Alright ladies and gentlemen, finally I found some time to get my hands on my latest FB marketplace acquisition (serial number: 4916)
As I've mentioned - in my case the corrector lens was loose and sliding sideways when I tilted the OTA.
Also the eyepiece and 1.25" diagonal prism were pretty dirty.
So I did not bother to do any optical testing before giving it a full clean and service.
What was done:
- Corrector plate was taken out
- Secondary assembly was taken apart
- Corrector has been washed with everything I had (starting with isopropyl alcohol and then metene lens-wipes, then tryng window wash, Clorox and WD40), but few spots feel like acid-etched and did not go off (see the knife-edge picture - there are few "splatters" on the right side).
- Secondary was washed with isopropyl alcohol spray and metene lens-wipes, looks very clean. Reflective coating has some signs of deterioration, when shining the light from the sides I could see a few tiny holes
- Primary was sitting pretty tight and focuser was operating pretty smooth without backlash. So I did not bother taking it out.
- Primary was not too dirty, with lens air blower I took off some larger dust pieces and with large and ultra-soft makeup brush I took off the rest. It probably would benefit a little more from a full wash, but over all "good enough" condition was not worth the trouble.
- In my case the corrector retained by large threaded ring, which was not to rusted/corroded, so it went off pretty easily.
- Unlike on Gil's videos - corrector was not glued with rubber compound and was shifting sideways when you tilt the tube. I did not notice any residue from the glue either.
- There were cork pads around the permitter of corrector frame, they were pretty packed (hard) and brittle, so did not perform their padding/cushioning function.
- The was an O-ring on secondary assembly to center it in the corrector plate. It does its job not perfect, but fair enough to maintain secondary more or less centered in the correctors elliptical hole. So I did not bother to improve it in any way - just gave a clean to rubber gaskets and put it back toughater.
- To fix two problems of corrector plate cushioning and centering in OTA I've found in my drawer 3 mm thick neoprene pads with sticky adhesive on one side (these came from my phone screen protector installation kit). I've cut them to smaller pieces (5x14 mm) and placed next to existing cork pads all around the permitter.
- Corrector plate went in nicely centered, without any excessive any pressure around its perimeter. The only exception are two pads being moderately compressed on the opposite ends of the larger diameter of the correctors elliptical shape.
- The diagonal and 30 mm eyepiece were fully taken apart and given a good wash - now as good as new. Clean and shiny.
- Finder only needed a wipe of its eyepiece lens and a front objective surface, I did not take it apart - was pretty clean inside.
- The drive is still functional (rotates the scope), however the RA adjustment knob does not. When I roate RA knobn it feels lile there is a stripped off gear on the other end. Since the drive still rotates the fork - I did not bother to take it apart yet, this will be a project for another weekend.
- I gave the OTA preliminary collimation by looking into the OTA from the front (corrector) side with one eye at different distances (3 ft, 5ft, 10ft) and adjusting secondary screws until I could see concentric reflections between its mirrors and baffle.
Things to note:
- Both outer and inner perimeters of the corrector are oval instead of perfectly round.
- There is like 5 mm difference between smallest and larges diameter on outside edge.
- There is roughly ~1.5 mm difference on the inside hole for secondary.
- Outer edge of the corrector is also conical on some its segments.
- I don't know - maybe its a "feature" to be able to center center corrector/secondary against the primary. But anyway - even larger outer diameter were pretty loose against the old cork pads on OTA frame.
- Both edges of corrector (inner and outer) are having quite rough cut, it looks like whoever was trying to get it to circular shape was chipping the sides of the glass by a chisel hit with a brick instead of using proper rotary tools with diamond blades. It is the worst piece of optical manufacturing I've ever seen.
- Much smaller size of the corrector plate than its OTA framing made me think that corrector plate might be not original. I have hard time to believe that the Criterion manufacturing quality was this poor.
- I had a thought that it could have been a piece of flat window glass which previous owner had cut at home to replace original broken corrector. However it does not seem to be the case - putting a ruler to the side of the corrector I could see its tiny figure of the surface (slightly narrower on the outer edge than in the center).
Unfortunately I did not take any pictures during corrector re-assembly/cleaning process, it was quite a bit late and tiring after work to take pictures in the process.
Knife-edge test - you can see two "splatters" on the right side These looks like acid damage to the glass surface of corrector. I can feel the roughness of these by run my fingernail through the surface.
Ignore bright dots - these are specs of dust which I did not manage to remove from outer surface before taking a pic.
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First light and artificial star test
- Friday night in Boston suburbs was a bit cloudy, but I wanted to check the image quality of the scope after rebuilding it.
- I have an artificial star which I made out of high power LED torch light, LED diffusing plastic and 1 mm hole drilled in sheet metal. Placed at 400 ft away it represent quite solid and bright test target which I use primarily to collimate my AT8RC.
- First light at earth target (a building 450 ft away) was above my expectations. I was able to see the wooden texture of a door frame through original diagonal and eyepiece.
- Focusing tilt is horrific, but when you get it right its pretty sharp for the money. It will be a while - but I a pretty sure this old boy is capable to resolve some bands on Jupiter.
- It took a scope around 1 hour 30 min to cool down, until the diffraction rings did not look like a dancing Christmas tree. Then I went back into my apartment to pickup DSLR and a 5 mm Celestron Ultima Duo to capture diffraction rings.
Keep in mind that I live in close Boston suburbs, and my artificial star was on the other side of the parking lot. The flow of hot air from the paved surface and colling off car engines made air a bit jiggly.
But with a series of images you can get the idea of wavefront roughness introduced by the scompe itself.
First pictures with directly attached DSLR (no diagonal, no eyepice, just a T-ring 1.25 adapter between OTA and camera) - these are cropped out diffraction rings at a larger defocusing values.
Resolution of all images (pixel size) is original to my Pentax K5 (no up-sampling or down-sampling, just crops).
Please click on images to get into the gallery and see a full resolution
A series of the shots to get the idea of air turbulence between my artificial star and the scope
Its not a airy-disk you would expect in properly figured optics, its a whole gang of individual manufacturing issues.
Edited by AlMuz, 04 May 2024 - 06:46 PM.