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Observatory roof retrofit to ROR style

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#1 Travellingbears

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Posted 22 August 2021 - 09:35 AM

A year ago (2020) I built a 8x8 split-roof observatory (2020 build) with roof sub-panels moving in north and south directions on sliders attached to 4x4’s beams sitting on top of east and west walls. My original pre-planning had been for conventional ROR with roof on gantry moving to west (inverted v-track rails and v-groove wheels). The permit review requirements (circumstances) made me opt to keep under 64 sq-ft (final footprint was 63+) and I built option with split-roof design to satisfy my backyard imaging.
 

My experience with split-roof design was ‘acceptable’ but in this subsequent year the south sub-panel movement has developed ‘interference’ from a crepe myrtle on side of my observatory. In past 18-months it has grown 4-ft and now has finally blossomed after proper arborist care. Wife gets compliments from neighbors on foliage so I was doomed when I approached wife about ‘trimming’ the sucker to free up my roof’s motion. I ‘countered’ with proposal that I modify roof to ROR on gantry going to west. This puts low concrete piers/posts at locations in wife’s bushes but gantry rails (over 6’) easily clear the 4’ high shrubs (already at max height/growth). The wife was agreeable and ‘negotiations’ were complete. Town considerations were satisfied when described as attached garden ‘pergola’ on side of my ‘shed’. I chose to avoid mention of ‘functionality’ (ROR) in brief narrative and there were no complicating questions to answer. 
 

Would I have been contemplating design retrofit for technical reasons? No. To improve my horizon viewing experience? Not my first method since raising pier height would be easier approach under my circumstances. I had mid-30’s degree horizon views with existing walls and pier height arrangement. My parked height (OTA in horizontal) was at 60-61” and mid-roof height was at low 80”s. So additional 16-18” space is available if I wanted to increase pier height via short pier extension (or add concrete height at base) to ‘peek’ over walls. I have lower surrounding landscape to E/SE/S which increases 0-5-10-15 degrees as move clockwise. The rest of the ‘compass sweep’ is at 25-35 degrees due to surrounding houses/trees.

 

Dave

 

The picture below shows the final day (Aug 3) with original split roof where the crepe myrtle’s presence against end of south roof is visible at edge.

 

Last day photo of my Split-Roof configuration
 
The ‘demo’ had begun (Aug 4) and the two sub-panels of the split-roof are on the ground.
 
Split roof has been removed - ready for ROR renovation

 


Edited by Travellingbears, 22 August 2021 - 11:10 AM.

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#2 Travellingbears

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Posted 22 August 2021 - 09:45 AM

The view of observatory (looking East) without roof.

 

Renovation in progress (roof removed)
 

My next task was ‘stripping’ the sub-panels of the framing supports used with split-roof so that the roof panels can be reused. I had used 1/2” deck board with weathergard ice shield, 30# felt and Onduvilla asphalt shingles. In pic from Aug 8 the ‘‘observatory hound’ is wondering why his yard is cluttered with roof panels. 

 

Mid-Renovation with old split-roof disassembled

Edited by Travellingbears, 22 August 2021 - 10:37 AM.


#3 Travellingbears

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Posted 22 August 2021 - 10:23 AM

The gantry rails and posts are 4x4 pressure treated ground contact rated wood. My frost line at Maryland shore is a modest 30”. Post holes were dug (8” diameter at 32” depth) working with my Ryobi 40V auger and post-hole digger. Used my 1.6 CY mixer with 80-lb bags to pour and stuck 12” sections of 8” diameter sonotube at top of hole (leaving 3-4” above grade). I set 1/2” galvanized 12” long L-bolts in wet concrete. The posts were secured to concrete footer using raised (1” clearance) Simpson Strong-Tie post bases. Coated the cut-ends of posts and up 6” from ends with Thompson water seal.

 

Pic from Aug 19 after pour.

 

Observatory renovation in-progress
 
Pic from Aug 20 with roof sub-panels relocated off backyard grass and leaning against north wall of observatory. Top of sonotube has been stripped away and Simpson post base set.
 
ROR retrofit in-progress
 
Pic from Aug 21 with gantry posts installed. Have 2x6 across span and checking level (0.1 degree slope). 
 
Checking gantry rail level for ROR

 

 


Edited by Travellingbears, 22 August 2021 - 10:39 AM.

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#4 Travellingbears

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Posted 22 August 2021 - 01:39 PM

I had purchased some Aleko steel inverted v-track rail along with AR920 motor and 13-ft of gear track back in early 2020 before my plans changed and went to split-roof with sliders. I needed to buy another 12-ft kit for rail since I was a few feet short. Unfortunately FedEx pulled my package aside as QC problem this past Friday (open box/damaged) and it was also missing anchor bolt set (which I wouldn’t use). It was automatically returned to Aleko without giving me option to examine or accept delivery under waiver. I was told by FedEx customer service to contact the shipper for resolution. Aleko will only send replacement under routine 3-5 day ship after they can verify FedEx started return. To maintain progress I have 6-ft section and a cut piece which I can mock up temporarily on south observatory wall and move along south gantry beam to match up ‘spacing/alignment’ distance with completed rail on north wall/gantry beam. Then can attach that short span of rail on south wall of observatory area as wheel ‘guides’ while setting rolling frame /roof in place over 8x8 observatory enclosure. Always an inconvenience or challenge…

 

I’m expecting several decent days this week so I hope to start mounting framing skeleton to the ‘re-purposed’ roof panels and get 4 wheels (two per side) installed so I can get things moving along. I selected 4” polyurethane (300-lbs rated) v-groove wheels to be quiet on steel tracks when roof is moving at night (minimize potential neighbor grumbling about squeaky/noisy wheels).

 

Dave


Edited by Travellingbears, 22 August 2021 - 01:41 PM.


#5 Travellingbears

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Posted 24 August 2021 - 07:45 PM

I left the last 6-ft of south gantry without rail until my replacement package arrives from Aleko (got email with FedEx tracking number today). I was pretty confident of spacing of rails over observatory walls and was ready to build the 4-wheeled ‘roof mover’ skeleton that I would use to re-attach salvaged roof panels from my previous split-roof arrangement. So I’ve been concentrating on getting the basic rolling frame fabricated ready and it got ‘up’ today. I still need to attach some framing to it before roof panels go back on but that work can be done from 6-ft ladder from within observatory. From my previous experience (working solo) I’m able to maneuver roof panels while on the ground but plan to wait and re-install when second set of hands (‘helpful muscle’) is available. 
 

Dave

 

Starting on rolling frame for ROR

.


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#6 Travellingbears

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Posted 31 August 2021 - 09:55 AM

In last week I’ve purchased and installed two additional 4” wheels which were added at mid-span between existing pair on each side. I feel more confident about weight distribution now. The additional Aleko inverted rail (needed another 6’) should arrive today by FedEx so I can complete work on south gantry beam quickly. 

 

With ROR moving west onto gantry I’ll have east ‘end’ of moving roof over west wall of observatory. I didn’t allocate extra length for gantry in yard to roll off an extra 1-2 ft due to surrounding landscape. When looking to west (unobstructed by walls etc) my surrounding horizon starts at 25 degrees due to increasing grade of landscape from shoreline (presence of houses, trees). My best scenario is roof design/profile (when stopped at open position over west wall position) which doesn’t further minimize (‘complicate’) viewing from the pier. I had experience with my previous split-roof design profile (high mid-ridge retracting towards outer walls) ‘adding’ to obstruction of views within my small 8x8. I’ve decided that least ‘annoying’ orientation for new ROR roofline would be sloping shed roof (2:12) profile with low end (drip-edge) at east and high point (+16”) of slope at west wall when closed. So high end moves out over end of gantry when opened and drip-edge is over west wall when opened. 

 

In previous split-roof configuration on sliders I had used 65” (north) and 52” (south) panels to offset midline ridge towards south. My logic had desire to park scope in more ‘upright’ position (paramount’s home) and had no concerns since panels retracted (never smacked OTA). In new ROR arrangement I’m going to use horizontal orientation (equivalent orientation of A-P mount ‘park 4’) which puts scope at 60-61 at current pier height (34” above floor) and roofline is expected to be about 80-81 inside. This gives me room to increase pier height as ‘phase 2’ after ROR conversion is finished.

 

To ‘mend’ into a single-panel roof for 8x8 I’d want final length a bit longer for overhang. I took the longer ‘north’ and removed top layer of shingles. Then I cut off 8” of deck to expose underlying 2x4. On ‘south’ I removed bottom 2x4 and drip-edge. The plan is to flip ‘south’ 180 to align pattern of shingles and slide on top of exposed 2x4 of ‘north’. The 2x4 rafters on ‘south’ were originally applied in flat orientation (to give better clearance for scope). I’ll add a few 2x4 pieces oriented in ‘normal’ upright direction screwed to existing flat 2x4 on ‘south’ to enhance attachment between panel pieces. I’d have to loosen screw fasteners at bottom row of ‘south’ shingle panel to tuck a row of shingles and then re-secure.

 

I’ve got 1-Ton mechanical come-along lever (15:1) with 12-ft wire cable and chains/straps to get heavy components into air onto gantry and then to drag over onto rolling frame. I can get second set of hands to help get pieces screwed into place on rolling frame. Due to weight of individual panels I’m thinking of hoisting the ‘north’ panel into ‘straddling’ position on the gantry rail beams in its final orientation with drip-edge to east and exposed 2x4 pointing west but leave laying flat. Then lift the ‘south’ panel (laying flat) and slide the end where removed drip-edge over the exposed 2x4 of the ‘north’. Thinking that having the two panels laying flat and pre-positioned at 6’+ resting over rails will be easier plan to assemble two parts (where I can access from below). I can use ladder to add shingles where needed. 

 

Hoping to get panels lifted over Labor Day weekend. Photo below from this past weekend.

 

Dave

 

ROR retrofit in progress - Aug 29 pic


#7 Travellingbears

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Posted 02 September 2021 - 07:39 PM

Today I got motivated and lifted the old ‘north’ roof panel and left it straddling the gantry rails for the night. I’ll slide it back into place on rolling roof frame on Friday. I can follow similar process and lift the ‘south’ roof panel onto gantry. I had been working solo going ‘back and forth’ cranking and pushing for 25-30 minutes as roof inched up when one of my helpful neighbors got home. Then took another 5-minutes to finish up (he cranked and I lifted/pushed). Second set of hands was very convenient.

 

Dave

 

pics from today showing setup and results at end of day

 

Lifting roof panel today
 
Roof panel lifted and straddling gantry before final mounting


#8 Travellingbears

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Posted 03 September 2021 - 07:18 PM

Needed to add layer of 2x4 and accurately measure spacing for the Simpson saddle rafter brackets and install on east end of framing to receive the old ‘north’ roof panel. Then rearranged the pow’r-pull and straps and wrenched north panel which was left straddling gantry rails last night. Got it within a foot of final position when my other helpful neighbor got home. He was skeptical of my measurements for rafter tie bracket alignments on framing (I had checked several times). We just needed to lift and shift panel to south a bit to align and it dropped in properly. For the night I left panel with desired drip-edge exposure and a single screw in each rafter tie so it could rotate/pivot up/down. Will work with ‘south’ panel on Saturday to add necessary 2x4 pieces and then ‘lift’ to straddling position on gantry rails. Plan will be to join up the two roof panels when pull ‘south’ panel over onto rolling frame later this weekend. 
 

Naturally I’ll need to go to local Home Depot on holiday weekend to buy some additional pieces of framing lumber, trim/fascia boards for roof (and of course I’m running out of screws and Simpson brackets). It looks like good weather thru mid-September so I’m more motivated to finish up and get the scope back in observatory.

 

Dave

 

Pic from end of today with a roof panel resting on the rolling roof frame (progress).

 

Roof panel on rolling frame


#9 Travellingbears

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Posted 07 September 2021 - 09:02 PM

I still haven’t added the second roof panel of the old split-roof set since I keep finding other things to fine-tune first. I had decided to inset primary wheels 15” from ends to allow more extension of load past end of gantry stops since I didn’t allocate ‘space’ for longer beams. I had noticed potential for flexure in the 2x6 so I decided to buy two more wheels and add mid-span position. I also made choice to double plate over wheels (ended up using 2x4 over the 2x6). Had to reinforce at corners with Simpson strong-tie brackets and a lot more screws in areas where double-plated. I have been pre-planning to do counter-lift with angle-iron pieces similar to technique I see done in BYO builds. Wanted to get all my v-groove wheels sitting reliably on rail thru-out their journey along Aleko inverted rail sections before I complicated my life by adding uplift constraints. I started out within 1/2” end-to end over the several Aleko rail segments. I ‘developed patience’ and fixed where all wheels stay mid-rail (vs riding edge) and I can push the roof with one hand. My next challenge was that rafters from old split-roof were 4 to 5 ft (not full span length for my 8x8). I decided to install a 4x4 cross-beam with rafter ties fitting the four partial length 2x4 rafters. This provides a solid tie-in point with load bearing where I join the two old roof panels. Hope to get the other panel mounted in next few days. Here are a few recent pics below.

 

Dave

 

closeup of roof framing showing 4x4 support

 

Roof renovation pic showing span support
 
roof open with view to west (one roof panel installed) 
 
View towards west during roof ROR renovation
 
side view of gantry with roof open (one roof panel installed)
 
ROR mid-renovation pic

Edited by Travellingbears, 07 September 2021 - 09:03 PM.


#10 Travellingbears

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Posted 08 September 2021 - 07:30 PM

Today I cut four 48” 2x4 ‘extension’ rafters and screwed in 10” overlap position with existing rafters. This gives the profile length needed to support the remaining deck/shingle panel left to be installed. I still need to frame up the connecting cross-bracing and vertical supports at the west end of the rolling frame before transferring the roof panel. I did go ahead and ‘ratchet lift’ the remaining roof panel (old ‘south’ panel from split roof) and leave it straddling the gantry rails with support beams. My wife was home and provided ‘extra set of hands’ today to crank the ratchet while I lifted roof panel. Hopefully will have second panel shifted into place by Friday or Saturday. Pics below from end of day.

 

Dave

 

ROR renovation in-progress
 
side view
 
ROR renovation in process side view

 


Edited by Travellingbears, 08 September 2021 - 07:42 PM.

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#11 OldManSky

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Posted 09 September 2021 - 12:41 PM

OK, don’t hate me, but...is it too late to re-think the orientation of the roof pitch? I only mention it because with the pitch facing the way you have it, pitched down into the open observatory, on dewy nights it will drain into the inside...



#12 Travellingbears

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Posted 09 September 2021 - 05:03 PM

Paul 

 

My ‘best’ option for condensation ‘drainage’ would have been to have left roof’s outward appearance similar to my original split-roof with N-S drip edges and high mid-point (3:12 pitch). Then moving west on gantry would have limited concern with nighttime drainage into observatory and load on gantry rails could be evenly distributed (if I cut/sliced old panels to make equal size - they were about 60:40). This was my ‘original plan’ and then a carpenter friend suggested that I flip a section and combine parts into a slanting roof.

 

I saw a solution (British observatory build) where observatory roof had attached gutter (moved with roof and had downspouts at ‘open’ and closed’ positions). I may ‘improvise’ and add a drainage channel/gutter. I did this orientation with fore-knowledge that it would potentially have challenges.

 

I chose not to do N-S or S-N wedge since I wasn’t certain if roof height difference/framing load (center of balance) on rails would make roof difficult to roll. Going E-W or W-E would be ‘equal’ (side to side) on rails but shifted weight to end of gantry or towards observatory depending on location of high end. I probably could have experimented and compensated (‘counterweighted’) if load balance were issue. I’ll try to MacGyver a long drip-pan (bending 8” aluminum roll flashing) and add drain-tube under the ‘drip-edge’ location as quick fix when I get operational if condensation from roof gets best of me. 

Thanks for the suggestions! I need all the help that I can get.

 

Dave


Edited by Travellingbears, 09 September 2021 - 05:08 PM.

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#13 Travellingbears

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Posted 10 September 2021 - 09:05 PM

I needed to complete high side wall (west end) for rolling roof. I used 4x4 for cross-beam and 4x4 block vertical supports. The 2x4 rafters were secured in Simpson saddle rafter brackets which sit in the 4x4 cross-beam. For positioning of the second roof panel (straddling the gantry) I chained the pow’r-pull to east wall of rolling frame and the 12-ft cable to strapped roof panel. Once I got the edge of roof lip up to tip of rafters (by lifting and ratcheting patiently) I called on my wife for a quick 5-minutes in the observatory area. She cranked the lever and I lifted at my end from the ladder. The roof got stuck once while sliding (exposed nails in deck board hitting rafters) and I needed to insert long 2x4 for leverage to free it. 
 

My current state at end of day is that I need to slide upper section over a few inches to properly align with lower section and then add Simpson straps to join two halves. I’ve got roofing underlayment (weatherguard and 30# felt) to add at seam between two halves. Should be able to apply row of shingles between the two halves and then will appear fine. I don’t re-apply the shingle verge (side/edge) pieces until I get new board for side profiles and get my ‘lift-restraint’ done. Haven’t thought out if any special look for the ‘west’ wall (high wall face).

 

Dave

 

prep for today’s roof move

Prep for sliding roof panel into place
 
pow’r-pull setup
Pow’r-pull used to move roof panel
 
view to west awaiting roof move
View out west as get ready to pull roof into place
 
second panel (rough positioned)
Second panel added to rolling roof

Edited by Travellingbears, 10 September 2021 - 09:05 PM.

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#14 Travellingbears

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Posted 13 September 2021 - 12:00 PM

I did make some progress over the weekend to wrap up this phase of my ‘roofing’ task in ROR retrofit. To summarize I got the upper roof panel repositioned to my satisfaction and the compulsory shingle work completed.

 

Added exterior polyurethane glue under extension rafters to bond to decking of upper panel. I had adequate alignment/proximity between ‘old’ upper panel rafters or upper deck’s flat 2x4 end pieces to allow cross-connect with screws and Simpson tie brackets to the four new ‘extension rafters’.

 

The next step involved water-proofing the seam between the two panels by adding 12” strip of weatherguard/30# felt. Onduvilla shingles install with 3-1/2” screws so process is relatively easy. In my previous split-roof configuration I applied weatherguard as first layer to deck (before felt) for complete height. I had to ‘unscrew’ the lowest row of shingles on upper panel and slip shingles out to get to area of the deck below. I brushed deck area clean and then laid strip of weatherguard overlapping the existing weatherguard (but slipped under felt). It’s adhesive backed product so technique is to start from one end and slowly peel the backer away as you’re pressing into place. I’d needed to shorten my old ‘north’ panel from split-roof configuration (from 5 rows high to about 4-3/4) to create 8x8 sloping roofline and just flipped ‘as-is’ (4 rows high) the old ‘south’ panel. To compensate for change in full ‘height’ rows I reduced ‘reveal’ by 1” starting at bottom row of shingles being reinserted on upper panel and for new row below it on lower panel for esthetics.

 

I included photo taken from 2nd floor of our house this morning to see the shingle pattern after panels were joined. Now I need to find my way back to home improvement store for 4x8 sheets to utilize for sides and get my ‘counter-lift’ done soon.

 

Dave

 

ROR roof after ‘joining’ two panels during renovation

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#15 ssagerian

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Posted 17 September 2021 - 08:50 AM

Looking good!



#16 Travellingbears

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Posted 17 September 2021 - 12:50 PM

Steve: Thanks for the encouragement. 
 

I made trip to local Sneade’s (Ace hardware) on Wednesday afternoon to pick up 1/2” sheet of pressure-treated 4x8 to cover sides of slant roof, 6” roll of flashing and other items. Since we’ve had muggy conditions and rain I haven’t cut-up 4x8 to mount roof side pieces. With upper roof panel now secured and roof within 75-100 lbs of its final weight I could still ‘hand roll’ out onto the gantry. No obvious center of balance issues with high end of roof hanging over 1-ft at end of gantry.

I have single 2x4 cross-beam added at mid-span distance (3.5 ft) along gantry rails that was added specifically to provide supporting ‘contact point’ (and top of west wall was other) when I was lifting and sliding roof panels up and across ‘open space’ between gantry rails. I didn’t intend for 2x4 at mid-span to be ‘primary’ cross-bracing between rails. I’m at point where I need to add cross-beam reinforcements and 45-degree supports at more typical location (where my set of vertical posts are located). I used 4x4 posts for gantry rails and my vertical supports sitting on concrete piers. I’m considering if I need additional stiffness since I didn’t use 4x6 gantry beams and should glue/screw 2x4 to side of beams. 

The weather is drying out so will get busy again. 

 

Dave



#17 Travellingbears

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Posted 24 September 2021 - 03:12 PM

Since last post I managed to cut the ‘wedge’ shaped pieces for the north and south faces of roof and get those mounted. I have counter-lift completed on observatory ‘north wall’ (interlocking angle-iron) and just need to add angle iron pieces on side of north gantry 4x4 rail. The ‘south wall’ counter-lift should be completed over next few days since weather should remain favorable.

 

Dave

 

pic looking at north wall with roof opened a bit to expose angle-iron of counter-lift. I used 6-ft section of 2x8 screwed to side of my rolling frame and reinforced with Simpson angle brackets. The angle-iron pieces are 1-1/2” x1-1/2” in 6-ft lengths. This is same functional idea that I’ve seen used in BYO builds but I’ve ‘flipped’ to have on inner face of rolling frame

 

ROR retrofit - counter-lift design pic
 
 
looking from NE corner on 6-ft ladder down along axis of 2x8 to check clearances of the angle-iron pieces (everything was good)
 
Roof counter-lift - pic of interlocking angle-iron

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#18 Travellingbears

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 06:43 PM

In past 10-days I’ve done a few miscellaneous tasks but most significant was getting the Aleko 900 motor mounted on outer face of west wall and the gear track attached to 2x4 framing support. I had used this motor previously with split-roof configuration but noticed problems overcoming resistance when attached at one side/end. I decided in ROR retrofit that I’d setup differently with motor at mid-span position rather than at side wall. I won’t smack my head into gear track since it’s at 6’6” (I’m 6’2”).  With PW14 parked in horizontal position (60-61” at current pier height) having 78” will allow me to add at least 12-14” to pier height which will benefit my horizon views on E/SE/S.  I had rough-positioned the magnetic ‘end of travel’ sensors along gear track to correspond with the wheel ‘hard stop’ positions to minimize cavitation of motor (‘torque’ resistance). Better to ‘stop’ by sensor than ‘crunch’ into wood block to stop. 
 

Over the next two weeks I will get to substantial completion (‘dried in’) where I can move to next phase. I need to get the west wall of roof covered (plywood, R1 foam, tyvek and Hardie) now that the motor is installed. Still need to get the Hardie panel pieces cut and placed over the tyvek on side ‘wedges’. Will cut pvc panel strips to hide the wheels and finish off lower ‘skirt’. Need to do ‘touch up’ on Onduvilla shingles (add verge pieces and front). I still need to finish off the counter-lift angle-iron and add the remaining cross-beams and 45-degrees onto gantry. Hoping in next month or so to add a gutter under drip-edge end of roof with two downspout (east and west) to catch rain off roof (when roof closed) and redirect condensation (keep out of observatory interior) when roof is open.

 

Dave 

 

I posted a quick public video link (iCloud) taken today of roof in motion

 

Aleko motor on observatory wall
 

Edited by Travellingbears, 04 October 2021 - 06:54 PM.

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#19 Travellingbears

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Posted 10 October 2021 - 08:08 AM

I decided to work on the gantry cross-beam support since I had noticed some vibration in 4x4 posts when testing roof motor. In my build I added 2x4 on both sides of my 4x4 vertical posts and also added 2x4 diagonals. I saw version of this technique used in pics of BYO builds so I was willing to try out. I noticed less vibration afterwards. I also removed the ‘temporary’ mid-span 2x4 on gantry rails that I’d placed as ‘base-support’ when I was lifting re-modeled roof sections across open span of gantry rails.
 

I had bought 6-ft sections of 1.5x1.5 angle iron from Home Depot for ‘interlocking’ with uplift control solution. Since pieces are untreated steel my plans had included adding rust-preventative coating when I had nice weather. The angle iron piece attached to my 2x8 on rolling roof frame had been 1.5x1.5 but I decided to swap to 3x2 size (3” side on face of 2x8) to allow screw attachment further from edge of board and also to move down 1/4” to increase space/gap between the interlocking angle iron pieces. The two 6-ft sections of 3x2 were ordered from an online metals supplier and recently arrived by UPS but haven’t test-fitted or pre-drilled the 3x2 yet. On Saturday I pulled my 1.5x1.5 angle iron off the north wall and added the 3x2 to my painting prep (wiped steel and cleaned with mineral spirits). I got the first cost of Rustoleum on those four pieces. I chose ‘aluminum’ color in oil-based rust-preventative. Still need to clean/prep and paint the additional 1.5x1.5 pieces to fit on side of gantry rails. Bought 2-quarts but looks like I’ll not open second can. Maybe I’ll use extra to ‘refresh’ the look on Aleko inverted rails when they need it.

 

Dave

 

pic after updating cross-beam support on gantry end-posts 

 

ROR retrofit with support beams added
 
angle iron after first coat
 
Counter-lift rails (angle-iron) drying after painting

 


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#20 Astrola72

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Posted 10 October 2021 - 10:13 AM

Looking good, Dave. And man, I envy you your location! I love the bay. I have a good friend who owned a property on the eastern shore. We spent a lot of time there, but, alas, she had to let it go and I couldn't afford it. frown.gif



#21 Travellingbears

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Posted 10 October 2021 - 12:44 PM

Joe

 

We relocated from Arlington VA to Chesapeake Beach a bit over four years ago since my wife wanted the Bay view. Being away from shore weather conditions you probably experience better viewing conditions at your location.
 

When do you expect to start framing your new larger observatory? I read your CN post that ‘demo’ of smaller shed was done.

 

Dave



#22 Astrola72

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Posted 10 October 2021 - 12:50 PM

Dave -

 

This is heresy, but I'd give up AP for a place on the bay. I know that's a false dichotomy but that's how much I love the bay. As for my little project, it was supposed to start this weekend. That flew out the window. Life can be so interfering. Perhaps tomorrow.

 

Joe



#23 Travellingbears

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Posted 10 October 2021 - 03:07 PM

Joe

 

Being retired and having the project in the backyard has given me the ‘flexibility’ to get to tasks as my motivation and weather allow. Look forward to seeing photos of your build.

 

Dave



#24 Travellingbears

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Posted 12 November 2021 - 09:34 PM

In last month I’ve been whittling away at remaining items on punch-list for ROR functionality. As of this week I’m at 90% (with mostly cosmetic items left to complete) so I decided to get scope back on pier today. The ‘phase 2’ (increasing pier height) changes haven’t occurred yet. The scope when parked horizontally is at 61”. Internal ceiling minimum clearance is now 78” (lowest point is above pier area/central gear track rail). My North & South wall clearances are 74”. East wall clearance is effectively 76” (+4” panel added to top of wall plate) and motorized slant roof moves West onto gantry beams. At West wall (when roof is open fully), effective wall clearance is shingles on sloped roof (82”).
 

Dave

 

Pic shows scope in equivalent of AP ‘park 4’ position. View looking towards north/east walls.

 

PW14 is back on ME-II after ROR retrofit
 
Pic shows scope in equivalent of AP ‘park 4’ position. View looking towards south/west walls.
 
ROR open view of south/west wall

 

Pic taken showing scope peeking out over north wall. ROR is open on gantry to west.
 
PW14 peeking out of new ROR

 


Edited by Travellingbears, 12 November 2021 - 09:50 PM.

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