I'm new to the forum and excited to start imaging milky ways and deep space objects. I have some experience with my Canon 80D, sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 and 150-600mm Contemporary and Skywatcher Star Adventurer Pro. I'm looking to modify an old Canon t3 (1100D) to help with H-alpha sensitivity, both for wide field and deep space.
However, I would still like to be able to use my Canon t3 as a daytime camera, so I've been researching ways of reversing an astromod back to a factory setting. I believe I've figured it out, but seeing as I'm new to this and this could potentially render my camera useless, I would really appreciate it if someone experienced in this field would be able to tell me if I missed any important steps or made any mistakes in my thought process.
I'm interested in performing what I believe is called a Baader mod, or removing LPF-2. I would like to replace LPF-2 with a piece of glass of the same thickness, because I've read that not replacing the glass will render the cameras autofocus useless. I found this piece of glass made by Astronomik : https://www.astronom...100d-1200d.html . Would it work for replacing LPF-2?
I'd also use a clip-in filter to emulate the effect of LPF-2 that was removed. From what I've read, this filter makes an astromodded camera behave as a factory camera, also from Astronomik : https://www.astronom...cd-typ-iii.html . Would this work to replace the function of LPF-2?
I'm interested in getting a light pollution filter and a H-alpha filter. The CLS and UHC seems to be good all-round choices for limiting light pollution, while the H-alpha 12nm seems good for isolating H-alpha. Does anyone have a preference for CLS vs UHC? I live in a Bortle class 7-8 and would do most of my deep sky imaging from my backyard. I guess UHC would be best since it has a narrower pass? For H=alpha, does 6 nm make a huge difference over 12 nm? Are S-II and O-III worth it? Also, with the removal of LPF-2, would I need to purchase normal filters or CCD filters? CCD filters seem to be for cameras without IR-block filters, but my camera would still have LPF-1, which apparently has a little IR-blocking capabilities.
Please let me know if I've missed something in my thought process.