As long as you do the RA calibration to be sure the scope reticle is centered, you don't need to be concerned about whether the reticle is rotated because you can do a simple RA rotation to put the reticle in the vertical position before spotting polaris at the correct hour angle (I have far better success alinging that way then having to estimate the rotation error which is normally a very imprecise estimate, enter that estimated error into PSA Pro and then rely on PSA's fudge calculation for hour angle placement). Here's the polaris placement method that works the best for me:
- Do the RA calibration which centers the polari scope reticle (normally only needs to be done once when you use that mount the very first time).
- Put Polaris at the center interesection of the reticle's crosshairs.
- Adjust the Alt so that Polaris move to the the top of the reticle ring.
- Rotate RA so that the "0" (or "12") hour mark of the crosshair line intersects Polaris, and then lock the RA in place.
At this point your reticle is in true vertical alignment and you can proceed to change Alt and Azi to place Polaris at the proper hour angle and annular precession ring.
After proper NCP placement, return the scope to home position and do the 2-star alignment. I use an illumated eyepiece on my scope when doing my 2-star alignment (I don't have plate solving, sharpcap, or any other automatic alignment equipment). This ensure very accurate for both stars with essentially zero error doing the fine adjustments to center each star in the FOV during that alignment process.
The RA calibration takes some time to complete, so thankfully it doesn't need to be done each time you use the scope. But the Polaris placement and 2-star processes only take a few minutes at the start of each session.
And using this method I am able to get essentially perfect tracking with no noticeable drift on my EQ6-R Pro. For example, after I finish the above RA calibration, NCP placement on the PS reticle, and 2-star alignment using the illuminated eyepiece, when I hide a star behind the crosshairs of the scope's illuminated eyepiece reticle, that star remains hidden behind the crosshair intersection with zero drift for over an hour with no help from any other hardware or software. And I only use the hand controller because of the effectiveness of having the tactile feel of the slew buttons while I'm making fine adjustments nailing the 2-star alignment while looking through the scope's illuminated eyepiece.
Edited by Brainebula, 13 June 2021 - 11:46 AM.