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Full disk - feedback requested

Astrophotography Beginner Imaging Solar
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#1 BinoGuy

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Posted 13 April 2021 - 06:36 PM

Hullo all,

 

New Lunt 50 DS. I have about 30 minutes on the new scope with the camera so I'm still learning what it can do and fiddling with the knobs. I'm still figuring out this whole processing thing and often I feel like I over sharpen and over correct so I'm aiming for a lighter touch. I'd like to know how to knock down the oversaturated area while still retaining detail on the other side of the disk. Feedback requested.

 

gallery_230512_9047_1179985.png

 

Workflow:

- ASI 120mm (guide camera from night rig)
- Firecap (no flats on this one)
- Best 51% of 1,000 images
- Autostakkert (1,130 auto APs*)
- IMGpg default settings
- Affinity** burn and dodge
- Affinity highpass
- Affinity mashed a bunch of buttons until I found color levels; it seems a little too much 'peach' color to me

 

 

* probably too many APs but I was getting a weird smearing over 15% of the disk on manual.
** gave up on GIMP for now and not ready to pay the Adobe tax.

 

//edited to add the camera.

 

 

Clear skies BG °¿°


Edited by BinoGuy, 13 April 2021 - 08:32 PM.

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#2 Scruffy-the-janitor

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Posted 13 April 2021 - 08:16 PM

Pretty good for a first shot! What kind of camera? I find that the over saturation can come from a few things. First two are fairly obvious being too high of an exposure or too much gain, turning those down will help with the wash out. Second, if you have a pressure tuned scope I find that if you turn it too much in one direction it will also start to cut off detail from the disk. I usually tune it with the eye piece in until I can see a good mix of proms on the edge and filaments on the disk.  As the scope heats up or cools down I find myself having to tweak the pressure tuning every so often until it hits equilibrium. 

 

Still on some of my shots I struggle with bright areas (near the edge, see top of attached photo) since I cannot fit the entire disk in one frame, So if anyone has any better ideas I'm all ears too

 

 

As far as APs I usually shoot for 700-900 or so. 

This video was pretty dope on acquisition and processing. Its long but walks you through start to finish for everything. 

 

https://www.youtube....mera

Attached Thumbnails

  • CN.jpg

Edited by Scruffy-the-janitor, 13 April 2021 - 08:16 PM.

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#3 BinoGuy

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Posted 13 April 2021 - 08:59 PM

Edited to add ASI 120mm, temporarily borrowed from mu nighttime guidescope.  Thank you got the kind words,

 

 Clear skies BG °¿°



#4 torsinadoc

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Posted 14 April 2021 - 03:55 AM

I try to get my histogram between 75-90% filled during exposure. I make sure I am not clipping either side. If your histogram is 100% filled you risk over exposing areas (bright spots with poor detail). 


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#5 hopskipson

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Posted 14 April 2021 - 06:46 PM

Hi BG

 

Congrats on the new scope and your first capture!  You really should start off by learning the nuances of your scope.  The tuning is everything.  I find that moving the image around on the chip will move the bright patch around.  I try to center it.  Using the flat frame calibration is a good way to rid them also.  Don't blow out your histogram, 80-90% is adequate.  I prefer a less sharp processing routine.  If you leave ImPPG in its default setting, I find it over-sharpens and introduces a lot of artifacts. There are a few tutorials by Marty Wise on image acquisition and processing. 


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#6 BinoGuy

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Posted 15 April 2021 - 01:32 PM

Thanks James.  I watch the Marty stuff but have trouble seeing the settings he's using in the software.  Maybe I'll enlist an assistant with better eyesight.

 

 

Clear skies BG °¿°



#7 hopskipson

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Posted 15 April 2021 - 04:17 PM

Thanks James.  I watch the Marty stuff but have trouble seeing the settings he's using in the software.  Maybe I'll enlist an assistant with better eyesight.

 

 

Clear skies BG °¿°

It took me a few times to slow it down and pause it so I could write down what he was doing.  Most of the settings will depend on how good the data is that you capture.  Marty has great seeing conditions most of the time he images and he can pull out a lot more detail than most of us.  it takes some practice and sometimes a little luck.


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