Option 2 is absolutely NO. VERY bad idea. No. Don't go there.
This is great to hear - rules that out right away!
As stated above, don't use resistors to drop the voltages, because that would be an unregulated supply (probably bad for the camera).
For the supplies 1A or less you can use 3 terminal regulators as most of them can handle at least an amp (but be careful, they may need heat sinks to dissipate the power). Usually the voltage is set with resistors or a pot (variable resistor) if it is not a fixed voltage regulator. They make specific 3 terminal regulators for negative voltages. I would get help from an EE or someone who's used regulator IC's before if you have no experience. It' pretty easy to blow up parts, cause shorts, or worse, destroy the camera if you don't know what you're doing.
For the 6-15V you can probably get an inexpensive 12 or 13.8V separate power supply to handle that (most regulators IC's won't be able to supply 3.8A).
Thanks for the suggestions on 3 term regulators - I'll check that out...
If you are going the DIY route, use buck converters off a common power source.
The idea is that you can find these converters and build your own multiple outputs off one single source. They tend to be cheap but you will need to do all the soldering and voltage calibration yourself.
I appreciate these suggestions and your amazon link examples, thanks!
If its still a production camera, I'd seriously look at biting the bullet and buying theirs. Seriously, there is a LOT of work here. The sequencing of the supplies is likely critical, overshoot and under shoot as supplies sequence might destroy the camera.
Truer words are never spoken . Unfortunately, despite my best attempts, as a mere individual (not corporation or research institute), I am unable to get any support from them for this camera - no parts or even information! I have tried to get approval, but no luck. Still checking ebay every day, but have yet to see anything but cameras and sometimes cameras with PSU's. If anyone has an extra Evolve 512 PSU kicking around, PLEASE let me know!
Think carefully if all the effort is worth it, especially for field use.
My Photometrics was not worth the DIY effort, especially since cooling involved a supply of liquid nitrogen. Fantastic research tool, poor field implementation.
Hah, yeah, I hear you. The old ones are much more challenging to work with I think. At least the interface on this one is firewire, so at least somewhat consumable! If it weren't for the darn power supply it would be too easy!
Yup, found the manual here: https://www.photomet...e5120Manual.pdf
That connector is a DB25, which is rather common. However, if you don't have the cable, wiring it will be a pain. The manual says 2009 but it looks like something from the 1990s. I'm not sure it's worth the effort. I doubt you would find software/drivers for anything newer than Windows XP. Even if you do manage to power it and get a proper cable, it seems it needs its own software and the link to the computer is FireWire? It requires an external liquid chiller for -100°C cooling? Are you planning on installing it on a telescope? For 512x512 resolution?
It's nice the include the pinout in the manual though, eh? You can get soldered DB25 adapters so I don't think the wiring will be the hard part for me. They do have drivers and an SDK, so I should be able to get it working on something newer, but worst case, I just set up an XP box for a different Photometrics camera, so I can piggyback off that. Also, my model doesn't require an external chiller as it is air cooled to -85C. As for the 512x512 comment, I hear what you're saying, but the call of lucky imaging for DSO's is real . 90+%QE across visible + almost no read noise (or dark noise at that temp) is nothing to scoff at. May not be going for wide-field here, but sure would be fun for galaxies/pn's.
CCD image sensors with electron multiplying output stages were introduced in 2001. The very low readout noise floor (quantum counting statistical noise is still present) achived with an emccd can be useful when imaging faint objects.
+1 to this!
I read through the manual, looks like an interesting find. As for the power supply, there are DC-DC bricks that you can tie together to generate the voltages. The +37 will be the harder one, not a standard voltage. Probably be easiest to use a dual output 18V (if you can find one), although you may have to homebrew a regulator for the 37V. If you need some help let me know, I've dabbled with power electronics for some time now (day job).
Does this really work? I figured if there was a DC-DC power supply, if I tried to daisy chain the + of one to the - of the other to add the voltage like you would with batteries, it would just short... How can I tell if it short or not? It seems like it would just be like adding 2 sets of wires to each terminal of a battery and hooking the + to the -...
Anyway, from what you folks are saying, it seems like it's a reasonable thing to just get a bunch of smaller regulated power converters and draw all from the same 12V source for each required rail... Thanks all!
Edited by jeffsuth, 28 July 2021 - 01:46 PM.