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C102-HD

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#26 LDW47

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Posted 27 April 2021 - 04:17 PM

mounted

Are you sure you need a longer dew shield, as you had mentioned ?



#27 droid

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Posted 27 April 2021 - 06:26 PM

on heavy dew nights, yep, my original had a home made one made from dense foam. you certainly don't need one all the time though.



#28 droid

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Posted 27 April 2021 - 06:37 PM

does anyone know what sized those little screws on top are/? or have any advise on redoing a worn focuser?



#29 RAK on Tour

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Posted 28 April 2021 - 10:22 PM

does anyone know what sized those little screws on top are/? or have any advise on redoing a worn focuser?

Those are 1 1/2 mm hex-head screws. Tighten those up gently and you'll remove the slop in the focuser. There have been several threads on how to tune the Synta focuser here on Cloudynights. Once done, you'll find the focuser quite serviceable. 



#30 droid

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Posted 29 April 2021 - 06:03 AM

the focuser issues are being addressed as we speak, 

 

But yeah I did get a 1.5mm hex wrench and snug them down. , the draw tube is off to one side slightly, without a means of accurately measuring how much, Id guess 10 or 15 thousandths?.

 

Not a lot , but every little bit helps. lol

 

I'm also not totally fond of the plastic focuser knobs.

 

I'm investigating options on that front.



#31 Allanbarth1

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Posted 29 April 2021 - 07:03 AM

I've read lots of memorable views have been had through this particular model of refractor. Not to mention it's one of the more sought after models. It's on my want to own list, I'm not sure what allures me to a refractor. Nostalgia, the crisp views or maybe the chase of finding one in good enough condition and affordable for me to someday own. Or it may just be the dream of owning one. 

 

Some day I'll own one. We are so Blessed to have the Cloudy Nights website. A wealth of knowledge and experience is accessible here. Great to be able to read what and how others made theirs even better. Someday I plan to own a Vixen example. I have a Vixen Polaris mount I received from a generous CN member. After a bit of sweat equity, some paint touch up and a like new polar scope I bought here. I have a great mount I want to mount the C102-HD onto someday. 

 

This is a great thread. I'm paying close attention to what your doing so that I'll have an idea what to look for if I even can get my own. Congratulations on finding the C102-HD, I'm looking forward to reading about the views you experience. 



#32 LDW47

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Posted 29 April 2021 - 08:45 AM

the focuser issues are being addressed as we speak, 

 

But yeah I did get a 1.5mm hex wrench and snug them down. , the draw tube is off to one side slightly, without a means of accurately measuring how much, Id guess 10 or 15 thousandths?.

 

Not a lot , but every little bit helps. lol

 

I'm also not totally fond of the plastic focuser knobs.

 

I'm investigating options on that front.

Does the focuser being canted a slight bit this way or that way make any difference in the actual views ? I sure wouldn’t think so, nothing has to be that perfect ! As long as it operates smoothly to your liking. I intentionally let mine slop around and then manually moved it around while viewing and saw no difference in anything.



#33 LDW47

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Posted 29 April 2021 - 08:49 AM

the focuser issues are being addressed as we speak, 

 

But yeah I did get a 1.5mm hex wrench and snug them down. , the draw tube is off to one side slightly, without a means of accurately measuring how much, Id guess 10 or 15 thousandths?.

 

Not a lot , but every little bit helps. lol

 

I'm also not totally fond of the plastic focuser knobs.

 

I'm investigating options on that front.

I bought 6 pairs of Bob’s Knobs and switched out the plastic knobs, they quit making them, they look / work perfectly !



#34 LDW47

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Posted 29 April 2021 - 08:51 AM

I've read lots of memorable views have been had through this particular model of refractor. Not to mention it's one of the more sought after models. It's on my want to own list, I'm not sure what allures me to a refractor. Nostalgia, the crisp views or maybe the chase of finding one in good enough condition and affordable for me to someday own. Or it may just be the dream of owning one. 

 

Some day I'll own one. We are so Blessed to have the Cloudy Nights website. A wealth of knowledge and experience is accessible here. Great to be able to read what and how others made theirs even better. Someday I plan to own a Vixen example. I have a Vixen Polaris mount I received from a generous CN member. After a bit of sweat equity, some paint touch up and a like new polar scope I bought here. I have a great mount I want to mount the C102-HD onto someday. 

 

This is a great thread. I'm paying close attention to what your doing so that I'll have an idea what to look for if I even can get my own. Congratulations on finding the C102-HD, I'm looking forward to reading about the views you experience. 

Even if you find the 80mm model, grab it quick or it will be gone. Sorry I’m talking the pre1996 Vixen built model, I can’t remember if they made a post 1996 80mm HD model !


Edited by LDW47, 29 April 2021 - 08:54 AM.

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#35 RAK on Tour

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Posted 29 April 2021 - 10:28 AM

I've read lots of memorable views have been had through this particular model of refractor. Not to mention it's one of the more sought after models. It's on my want to own list, I'm not sure what allures me to a refractor. Nostalgia, the crisp views or maybe the chase of finding one in good enough condition and affordable for me to someday own. Or it may just be the dream of owning one. 

 

Some day I'll own one. We are so Blessed to have the Cloudy Nights website. A wealth of knowledge and experience is accessible here. Great to be able to read what and how others made theirs even better. Someday I plan to own a Vixen example. I have a Vixen Polaris mount I received from a generous CN member. After a bit of sweat equity, some paint touch up and a like new polar scope I bought here. I have a great mount I want to mount the C102-HD onto someday. 

 

This is a great thread. I'm paying close attention to what your doing so that I'll have an idea what to look for if I even can get my own. Congratulations on finding the C102-HD, I'm looking forward to reading about the views you experience. 

You could also look for the C4-R model, which was made later but has the same optics as the C102-HD, but with a lens cell that can be collimated. That's what I have and I'm very happy with it. The only downside is that the lens cell adds weight at the front of the scope, requiring the tube to be mounted with the focuser lower to the ground unless you add weight at that end.


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#36 LDW47

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Posted 29 April 2021 - 01:29 PM

You could also look for the C4-R model, which was made later but has the same optics as the C102-HD, but with a lens cell that can be collimated. That's what I have and I'm very happy with it. The only downside is that the lens cell adds weight at the front of the scope, requiring the tube to be mounted with the focuser lower to the ground unless you add weight at that end.

How often do you really have to collimate a refractor unless you have badly banged it around ? I have never with my dozen or more.


Edited by LDW47, 29 April 2021 - 02:50 PM.


#37 RAK on Tour

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Posted 29 April 2021 - 11:19 PM

How often do you really have to collimate a refractor unless you have badly banged it around ? I have never with my dozen or more.

The point I was making is that the C4-R has the same optics as the C102-HD, so it is another choice for the person wanting a C102-HD. The C4-R has the advantage of being collimaeable, which would help if you purchase one that HAS been "badly banged around," always a risk when buying used. But, as I pointed out, it has the DISADVANTAGE of being nose-heavy from the extra weight of the collimateable lens cell. 

 

You're right - one doesn't often need to collimateable a refractor. But it's nice to have the ability if it's needed.


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#38 droid

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 11:11 AM

I read a review on the C102-HD that said the newer ones were stopped down by the baffles and an undersized tube.

 

Is there any easy way to check this?



#39 Terra Nova

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 01:14 PM

I read a review on the C102-HD that said the newer ones were stopped down by the baffles and an undersized tube.

 

Is there any easy way to check this?

Could be why the views are said to be so sharp and color well controlled.



#40 LDW47

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 01:45 PM

I read a review on the C102-HD that said the newer ones were stopped down by the baffles and an undersized tube.

 

Is there any easy way to check this?

Show us the review before we answer. The context of the review is important.


Edited by LDW47, 02 May 2021 - 01:47 PM.


#41 droid

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 02:20 PM

https://www.cloudyni...ron-c102hd-r710



#42 droid

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 02:21 PM

https://www.cloudyni...102-hd-baffles/



#43 LDW47

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 02:38 PM

Interesting, maybe you should try and get a hold of these two posters and discuss it all with them, pick their brains if you will.



#44 clamchip

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 02:57 PM

What I usually do is put my eye up near the racked out focuser.

I'll start with my eyeball centered and get a good look at the objective.

I want to see the 3 spacers when my eyeball is centered.

I then move my eye around nearer the edge of the focuser tube and I usually

like to still see the 3 spacers as well as the edge of any baffle(s).

I don't want to see a proud baffle impinging.

And I don't want to see the interior walls of the tube.

 

Robert


Edited by clamchip, 02 May 2021 - 02:57 PM.


#45 droid

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 03:00 PM

With the diagonal, robert?



#46 droid

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 03:05 PM

with the focuser racked all the way out, you can just see all 3 spacers , move even slightly in either direction, 1 disappears.



#47 jwaldo

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 04:18 PM

A trick I've used is to put an eyepiece with small lenses (e.g. a short fl plössl or similar) or even the collimation cap from a newt in the diagonal, with the focuser near or at focus position. Make sure there's some light shining into the eyepiece (pointing it toward the daytime sky or a lamp is enough) then look into the scope from the objective end, and gradually move your head off to the side. If the objective is stopped down by the baffles, you'll see the dot of light from the eyepiece get cut off by the baffle before it reaches the edge of the objective. If it's not, the dot will be visible all the way to the edge of the lens. 

 

As I recall, my C4-R was slightly stopped down by the rearmost baffle. They're held in the tube with friction, so I was able to slide it backward until it was out of the light cone. 


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#48 droid

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 04:55 PM

ok, tried that, it stays visible until almost the edge, then gets cut into.



#49 droid

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Posted 03 May 2021 - 10:34 PM

Thanks to Jon Isaacs , the C102-HD now sports a crayford focuser .

 

As for the baffles stopping down the aperture, after much thought, and talking to a good friend, I've decided to just leave it alone.

 

A very good performing 98mm beats a poorly performing 102mm 

 

Today I ordered a Orion utrablock UHC filter.

 

I continue to work on my second string light weight eyepiece set.

 

All is well in C102 land


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