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Brass Unitron 102mm F15 OTA

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#51 starman876

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 12:38 PM

I find it quite odd that it didn’t have baffles to begin with.

That tube is a Unitron home brewed project on Long Island.   They attached the lens cell and focuser and stopped there.  They were hoping I would finish the project.  I made sure the tube length is correct before I did anything else.   I have to check my stack of dew shields and see if any of them are brass. I will also copy the baffles from a normal 152 and space them the same locations in the tube.


Edited by starman876, 31 March 2021 - 12:42 PM.

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#52 semlin

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 02:12 PM

not sure if this was already said, but there is a guy selling custom 3d printedaperture masks in the classified section.

 

they appear to be quite literally exactly what you need, if you are ok with plastic.

 

https://www.cloudyni...any-telescopes/


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#53 starman876

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 06:22 PM

not sure if this was already said, but there is a guy selling custom 3d printedaperture masks in the classified section.

 

they appear to be quite literally exactly what you need, if you are ok with plastic.

 

https://www.cloudyni...any-telescopes/

Thanks for the tip.  Already talking with them on making some.   seems like surefire way of fixing the issue.



#54 ccwemyss

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 07:56 PM

I'm also going to get one to see if it might work for the 6" scope. He says the material is good to 340 degrees. I want to see if it will take paint well though, and be sure the fit is good. 

 

Chip W. 



#55 starman876

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 08:02 PM

I'm also going to get one to see if it might work for the 6" scope. He says the material is good to 340 degrees. I want to see if it will take paint well though, and be sure the fit is good. 

 

Chip W. 

Great. Let's hope it works out for both of us.  Rustoleum makes a paint that works well on plastic.  Works on any surface they claim.

 

https://www.amazon.c...0016H2KJA&psc=1



#56 Terra Nova

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Posted 31 March 2021 - 10:13 PM

You could cut your baffles out of sheetmetal as per this:

 

https://youtu.be/8QsiOppAU1s

 

And sheetmetal is easy to paint flat black.

 

As far as spacing the baffles, you could use something like flockboard to keep the in place. The nice thing about flockboard is that it springs to shape and stays in place with no need of any adhesive. Just calculate the inner circumference of the tube and cut a sheet that long, the width of the sheet corresponding to the baffle spacing. I used Protostar flockboard in my 6” Newtonian and it’s still exactly where itmwas initially positioned.


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#57 starman876

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Posted 01 April 2021 - 06:43 AM

You could cut your baffles out of sheetmetal as per this:

 

https://youtu.be/8QsiOppAU1s

 

And sheetmetal is easy to paint flat black.

 

As far as spacing the baffles, you could use something like flockboard to keep the in place. The nice thing about flockboard is that it springs to shape and stays in place with no need of any adhesive. Just calculate the inner circumference of the tube and cut a sheet that long, the width of the sheet corresponding to the baffle spacing. I used Protostar flockboard in my 6” Newtonian and it’s still exactly where itmwas initially positioned.

I like the direction I am going in.  I order something and see if it works lol.gif


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#58 starman876

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 09:08 PM

When I took the front lens cell off to insert the new baffles I found they had put a spacer at the end of the tube to take up the room between the cell and the brass tube.  Well that meant the baffles I just got had a diameter that was too small.  I figured the inside of the tube was the same diameter as the outside of a lens cell.  Guess I was wrong. frown.gif So I ordered some more baffles with the right diameter.  The spacer looks to be part of a 4" dew shield.   I will take pictures when the new baffles come in a couple of days.  


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