA axis is affected by the height of the telescope and stuff on top of it. Again, the diameter of the scope is fixed; just don't make the problem worse by mounting a guide scope up on stilts, or putting a USB hub or power distribution box on top. Add them below the OTA or even better, don't put them on the moving parts at all (i.e. down on the tripod is best). Also consider ADDING counterweights, and moving them up the shaft. 2x the weight at 1/2 the distance cuts the inertia in half (2w/4d). On a Newtonian, hanging the camera down instead of sideways or straight up will help lower the center of mass.
I went from an 8" Newtonian with all the bristles (camera, finder, guide scope) totaling 27lbs to a 5" refractor with nearly the same focal length. The refractor was actually heavier than the Newt, but with a smaller (and lighter) guide scope, the net came in at 26 lbs. Not much change. But when you look at the weight distribution, the refractor was smaller in diameter, and had lower mounting rings. I mounted the guider low and in the center, and I moved the finder (when used) to the center instead of at the end. The weights needed to move up about half way for balance. My overall guiding improved dramatically. I could probably do even better with additional counterweight up higher.
This was on an AVX mount, which tops out at 30lbs "rated" capacity. Note that I'm way over the 50% guideline. By focusing on the weight distribution, I was have been able to continue to use the AVX, saving me well over $2.5k and a lot of hassle that would have been planned for a new mount, investing that in the really nice refractor (*).
(*) I wish I could say I planned this, but the opportunity to grab the Stellarvue OTA came up right before Christmas, and I couldn't resist. The improvements in guiding were a very pleasant consequence, totally obvious only in hindsight.